Hey! Do you have another page? I really think you have something good going on here. Ive learned more in your 2 videos than in the 40+ ive watched earlier. You dont skip anything, yet keep us interested. Hope to see something new!
Anyway you can do a video without the time lapse? I struggle to follow the masking steps since I get lost in the layers of it all. I would love to get into painting masks, but I'm starting pretty much from ground zero. I'm coming from the 3D printing world, so i understand prep and paint, but this masking is definitely much more elaborate than what i am used to. Thanks for sharing.
Wow, that's awesome! You've definitely inspired me to look into getting into mask painting, I'm a graphic designer with over 20 years of experience....and a goalie. Back in the day, I took airbrushing courses from a guy named Sol Dember who was the art director for Rockwell Scientific in Southern California, the guy was an absolute legend, anyhow I still have the Paasche airbrush and compressor. How much is that printer you use? Is the company called Cameo? Thanks for the inspiration brother!
Much appreciated! A bit of inspiration is what this is all about. I bought my Silhouette (model) Cameo (brand) for $200 or so locally 5 years back, it's bare bones compared to modern offerings but does all I ask. The digital design program attached to it is pretty simple to use, too. Quality in the finished work is all about the prep and the clearcoat. Sounds like you're starting off with a good base - good luck!
Interesting you use the plastic adhesion promoter. I use to prime using the same rustoleum primer but found it took too long to dry, and also questioned adhesion quality sometimes (specially along the edges of the mask). Do you find the adhesion promoter makes a difference (?) or have you just always used it.
I only do it as a precaution on the plastic components of masks, ie, the backplate on this CCM because plastic is an oil which paint doesn't like, I've had it pool and dry strangely before. I do very light dust coats to start with the primer which also helps with adhesion, as paint likes to bond with paint. I don't do it on composite masks because I've never had issues. I have had issues along the edge of masks with clear coat either pooling or running, but I think that's on me laying it too thick.
@@c_z_design My logic with the backplates is even though the backplate is indeed plastic, it is technically clear coated but I suppose when sanding it, its hard to know whether you have went through the clear or not, so makes sense. I have found the Createx Sealer actually works pretty well as an alternative to the rusto--you can start your painting same day of application :)
Thanks, and good luck! I'll have another video out sometime in January, updating some methods and with some better work. I now use a 2-part automotive clear coat from Spray-Max which gives a much nicer finish.
