On here. Buildanother68chevelle

Comes from somewhere…… What PIN number out of computer? There’s some extra wires from drive by wire module. They are for setting cruise control

The donor vehicle supplies all these parts. That’s the best part about getting everything from the same rig. You know it’s all meant to be together. Complete engine with all the sensors, harness, PCM (computer), pedal off the firewall, drive by wire module (DBW), and short harness in between. One thing I’ve had to deal with a couple times was replacing the pedal and was able to get another easily at a wrecking yard and another time I thought I needed a module but that turned out to be a funky harness which taught me to check every single wire for continuity no matter what. Based on your YT name I’m hoping you’re trying to stuff an LS into a 510. I’ve seen it done and was impressive.

You bet!

There’s zero doubt in my mind that there’s a big brake swap kit or 3 out there for a C10. Whether it’s a Corvette set up or not I wouldn’t know. Good luck on whatever project you’re working on.

Great question. When I was researching this I found that factory S10 set ups did not use an anti sway bar except for upgraded models. That may have changed in late models but I think the nature of a small pickup left it a low priority. There’s no shortage of aftermarket ones for S10 rear ends if you decide later to add one. I figured I’d play it safe since I was building the rear end completely. It’s the biggest unknown for me with this project. Because this is a heavy set up i think it needs it. Obviously i hope this handles well but i wont know for sure till it's running.

Thanks for watching. Yes! It’s been moving along and have a bunch of video to edit and post. It’s been a bit more fun actually working on it than editing but hearing there’s interest out there does make me want to deliver some updates. Thanks again

@buildanotherracecar8150 your build and a couple others have motivated me to work on an old vega I have.

If the donor computer is fresh out of a vehicle it needs to be worked over by someone who knows what they’re doing. I used GMtuners.com with great success and reasonable pricing. I liked the idea of using the original computer. There’s other ways to go. You can buy stand alone aftermarket computers but then you gotta be smart and patient enough to learn all that. I hear they’re great and might go that way at some point but for easy, I went with original

Thanks for watching! I’m way way behind on content and really need to do an update with all the crap I’ve learned and found solutions for. Not that I’m any kind of authority on this stuff but putting stuff out there for others is only a good thing. So many amateur videos along with the “professional” approaches are what really inspires me to tackle this stuff. Good luck on your project.

I frequently notice how manufacturers mount the bodies on frames and try to adapt similar methods. On a late 60s A body for example, there are 5 point down each side plus one up front for the radiator core support which also handles the front fenders. Jeep CJ5 rubber mounts are easy. 1/2” diameter holes 2”round and 3/4” (I think) thick. Thanks for watching and the question.

Thanks for watching. The narrower width of the frame, the straight parallel rails going back to the rear make it a great donor. No shortage of them at wrecking yards either. After the rear end arch you’re really stuck doing something custom to get the rear rails low enough to support trunk area and bumper. I focused on wheel base and once I recognized I’d have to create my own rear rails just chopped away the “C” channel and went 2x4” tube. It’s easy to under support the areas around the door but don’t. Getting that firmly attached will keep B pillar areas stiff. Especially if you’re hacking at floor all the way from passenger to driver side. Good luck on your projects.

So the key for me was supporting the engine and the roll around LS bolt on stands worked great for me. Admittedly, there was a bit of a pucker moment when first starting wondering what the vibrations were going to do but seemed fine and after inspection the welds on the stands are all fine. Cooling it I think is worth the effort. Some will run it dry for very short startup but I wanted to see the engines get to operating temps. So many times an LS will reveal issues once warm. As for wiring, just duplicate what the factory does. Great practice before it’s in the engine bay. I went with GMtuners.com for my computer bench tune and pin out sheets with really explicit instructions for the DriveByWire details. Good luck with your project.

Sorry for delay. Was jeeping the Rubicon. Woo Hoo!! Fairly certain mine is a 2002. I got the rolling chassis for $750. Once I was done with wheels/rear end I dropped that junk back at the yard along with all the scrap steel I lobbed off

Sorry for delay…. Thanks, it will be interesting to see if how it feels. It’s the part of the project I have the most anxiety about because the packaging commits be to a rack. This one is clearly strong enough but yours won’t know till it under it’s own power. Fingers crossed

That module also controls cruise control and there are wires that I don’t use. They leave the module, don’t go to the throttle body and aren’t black(ground) or pink (12v). Not sure of the count but 3-4 sounds about right.

Gmtuners.com

I called up Tick Performance. They’re all about getting your LS and a T56 or TR6060 to live happily ever after. Depending on the transmission shaft depth there’s a bushing you’ll need to install in your crank. There’s also some other wizardry you’ll need to deal with depending on how the trans was set up. Tick can guide you

It’s rack and pinion now. Shows up on later videos and it was a perfect solution for fitting the radiator into the available space.

Definitely looked at that option. After ton of reading, talking to builders, talking with guys at the suspension manufacturers, and mocking up some ideas I decided on the 4 link with panhard. Lots of ways to do things. I’m always impressed when someone has enough confidence in their experience to decide what some else “should” do or have done. Thanks

That’s definitely on the list of possible solutions. While it’s convenient to keep the hood off for the time being, all exterior modifications are on hold till more body panels are on. The biggest headscratch right now is how to oven up the front in a cool enough way to allow for more airflow to the radiator. Thanks for the input.

Funny. Thanks. My thinking is the manufacturers usually use 10ga and they’re pressed into the rounded shapes that add strength as well so I used 3/16” and 1/4” just on the plate that the mounts bolt to then the 4 by 2 underneath is closer to 10ga. I’d rather try to duplicate what the manufacturer does than risk under built. I’ve seen and heard of some guys who throw together mounts having some cracks later on. I hate doing stuff twice.

Gm tuners.com is awesome. Ryan can sell you complete sheets and instructions. You also may find good free info on ls1tech.com

Are you using all the Holley stuff to make it work? Curious how that driver side header and steering shaft actually go together. When I decided to move back the engine it meant I needed to solve differently for headers but steering got easier. Good luck

@BuildAnotherRaceCar I'm going with ebay engine mounts and headers

@@shadymaint1 From the original research I did the steering ends up going through one of the header pipes. Good luck

@@buildanotherracecar8150 I've got some LS swap S10 shorty headers. The driver side is really close to the block to make room for the steering shaft.

Thank you very much!

There’s a Vintage Air air conditioning under dash kit installed but Holley makes an accessory drive system that I think is by far the best. Everything is minted off the water pump so no adjustment issues. It comes with alternator, steering pump, and ac compressor if you need so you’re sorta tied to Holley for future parts but 2.5 years in so far no issues.

I’m 100% with you about “If I’m gonna do all this labor, I want it to work!” On my first swap I was told about a thousand times that all the info was free and in LS1.com. I poked around there and it’s all there. What I didn’t want was to put everything together based on that info and not have some help if it just didn’t start. That’s when I found gmtuners.com. Ryan is professional, knowledgeable, and very reasonably priced. You can send him your computer to reprogram, buy a pin out sheet with explicit instructions for relays/fuses of any part of that. I did both and on my first swap had some issues that he helped me figure out. I had a faulty drive by wire pedal and he guided me through that. Hope this helps

Thanks, it’s moving along.

For the drive by wire (DBW), you’ve got the pedal, the throttle body, and the module that brings all the wizardry together. The pedal sends a 10 pin connector harness to the module. Nothing complicated there. The other connector on the module is a 16 pin and it sends wires to the throttle body, has a bunch that need signals to and from the brake light and another one that sees 12v until you step on brake pedal. That’s a fun one to get your head wrapped around. The 16 pin connector also has a pink wire that needs 12v when ignition is on and when cranking and a ground. It’s all out there on LS1tech.com or if you just want to buy a complete pin out and detailed instructions reach out to GMtuners.com On the pcm and the fuel pump, I used the signal from the computer. You could just power it with ignition but I found that the computer will turn it off for you when there’s an issue with the engine. I liked that feature.

@@buildanotherracecar8150 Thanks very much !

There’s no shortage of free info for specific GM set ups on LS1.com. For guaranteed results with great customer support gmtuners.com is awesome. Very reasonable prices as well.

www.kore3.com/

@@buildanotherracecar8150 In description box

More work and cost for sure just to satisfy my stupid OCD.

Yeah, I made that jig for the press/bench. Good idea on the ball joint press. Will try that next time I’m dealing with it on the car. Thanks

1997 fresh out a wrecking yard. Had like 8 to choose from and this one had zero damage and was super greasy so I figured grease was safer than rust. Thanks, next videos will be on getting the Ford 9inch ride height set so I can play with moving back the engine/transmission

Yeah, I thought about that and saw that guys modifying big truck frames went with the Z but this thing is already boxed, will be under a car body, and those plates I added seemed liked equalizers so I went with the 45

@@buildanotherracecar8150 yeah I do them on c10 frames

what year s10 chassis?

I have two. This was a sheet of plywood on a table for this job.

Yeah, I’ve been avoiding that due to space after I’m done with it. No question it would make life a bit easier at times but I’ve got it working for now. Thanks