Welcome to #ruskiweldfab I am building the fastest Renault Clio in the Country. Sometimes I do reviews of other cars and new toys unboxing. On occasions, I create HOW TO videos. at times we go racing :)
my philosophy is #builtnotbought
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Gear and Consumables tried and tested by me! www.amazon.co.uk/shop/influencer-8343a704
Really nice video, going to try this myself soon on my bonnet, not so much going for crazy lightness but a bit lighter than the steel original bonnet, I suppose this method would work fine if I wanted to go fibreglass + carbon, but I would use glass on the first few layers and then carbon on the last " final layer / show layer " Not decided yet if I want to go full carbon or partial good bit of price difference. Great work
For anyone wanting to insert aluminium mounts into carbon parts you will need to use an e-glass layer to isolate the aluminium otherwise you will end up with galvanic corrosion of the metal.
When it doesnt look like you expected lol Been watching loads of carbon pannel builds your way os defo easier and cheaper but the finnsh isnt 100% but i guess ots application based race car not show car 😂😂😂😂😂
Running h7 auxito bulbs mega bright well built bulb. Had code the bmw otherwise they filcker when lights off. The beam pattern is spot on nobody flashes at you. Going try the mot see if it pass as long the beam pattern is good can't see why not bulbs retainer clips are a pain
im quite excited... less than 4 days till we all get there. your MR2 looks good. be interesting to see it up against the MR2 Turbo. Mk3's have a slightly longer wheelbase than the mk2's, but a lot less weight.
Geometry under the hood will yield the strongest part while still saving a ton of weight. Even something as simple as cutting the cardboard tube from an old paper towel roll in half length wise and laying the end to end provides a easy form you can lay your cf over and get the most out of it. Foam works too as long as you aren’t using polyester resins that will eat it. OEM hoods have the ribbing for this very reason, max rigidity with minimal material. Overall, love the video and great work. Love seeing people choose to do it themselves to get something special and one of a kind versus spending thousands on a super price inflated cookie cutter hood.
That's a huge list of sponsors and suppliers in the description, all with their own individual areas of expertise, that combine to make this build a success.
I was looking into aerodynamics 20 years or so ago when internet searches were kinda new and found some old NACA postings (way before they became NASA) where it stated air cannot be 'moved' over more than a 7 degree angle without causing drag (turbulence or flow separation) It was mainly for the 'hole' left in atmosphere by 'body' moving through it (probably why there were so many 'fastback' cars in 70's/80's?) There was also formula for NACA ducts for intakes, flush wit surface and very low drag. May be worth looking into as drag reduction at speed is worth as much as more horsepower. In the 1980's I knew a guy making surf kayak's, surf 'shoes' BAT's and various other kayak's. (my sister worked for him and the guy who invented the 'T' to make surf rescue surf shoes more stable) For production use, moulds need to be around 6mm (1/4") or more thick plus reinforced on flat area's or they will bow after a few uses' He used ordinary PVC pipe as the 'hoops' formed gave greater rigidity without making large moulds too heavy to move by one person.
