I always dreamt of having the opportunity to buy products I can't afford to achieve that tone. I quickly realized that in order to fulfill my goals, I would have to pick up some skills along the way to build them myself. Fast forward, I'm happy to share my tone-seeking journey and offer products that are the result of the endless pursuit of tone. I hope to enlighten, encourage, and make "unobtainium" a possibility for those who are boxed out of reaching their goals.
-Ryan "The Tone Geek" www.TheToneGeek.com
Virtual Tip Jar www.paypal.me/thetonegeek Bitcoin: 3JLMHvBycbZMkzVJFznqBbhSfdGrPpVVkr
I bought the box a lator on reverb a month back this pedal is awesome it really does a ton of things. I use it like john except I have 2 klon clones a jhs notaklon and a Mythos Wildwood Mjolnir
Great video,thanks. Would there be enough room for the board if I were to invert a standard strat socket and have the battery in the socket cavity? So in other words,a strat socket upside down? Cheers
I find it amusing that your multimeter has copied the yellow color of a Fluke in an effort to trade off their reputation. Fluke have sucessfully sued for this in the past, and I have somewhat fallen for it myself. I own a real Fluke now.
If you build a pedal with the same layout same components just used old version of those same components found from junk like old keyboard tvs etc will it sound the same as a pedal built using real boutique version of the same components
The main problem is that old components can be out of specifications due to age. And it makes troubleshooting a nightmare. Most of the time it is not worth it to salvage old components instead of buying new ones.
I decided to to start building pedals. There are 3 or 4 videos I downloaded on a flash drive. This is my #1 video on learn to building pedals. Thank you, thank you very much... 😊
@@TheToneGeek awesome, thanks! I rewatched the video several times but didn't get that. So it's 3/4" for the sides and1/2" for the back panel. What did you use for the front baffle board of the headshell though?
Nice, adding 5hat "Mid " made it a mini single speaker Twin reverb sound. Well done, still some-thing missing( being really picky) the Fender "Fizz" is present but not as pronounced. Keep tweeking those resistors. I would stop right there, it is usable and deserves a proper place in your bands back-line. The 64 Fender has it's faults but it has the "Instant" plug in and play forever old school amp appeal.
Looks like a work of art . Just heard the "Audio" and it has "Headroom" but lacks just a little if that "Fender" Zingyness, like a mild fizz( not fuzz). I would love to use that amp. We used to mod Twin reverbs by pulling out the reverb send and return RCAs and using them for boost pedal in-out, you lose the reverb but the reverb control on the amp becomes a "Monster" gain control.
I built this, yeah 🙂 I would love to build more but I'm not currently in a position to do so which is why I made the project open-source for anyone to build their own github.com/colganr/steel-string-singer-sn-002
@@TheToneGeek ok Perfect thanks. Can you tell me where I get the front penal of the 004 clone you made ? Where only steel string singer is visible ? Thanks !
@@xx-dl2ol That amp was a folded aluminum chassis with direct powder coating and silkscreening. I posted the files here as well: github.com/colganr/steel-string-singer-sn-004
Thank you so much! I’ve been actively gigging with this amp for 4 years now and it still blows me away every time! I swear it keep sounding better with each hour of use! It’s definitely the amp of a lifetime and will stay with me forever
My favorite part begins at :27 seconds with the opening lick to Ain’t Gone’n’Give Up On Love If you’re wearing good headphones, you can hear just how POWERFUL this amp is, especially with the low end. It’s 100% that kick in the chest that John Mayer talks about with this amp!
Forget the tone sample since it’s an instructional video on HOW to modify but how are you going to touch the capacitors without telling people to discharge or saying, “please don’t touch the parts the way I do…etc.”. You should take the video down.
Some corrections: plate load positions they are RN65 metal films not koa/speer. koas are in some of the cathode bypass positions (reverb) and in the series connections of the signal path. Also those are not 715 series caps throughout, but rather 6ps series, easy mistake they both look very similar. 6ps is polyester 715 is polypropylene. They likely used both but only used the 715 in strategic positions.
Yup, commented on it too. Was like the first thing I noticed, having paid stupid money for a crappy multimeter than I bought it a hurry because of the yellow.
This is super helpful. Wish I found this around 6 busted builds ago. I brute forced all this information via PedalPCB and Tayda as well. I wish sites like PedalPCB would create a bill of materials like AionFX does for Mouser parts. You can copy/paste the Mouser part number and quantity to build a shopping cart in a couple clicks.
I suggest using a 5 watt resistor to be on the safe side. A 5 watt resistor can dissipate more heat than a 1 watt resistor without melting, making it better for discharging a capacitor. A 5 watt resistor can also be rated for at least 2.5 watts of power dissipation, which is safer for discharging a capacitor.
My guess is that you're right and John has something like an Ox Box with custom IR's of each cab. Probably 1 box per amp. The added benefit of using something like that is that stage volume can be reduced without sacrificing tone. I speak from experience of gigging a 100W Victory Super Duchess with a Two Notes unit. Sounded amazing through the house PA and on stage we were able to avoid overly loud volumes, meaning no ringing ears etc. Heck, even Bonamassa has started using them!!
If you watch the full Trey interview that happened right before Phish Sphere run he explains why they can’t have amps 🎤’d up on stage. Because the PA room speakers 🔊 are lining the entire sphere behind the screen and behind the bands stage too, so they can’t have monitors or amps on stage or it will feedback like crazy. All in ear monitors, drums have slight reverb from the house speakers being behind stage and needs those walls but you hear it a little live inside venue too. It’s wild in there and sounds amazing ! Great video and stoked to see the Dead Spec out there too, maybe amps on stage are for him to have some sound /movement or to tweak live but ya no idea how he goes out to PA
Alessandro twin reverb? Just a thought, no concrete evidence but I think Alessandro has been doing a lot with new transformer iron in deluxe reverbs and twin reverbs I believe. The Alessandro badge would be in the bottom right corner of the amp.
@@TheToneGeek I never thought you would reply within few minutes to a five years old video. 😀😀😀 Thankyou...👍👍👍 Actually, that was a random comment..😁😁😁
That's all SSS!! That's one of the crazy things about the real SSS that is misunderstood. They do overdrive, and they are NOT stiff like everyone thinks. The real SSS are smooth. The Dumbleland is the stiff amp!
Makes me even more curious about how my 2 6v6 SSS 002 with Cathode Follower build will turn out can’t wait to finish it out :) Any “foresight” from you to what I can expect :)?
Great to hear it from you! I had some Laney trannies laying around so I decided to built the amp and test the circuit with them and 6v6’s first. If it won’t be enough I’ll probably buy hammonds and try 2x 6550 tubes :)
Here's a tip on how to get your buss wire straight as an arrow. I make jewelry and may times I need my wire very straight. Here's how I get the nastiest kinked wire straight. 1) Place one end of the wire in your drill. 2) Once secured in the drill, firmly hold the other end of the wire with pliers. 3) Apply stead pressure on the wire by pulling with your pliers, while keeping the drill positioned. 4) Start the drill and all the kinks will come out. It's easy and fast.
I'm not sure what happened to Tayda.. I used to buy from them some years ago... but from one point in time, they started to offer only DHL Shipping (to Brazil), which brings two big problems: the shipping cost is about the same price as the products themselves (for my case); and 100% of what is DHL shipped is taxed by our customs.. and the taxes makes the costs double... i.e., final price is four times what I used to pay (some years ago, I used to pay from 5-10 USD for shipping, and no taxes). And so far, I could not find a good supplier abroad as Tayda.. I do have some locals, but none of them have such a friendly site and a comprehensive inventory...it is a pity
This is a great video and a must-see for anyone who is getting into pedal building. I’ve been building pedals off and on for some time. If I may, I’d like to add a few things: When you plan to build a project that has hard-to-find parts, try smallbear electronics. They specialize in serving DIY pedal makers. When buying parts from anybody, buy extra parts if possible. It seems that when I drop a resistor on the floor, it disappears, never to be seen again. I’ve built up a supply of frequently-used components. In some cases, I have had most of what I need already on hand. One last thing: I’ve read that some components sold by Tayda are fakes - such as J201 transistors. I personally have never experienced that. Even if true, it is unlikely that it is Tayda’s fault. The problem likely is the supplier. I bought a $25 component tester, which I use to test certain components before installing the part. Again, the video is great. I subscribed because of it.
