Hi there! And welcome to my channel. Hope you enjoy my videos! As you maybe imagine I am a fan of the illumination, I love HID and fluorescent, a little bit incandescent. My lamps interest awoke when I was a kid of 6-7 years old, because my grandpa has a electrical workshop, so he teach me everything I know about that weird and awesome things called "light bulbs"
I didn't know 4 foot tubes existed with single pins on the ends. I've only seen that with the 8 foot ones, at least here in the USA. I am also guessing the frequent on off cycles made your tubes go more quickly.
hi THE BULB HOME, can you tell me how did you built your night bed lamp, what equipment you used for it, i want to build my own lamp for my bedroom xD, is there any chance you can show a tutorial to explain how you did it? loved your video💪
I’ve been binge watching your videos and now im definitely looking into getting some old light fixtures myself. I’ve seen new old stock bulbs and fluorescent tubes at second hand shops but never thought of buying them until now. 😄
I found a few tubes, and one already had a black spot. Lit it up with an electronic ballast because a magnetic ballast wouldnt light it. Same exact behavior before it blew except I could literally see the electrode melt and when it lost vacuum, it made a loud pop and cracked the glass. The end was very hot so I guess these electronic ballasts really drive every bit of life out of the tubes. It stayed lit even after the electrodes melted, only going dead when the glass cracked.
Looks like an electronic ballast I have collected fluorescent lightbulbs for over 54 years and I’m not stopping now. I’m glad you got your fixed or fixed but you have an electronic ballast that’s what you have.
Aunque es algo complicado y confuso, puedes revisar el código de manufactura de Philips: Es un número y una letra, de esta forma (ejemplo): 1E El número es por el año y torna de posición cada década. Si es número y luego letra es probable que haya sido fabricado entre 1970 y 1979 o entre 1990 y 1999, o entre 2010 y 2019 aunque no lo creo porque dices que es antiguo. Si es letra y luego número pudo haber sido fabricado entre 1960 y 1969 o entre 1980 y 1989, o entre 2000 y 2009... Las letras son por los meses: A- Enero B- Febrero C- Marzo D-Abril E-Mayo F-Junio G- Julio H- Agosto (no hay letra I para no confundirse con 1) J- Septiembre K- Octubre L-Noviembre M-Diciembre Por lo tanto, mi ejemplo (1E) podría haber sido fabricado en mayo de 1971, o 1991... ahí tendrás que juzgar más o menos por la forma y el diseño del foco... los fanáticos más clavados saben reconocerlo por el diseño de la caja y hasta por el lugar de fabricación... Se que pudo ser confuso, pero espero pueda ayudar :)
The beautiful thing about fluorescent is how many spectacular failure modes are common, depending on the circuit used. Preheat lamps tend to flash at EOL as the lamp's operating voltsge rises above the ballast output. A lamp glowing at the ends with no blinking indicates a starter with welded contacts or shorted condenser, often caused by prolonged operation of a blinking EOL lamp. This can damage a new lamp rather quickly as well and cause the ballast to overheat and fail. EOL on rapid start is typically indicated by flickering and greatly reduced brightness, sometimes there is no light, but the ends glow a dim orange. Since most 2 lamp fixtures operate the lamps in series, one lamp failure causes both lamps to go out or dim/flicker. EOL on instant start is rather spectacular. The ballast open circuit voltage is usually in the 600 - 800 volt range, high enough to start the lamp with one or both cathodes completely exhausted of emission coating. The lamp flickers and spirals violently with severe blackening and red-orange glow at one or both ends, and the ends can get extremely hot, sometimes to the point of cracking or melting a hole in the tube or melting the sockets and dropping the lamp. HID (mercury vapor, metal halide, high pressure sodium) lamps can have a similar EOL behavior as fluorescent in that the lamp operating voltage increases with age. They can all exhibit cycling, that is, starting and going out as the lamp warms to full brightness. Metal halide is by far the most dangerous because the quartz arc tube operates at around 2000°F with an internal pressure of 50 - 90 psi or more, and as the lamp ages, the arc tube weakens from thermal and chemical stress, and can rupture, blasting shards of red hot quartz though the area with force comparable to a grenade. Because many disastrous fires have occurred in warehouses and similar industrial settings from EOL metal halide lamps, the type O lamp was developed. This special lamp has a ballistic shield around the arc tube to prevent fragments from striking the outer glass, which is a special heat resistant type to contain the red hot remains of the arc tube following a rupture, this type can be used safely in open or enclosed fixtures and may be required by insurance companies or the fire marshal for facilities that still use metal halide lighting. In addition open metal halide fixtures manufacturered after 2004 are required to have exclusionary sockets, so that only type O lamps will operate.