Wow that sux so bad. I'm scared of the same thing. I am doing a Ls3/6L80E swap in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. It's a project with my grandkids. I am building the engine myself. Block is done and I am working on the heads. I'm replacing everything. The crank is used but it was a 40k mile crank that just needed light polishing. I think untill I get a few thousand miles on ut, I will be sick at my stomach. Lol. I've got 4 grand in the engine with machine work and buying all new parts. It's a N/a build with a BTR RedHot cam. Not going for all out max power. Street car with an occasional track day. Burnouts and ice cream lol. Maybe a few red light to red light lol.
First off, are you sure that cam profile is for ROAD COURSE? The duration on that lobe sounds like some drag stuff. The C6Z is a known thing, and although you might be a good mechanic i would have just taken the engine out and sent it to the dudes that have been building these cars for the last ten years or more successfully. That engine is a KNOWN THING in motorsports. 10k aint bad when you are hammering on that engine season after season. I am sorry to hear this, and this is just my two cents worthless advice after the fact.
New here.. but damnit man.. that's awful... I daily a 68 Dart.. I live car's etc.. Have always wanted a Vette... Someday a C5 big wish would be the C6.. Cheers from Southern California 🇺🇸..
This sucks bro. I'm sorry you gotta deal with this. On the brite side, the car is absolutely INSANE. You'll get it sorted hopefully without costing you a small fortune. This is the first vid of yours I've seen, hoping you'll keep us updated? Where are you located?
I’ve heard at least three things that could contribute to the problems none more than not replacing all the dry sump parts, it’s not just a money grab there’s a reason it’s replaced when this is done under warranty in these cars you will never clean those out completely
@@BryanYarnell well, normally I would agree. However. The engine did not fail prior to…..all I was doing was a piston swap to a high compression setup and getting rid of forced induction to convert the car to road course duty, there was no debris in it and if there was, the cam bearings would’ve gotten ate up. There was machining debris left in the lower passages and that is why the machine shop is going in with me to redo the machine work and new bearings.
@@HorsepowerRxFL glad to hear they’re standing behind it. I had a buddy that had Thompson motorsports build a motor twice and both were junk. I was hoping you didn’t use that same machine shop.
metal in oil in a new engine is not uncommon , thats alot of metal , and low oil pressure , i would look at the oil pump , and pickup , did the seal on the pickup and the pump get damaged or forgotten ??? double check all the clearances and the cam bearings , did the machine shop clean the block and crank correctly did they leave metal in oil galleys ?, and check the main bearings , are the oil holes in correct position , and are they correct bearings ? seen instances were bearings are not correct and blocking oil holes in crank ?? was engine machined correctly ? line honed ? block bored with correct fixture , to keep block square , be picky about your machine shop not all are created equal , there are machine shops and then there are good machine shops , if all else fails , change machine shops , second opinion ?? or buy a drop in crate engine . im betting that its a oil starvation issue , pump bad or not picking up the oil or oil pressure bleeding off somehow .
Damn that really sucks! I’m sorry to hear this. Get it sorted out and don’t go crazy with the build. My buddy and I were out this past weekend we both have boosted cars but nothing crazy around 600/700 to the wheels. We were thinking about upping the power but both said you know what I’m good where we are. Pump gas, beat the shit out of it and mostly stock drivetrain parts and doesn’t break.
I can relate. I am also in the middle of doing the same thing after my #3 and #4 mains got wiped out with F.M. Definately debri from machining. Very few true pros out there are left. Bottom line no one is going to put the care and effort like yourself. I also had the same experience with a local machine shop.I agree with the paint thinner or mineral spirits. I also pressurise a one of those a/c flush can that comes with a hose and I hit all the passages with 90 psi of fluid pressure. It works. Good luck.. Awesome vid.....
Tough situation bud. I commend you on your understanding and level head during the process. I believe you and the shop came to a very fair agreement. Personally, I've used the same shop for 25 years. From day 1 I've disassembled and rechecked all their work. Not that they gave me cause to, but that I needed to know I was sending out something that I know is good to go. We're human and we make mistakes. If somehow we can lesson the chance of a mistake or catching it before it becomes costly....then I try to do it. It's worked for me for 25 years and I'll keep doing it till this industry is done with me. Maybe something to consider, I use lacquer thinner to flush all oil galleries, lines, tanks, and coolers. It breaks down any stuck oily garbage and really cleans. I fill a 5 gallon bucket and and submerge an old fuel pump with a hose. After hot tank and a parts washer at the machine shop, I hand wash with Tide and pressure wash to rinse. Then the lacquer thinner and I still get dirty runout after all that. Anyway....good luck to you. I'll subscribe.
Man I hate that happened. A lot of time and work involved. Much more when tight fit for everything. Install and then taking it back out. Seems this is a machining problem more than likely. I will stay tuned to see the prognosis. Good luck and hang in there.
How did you check endplay with the crank installed in the engine with the complete rotating assembly, clutch, drive line, trans etc still installed???? Who installed the oil pump, did you pre-lube it, did you shim it? Did you prime the engine before you started it, and BIG FYI NEVER NEVER EVER let a brand new engine Idle, especially on initial start up with the incorrect Tune, your just begging for problems.. more questions than answers, im pretty sure this will end in installer error, .assuming .010 thrust is correct (which i highly doubt) unless is ate the main saddle, or into the rod sides, shouldn’t really be an issue with an LS engine.
@@7.0SLO this current build is Heavily Ported ls3 heads BTR 400 NA V2 cam; similar to GPI ss4 DSS racing pistons +6cc dome 4” stroke crank LS7 dry sump K1 with k1 rods 4.040 bore, dowel pinned main caps and arp hardware BTR trinity intake manifold and ported stock TB Kooks long tubes and X pipe 850 FIC injectors and fore triple pump -10 feed
I don't know how i landed here, but it sounds like your def not having fun, and this is a constant money and time pit. Save your sanity, just throw in a stock 5.3 with a cam and springs with a power adder and enjoy it. They will destroy 85% of cars at the track anyhow.
Sorry guy. This engine is not oiling. Those bearings and even the oil pump look bad. Maybe one of the 2 front press in galley plugs is missing, or the barbell is in backwards. Lucky you caught it before it ate everything.
@@VitoF111 everything had oil when taking it apart, the barbell was in, I borescoped it, freeze plug was in the front as well. The lifters and rockers got oil. The bearings were all lubricated, I believe there to be debris from machining in the oiling passages & clearances not set correct. Will confirm Saturday. Nothing was too damaged. I did order the billet barbell as well for this…third round.
So you mentioned the lifters were stored in oil i think you said, so they were used from the previous build correct? Was the parts for the dry sump pump also used? Was the crank end play what caused the bearings to fail? If you got there ultimately what do you think the deciding factor was in the failure after 7 minutes?
@@freethinkingamerican80 Yes they were reused. Less than 1500. Prior setup had no failure. Oil pan was reused, but washed, oil tank and oil lines reused but washed, then all were flushed/filtered with brand new oil and disposed prior to touching engine. Dry sump Oil pump new and feeler gauges on install. Oil cooler lines new and flushed. Oil cooler flushed. I will have an update likely Saturday night for everyone. I am disassembling the rotating assembly with the machine shop and doing failure analysis.
@@freethinkingamerican80 Will do, but until I have all of the facts and all parties involved, I won’t make the claims of what I strongly feel happened. I’ll upload a video Saturday night/Sunday AM. 🤘🏻
How much horses you think were pushing on 12psi? I have tapped performance double pump, frp forged internals and Fic 1000cc’s sitting at home right now just need to buy the t6 86 kit, and I’m trying to do more research before I jump on it. My plan is a 700-750 reliable daily and want to know about how much psi would get me there. Also have a frp tomahawk cam 8spd 4K stall
Do you recommend turbo over whipple? I've got a 2012 5.7 hemi 1500 with comp cam stage 1 and hellcat lifters and looking into rebuilding small block since it is burning oil but I want to take the chance to drop a whipple. Do you do installs?
Nice video. I can't wait to order my turbo kit for my 2012 ram 1500 hemi 2wd single cab. I will still used my 6.4 intake manifold, I will make pipe will work
The 6.4 manifold will be beneficial, I just wanted to show the kit as a click button from website and install on your truck with no mods necessary. The 6.4 I’m putting together will have a hi ram so I’ll need to do some mods for that as well 😎
This isn’t an oil-less turbo, however, the oil-less turbos work pretty well….just need to stay on the maintenance and make sure you grease them ever 2-3K if you’re not beating the hell out of it….grease it once a month if you are thrashing it on the weekend every weekend
@@jacobwest5070 yes, I was. Engine lasted 50+ track passes boosted and 1000+ street miles of abuse, but I believe when I did rolling antilag the rings butted and shattered two of my pistons and sent two rods to god.
I solely only ditched it due to the on3 kit is based on fitting to the 5.7 manifold. In my efforts, I was trying to show the end user what the average combination looks like, without having to spend a lot of “a la carte” money on making it work, which makes it seem a little less attractive.
@@Dan-gj1hz Depending on your intended use, hellcat trans swaps aren’t inexpensive and still pretty limited to a heavy platform. Th400’s are pretty reliable once a built one and have the option for a transbrake @ that point and converter dump valve. But if you want to keep it street fun, an 8 speeds def the way to go. I’m building my 8hp70 myself with an alto g3 kit and modding the valve body
@@HorsepowerRxFL I can get a complete hellcat trans for $2500 all day. After you get all the parts for the 8-speed swap (with arent that expensive) and the standalone harness, you will be 6-7k into it. Still cheap than $5000 a pop for built 545rfe. No reason to go built 4l60 when the 8 speed holds a ton of power in stock form.
