I am from Amalia ,SOUTH AFRICA. I'VEgot a H&R 1900,and i can find no way to remove the firing-pin. I sanded the location where a dowl-pin or screw should be but cant find traces of a screw or dowl-pin arround the trigger area! Can someone please assist me with this? Thanks.
There should be a slotted screw on top of the receiver to hold the firing pin in. I would soak it for a few days with Kroil or some other type of good penetrating oil. It is not unusual for the head to be boogered. It could also be wrung off. They are too small for a screw extractor. You could drill it out if the head is gone starting with a very small bit. You may even have to re-tap it to a different thread..
@@stephencarmichael5156 yes, I seen that. I also seen where another company is starting to make the Contender again. I always wanted a Contender, just never found the right deal.
Started off with a Palmetto State Armory Dagger frame. You should be able to get them on sale various times of the year for $49.99. I purchased a Lone Wolf Alpha Wolf barrel for a G32. If you are on a budget Bear Creek Arsenal have their barrels cheaper. This was something I found out after the fact. I changed the rear ejector housing with a Glock 23 3rd Generation replacement. I think I purchased mine thru Midway. The recoil guide rod and spring is a 20lb NDZ. The Dagger probably has an 18lb spring like a G19. The slide parts kit is just something I picked up on eBay. I think it is Alpha One. It has a Glock G23 extractor that I purchased. I am running a Rock Slide G23 slide. The G23 and G32 have the same barrel profile diameter which is larger than a G19. You can pick up used Gen 3 G23 slides pretty cheap. I did purchase used Glock 32 mags, but I was told that .357 Sig will run in G23 mags. I have not tried this, but you can get followers from the GlockStore. The optic was something I picked up on sale from PSA awhile back. The sights are cheap (aluminum) Tru-Glo knock offs from eBay. I just use them as fillers for the front post hole and rear dovetail. I think that is about everything.
@@2aaaazzzthe .357 Sig surprised me. It is fast enough that it cracks like a rifle on report. Expensive to shoot, but I got free ammo before building it, lol.
@@joshuaselby8744 I am running an aftermarket Glock 23 slide. The Glock 32 and 23 models have the same diameter which is larger than the Glock 19 and PSA Dagger.
what happened to the next savage auto refurbish? its half ass videoing not to finish a series..I assume it was over your head and talent. proof you wont make it making videos
@@josephdobkoy1556 it actually went good. Will try to get a video up shooting it soon hopefully. The .357 sig surprised me. It has a crack like rifle on the report.
Just recently thought of this idea aswell on my dagger frame. Havent made any moves yet financially tho. What internals did you use on the slide? Let us know how she shoots man really intrested!!! Stay dangerous brother🙏🏼
I would say that bottom beaver tail gripped one is a 315. Notice pin positions that hold the hammers and cocking lever legs. Gun looks just like my early post riverside springfield marked 20.
Very good observation. I actually picked another 12 gauge up identical to the second one (5100) since this video for $200 since this video. I also have a 530a and a 335, both of them in 12 gauge as well. I am hoping to find a 20 gauge one day in my travels. Great old guns. My son has developed an appreciation for them too.
@@tyedyepicker1971 What is that one branded? Is it stevens, riverside, or Springfield? Cant tell from the vid and nearing 60 years old, my eyes don’t help much either. Those beaver tailed fore grips are always on the older of the guns. The 315 eventually morphed into the 311, but there are differences. Makes getting correct parts a bit of a chore. Good deal on the new snag. Enjoy them all 👍🙂
@@serpent6710 It is branded as a Stevens. It is a 311a. I really did not take much time to really dig deep on them yet. Things around here and at work go thru spurts. They say you can date them by a letter code. I would be interested in getting the years narrowed down a little.
Yes, 380 acp is very easy to find. FMJ ammo is about $16 for 50 rounds. We did just shoot this pistol last week. It ran excellent with no issues. It was surprisingly accurate.
I actually keep three shells handy in my pocket. My dad taught me to place them in my my offhand in between my fingers. With a strong automatic ejector you can reload pretty fast.
my mom has two of these brand new in box and the lorcin L25. only found out once we cracked into her safe that she lost the keys too. Cool little firearms especially the chrome/black combo.
Sir, many thanks for the video on your Colt Police Positive Special (PPS), chambered in .32-20 caliber. In pre-WW 2 times, the 1920's to early 1940's, there was considerable interest in the .32-20 cartridge. The Winchester lever-action rifle was chambered for this caliber, as well as Colt and Smith & Wesson with their revolver offerings. There were originally two types of .32-20 ammo in those given times. One type was for the rifle, it was loaded hotter, and the other type was for the medium frame revolvers of Colt and Smith & Wesson. It was a milder cartridge than the former. Farmers, hunters, rural county cops, and county prison guards utilized the services of the .32-20 Colt PPS or the S&W M&P revolvers. The .32-20 was a very flat shooting round. Talented shooters of that time were amazed at the accuracy of the .32-20, whether rifle or revolver, the results the same, very accurate. There was less "muzzle flip" shooting the .32-20 Colt PPS, as opposed to shooting the .38 Special PPS from the same type revolver chambered in .38 Special. Nowadays we laugh at any claims of recoil coming from a .38 revolver, but out of a lightweight frame Colt, there is some recoil.. Bank guards in rural towns could also be found with .32-20 six-guns in their holster. After WW 2 ended, there seem to be less interest in .32-20 revolvers, with exception to the Colt Single Action. Several years ago, while reading a gun magazine, I came across an article about the .32-20 and the guns chambered for it. There was a story about a hunter who ran across a very elderly man walking the well traveled trail in the mid-west portion of America. The hunter was not hunting that day, but carried a .357 Python as insurance against two-legged varmints and bears. He met this gentleman on the trail and they struck up a conversation while hiking together. He found out the gentleman had been a sheriff in a distant county of the country. He went on to say that he carried only one gun for the duration of his terms as sheriff. That gun was a Colt Single-Action,with a 4 5/8th inch barrel, and chambered in .32-20 caliber. He happened to be carrying that same gun on his person, for the same reason. The hunter asked permission to look-see the gentleman's ordnance. A well worn single-action Colt and chambered in.32-20 and if the gents story was fake, he went to a lot of trouble for it. He told the hunter that in his 3-terms as Sheriff, he only used it once on a human, several times on wild animals that had been struck by a automobile, but was still alive, beyond medical help. The .32-20 has a great American history to it. Thanks again for you video!
Yeah, I have collected a few 32-20's thru the years. This is actually my 5th revolver. I have a Colt New Army, a Police Positive, a Smith Hand Ejector, and an original Colt single action (1896 serial number) all chambered in 32-20. Unfortunately, I never have fired any of them. It is hard to find anywhere to shoot in my area anymore and ranges are expensive.
My granddad gave me aH&R 20GA. And I had hunted rabbits and squirrels with it when I was 10 all I know about it is that it's used and was used when he got it coming home from WW2 and it still shoots like a champ I'll give it to my grandson someday it 😮 reblued
@@backwoodshunter6274 try gunparts corp. Ebay generally has them too. I have an old Riverside (Stevens) single barrel that I made a lug out of a piece of 3/8 drill rod. I drilled and tapped it then silver solder it to the barrel. I made that forearm fixed by a screw like later single barrels. It was cheaper than a replacement forearm.
@@tyedyepicker1971 thanks for the info. I found a whole forearm assembly on eBay. 90 bucks after shipping. Way more than what I wanted to spend on one but it's the only one I found so didn't really have a choice.
@@backwoodshunter6274 Yeah, unfortunately it goes that way sometimes. I have spent more repairing some guns than they are worth, but I do it as a hobby and hobbies cost money. Fitting that stock blank on it was a nightmare, but it was a lot cheaper than ordering one. I have another just like this one that needs wood as well. I bought it about 10 years ago. Well, actually I bought a newer H&R from a friend and he thru it in for free. I may go thru it one day. Too many projects and not enough time!
I have a L380 I'm fixing up. I've looked everywhere to find out how to replace the extractor, the extractor pin and the extractor spring... How do you get the pin out? Can you clue me in?
You should be able to drive the pin out with a small punch. I would drive from the bottom to the top. This holds the extractor and extractor spring in place. The extractor spring sets in a pocket. It will be a little aggravating reinstalling it due to the spring pressure in lining the retaining pin back up. It is easier to male a slave pin out of a tooth pick.
@@tyedyepicker1971 Not trying to be difficult, but looking at the inside of the slide, there is no hole to drive the pin up through the top. If cleaned the whole inside of the slide and don't see anything there (hole)I can see it from the top, so I eyeballed it to underneath and no sight...
@@papitaz381 okay, I looked it up. Some of the Lorcin's were shipped with the extractor pin that is no accessible from the underside. That leaves you about 3 options: 1. Cut the extractor lengthwise with a Dremel cut off wheel carefully to gain access to the pin and work it out the top with a small screwdriver. That maybe very hard to do. 2. Match the pin size and drill into it from the top. I would start undersized and hope to pull it out the top. If not, drill it out to the pin size. 3. Find a used slide with a good extractor and use that. Remember, this design was not just Lorcin. It was used by other manufacturers like Jennings, Raven, Jimenez, Davis and Cobra. Cobra are supposed to be the best as far as not failing. Just make sure it is the same design as they made two different 380's.
@@tyedyepicker1971 I saw your #3 coming... #2... Drilling it out I thought about, but don't think I'll even think of doing it... #1 is outta the question... hahahaa Guess I'll hit some sites and just get one that'll work. Really appreciate your prompt responses!!!
Drive the pin out with a small punch from the bottom to the top. The extractor and spring should pop out. The spring sets in the pocket. It is tricky to install the extractor in due to the spring pressure. Most of the time I make a slave pin out of a toothpick and then knock it out of the way when tapping in the retaining pin.
A lot of older people (my father included) would store firearms with pieces removed. They thought of it as a theft deterent. When I grew up gunsafes were unheard of. I think a lot of these parts just ended up getting misplaced. They may pull a bolt out of a gun to replace a mainspring or firing pin? Also, things like bolts, cylinders, and barrels bring a premium on the used parts market. Just my thoughts.
@@tyedyepicker1971 yeah I guess that's true my dad would keep the 2 bolts for his rifles in his range box. But that was a way for him to lock them up and they always got Putin in that same place.
Wow, it might have had the barrel changed to a rifled barrel. I have never seen one with a rifled barrel. I have read where people in certain parts of the U.S. do that to deer hunt with .410's. I would see how it groups with slugs.
There is a very fine screw on top of the receiver in the sight groove. Soak it for several days with some good penetrating oil before attempting to remove it. Once it is removed, the firing pin will pop right out thru the hammer side of the receiver.
Yes, they do work. Some better than others. Parts are cheap, as there were millions of these things built. I have no issues with pot metal guns. Zamac has been used for about 60 years now.
@@tyedyepicker1971 numrich had parts for these and they have three type of firing pins beat to get replacement slide that has same writing on it I figured out I got to get newer slide mines got bad putting from previous owner but I got it at a good price so
I have a question you might be able to answer... I recently picked up a Stevens 311a 16G in a trade (guy lied about its condition, long story) and the hammers dont cock when the action is cracked open. I mean theres no feeling of spring engagement when the barrels are dropped like there should be on a break action. And the ejector is loose with no spring tension either. But when I take the stock off I can cock the hammers manually with a screwdriver and everything works perfectly (the trigger pull is actually very nice) I tried looking on the part schematic on Numrichs. Its clear the cocking plunger part #39 I think, isnt engaging the piece in the receiver that cocks the hammers. But I dont understand why because the plunger itself is working under spring tension. I dont know why those pieces arent meeting and engaging each other or what the deal is with the ejector. Ive fixed up old guns before and usually understand how to fix em but this is stumping me and making me feel stupid. Any ideas since youve handled and worked on a number of these models?
Well, I am not a gunsmith, but a tinker like yourself. You are in one of the problem areas with part #39 on your gun. Make sure it is right with the associated parts. That assembly has to be right. Make sure the forearm iron is tight. Then go to part #35 the cocking rod and associated parts. Make sure everything is clean and assembled correctly. Look for burrs or 50 year old dried up lubricant. Part #35 engages parts #28 or #29 (I can't remember exactly the part number) but it is called the cocking piece to cock the hammers. These generally don't go bad. Most of the time it is the barrel side of things. The last thing that could be giving you an issue, but the least likely as the hammers do hold when manually cocked is the sear spring. I really don't think it is that. Start by checking out #39 and #35 assemblies first. Then moved to the receiver side in the area of the cocking piece. Hopefully, it is on the barrel side. Going in to the receivers on these things can be a pain in the butt. I have bought several "broken" firearms that the only thing wrong with them that the previous owner incorrectly reassembled them. Let me know what you find, and feel free to hit me up with any other questions. I am not a gunsmith, just a life long tinker. Sometimes two heads on a problem is better than one.
Sounds like the cocking plunger and cocking lever are wore out. If they do not engage, or the plunger travels over the lever, sticking the action open, they are wore out. I have an early springfield 315 does that. Needs a good condition plunger, or some welding work on the old one.
@@TMFShooting I don't have any Spanish doubles. I have an Italian, a couple of French and a German double. All of them 16 gauge. The European guns seem more refined compared to our field guns like Stevens, Crescent and Hunter Arms.
Thanks, I have it stained and applied trusty old Tru-oil. I strung the metal parts getting ready to strip the bluing. Hopefully, I will have time tomorrow after work to get going on the metal work. New videos will be coming soon!
I have been using Belgium blue for awhile. Many years ago, I started off with Birchwood Casey cold blue. Then I progressed to Brownell's 44-40 and Oxpho Blue. The Oxpho Blue is pretty good for what it is. I just found Belgium blue very rust resistant. The only downside is it does contain mercury.
I only got 10, it took forever but I found my 28 gauge. Love side by sides. I always have liked the selection between mod.and full choke. It's a fun addiction to have.
I have 10 myself if I'm mentally counting, right? Plans for 3 more before the end of the year. Is what I don't like about doublis. If you fire the second barrel you got Almost.double the cleaning to do.
It is probably safe, but if it is only a crack it can be repaired. Brownell's sells Accuglass Bedding. It comes with brown and black dye. You can mix it and shoot it in the crack with a medical syringe to repair it. Surgical tubing works well holding the wood together if the crack is open during the repair. I have repaired a lot of stocks this way thru the years.
@@chasem4 I am uploading a video where I described how I bedded my stock blank this evening. It may give you an idea on a way to fix yours so the crack doesn't spread.
Good video. I have one of these in .410 bore, the lock up is a little bit loose, maybe just a 1/16" of wiggle at most. Is there any way to tighten this up? Other than a broken plastic butt cap and some small amount of surface rust underneath the forearm, that's all that is wrong with it.
Yes, that play can be tightened up. Most of the time it is wear on the barrel where it attaches to the pin. Is it a take down model where the barrel comes off when you remove the forearm? Or is it a pinned barrel model like mine? There are a few other things that you can check as well. The piece inside of the receiver that catches the barrel is the locking bolt. I have seen some wear on that as well as the locking bolt spring lose some tension as well. Most likely it is where on the barrel at the pivot pin itself and depending on the type of barrel determines the way to fix it.
Gunparts Corporation part number for the stock is 580530 and if you want to do the matching birch forend part number 583720. Just be prepared to do the inletting of the tang in the stock blank and changing the radius some on the leading edge where it meets the receiver.
@@bobbyshell8563 Stevens 170? Or Stevens 107? The 170 was a pump action rifle in 30-30 and 35 Remington. The 107 was a single barrel shotgun. I have a 107 (Revelation 350) in my project pile. The forearm is duct taped on so I am thinking it is missing the forearm iron of has a broken spring. Gunpartscorp.com has the forearms in stock right now for both guns. The 107 is pricey! eBay is also a good outlet. Gunparts also have some single barrel forearm blanks as well. They can save you some money.
