Hello! I'm from Eastern Oregon. I am a self taught welder/fabricator and I have a long (for my age) history in the trailer industry. I build alot of dog sports equipment and also compete in those sports with my dogs. I also have a huge love for semi trucks and Milwaukee tools! :-) I work out of a shop I built myself with the help of my Dad and a friend. My channel has a large variety of content but I hope its all enjoyable!
packaging should suit the product so yes it is their fault, when we package large bulky items we use heaps of 100mm thick polystyrene and build a box around the the foam made of 12 mm ply, we pack so tight it doesn't matter how useless the courier is. nothing gets even a scratch
😮😮😮 OCD ,, YA ,, ANGLE , ON ,, FLEX , NO WAY AROUND THAT , NEEDED TO LAY OUT HOLES ,, SET COFFEE TABLE FRAME TO CLEAR HOLE LAYOUT ,,👍. TABLE TOP ,1/2 OR 3/4 BETTER WILL NOT BEND ,,❓ DRILL & TAP TABLE TOP ,, LAG TOP TO FRAME ,, GOOD JOB WITH PIPE STANDS ,, SET UP ,, SET DOWN ,, LEAVEL TABLE ON GROUND ,, SET T . TOP ON ,,CHECK LEVEL,, IF NOT ❓❓ (( SHIM GAPS )) LEVEL ,, DON'T WELD ,, BAD ,, ** SKATE BOARD PARK ,, YOUR OCD GO TO 10 + BEST OF LUCK
@@762cat wont let me post a pic so here is a link to them. www.grainger.com/product/4YT77?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw74e1BhBnEiwAbqOAjILPDd3w89cu9G2B57J0doQL_u4A6DOeUBKQ2wVcrpas6hPnLmPmPBoCeskQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
If that's a plasma cutting machine in the back corner and you're a "metal guy", you should have purchased your own stock and made your own table. These are for people who don't own a huge plasma cutter and forced to buy these that end up getting trashed in shipment.
It’s been a couple months now, did you end up getting the top flat? I’m planning on having a water jet company cut my holes in 1/2” plate and mounting it to my framed table. I’m wondering how flat I’ll be able to get it. I’m going with 4’x6’ A36 HR steel.
I sold this one for around 10k and somebody jumped on it within a day. I think 15k is the more normal number. If you can, try to find one that hasnt been abused in a rental fleet!
Nothing wrong with the hooks on the chains, Just needs new latches, Those things will need replaced 100 times over before the hook itself is a problem. Should be noted with the derating... Yes it may be a trailer physically built to support 12, 14, 16k etc but tagged at 9900... So yes physically you can haul 14k, but legally you will never ever be allowed to go above the 9900 because of it being derated, so no just because the axles support it the tag being derated means you cannot legally to over the 9900.
Watched your video and have deep sympathy for what you are going through. High-quality tables are so expensive, and the one you bought before was badly damaged during shipping. As a Chinese agent on the Canadian side, I've seen many customers get screwed by some poor quality factories. In the past few years the quality of things made in China has caught up and they are not expensive. Because of their own production and manufacturing, coupled with the Belt and Road policy support, and I work with several factories quality is okay, than the same high-quality products cheaper than nearly half. If friends you have the need, you can contact me, I do my best to get the maximum benefit for you! I hope to see the wonderful products you create in the video that follows.
A very honest review and you're taking more blame than you should... to your credit though. It's good that Certiflat was willing to replace the table, but I'm not impressed with the "quality". A smaller table would have probably have been okay, but the tolerances are still unacceptable.
maybe emery cloth the metal and possibly add grease or lubricant before pressing bushings in. thank you for the video. have to do change some on a sk650.
I've been looking for a fab table but I don't like the looks of this tab things I want it to look flat and shiny. I don't want all these little weld tabs everywhere so I'll probably save up until I can afford a good cast iron or steel forged table
It was damaged doing shipping. I would have never received it. Or had them send me a new table. Putting it together you have to be patient and make sure that it's flat before you weld it. Even without a flat surface. Again I believe that shippings damaged it. You'll never get it flat. I've been watching these online for a year. A purchase my own 5 by 10 plasmacam table to build these. I'm sorry that your table was damaged in shipping. I hope by now that you got everything worked out. Best regards Michael...
Ypu stated multiple times that you are a Metal Guy... A Metal Guy should know size and weight and his abilities.... Instead of "Not Blaming" the company you should spend the time and make it 100% perfect
And that I did! I spent the time to list it for sale and then delivered it to somebody that feels it will be 100% perfect for them and their shop. Then I spent the time to design and build (still in progress) my own fixture table, far heavier duty and far cheaper, that will be 100% perfect for me and my shop.
It seems to me that the table dogs with the o-ring and threads are meant to be tightened in two steps with the o-ring above the table, the first step is to use the allen to expand the ball clamp below the table, then with the o-ring preventing the dog from dropping into the hole, you tighten the upper portion down to the table with a wrench until it pulls tight to the surface. This would give you a dog that has no play against the table. You can see that the distance from the balls to the o-ring appears similar to the thickness of the top. The o-ring would probably also help prevent the whole thing from rotating while tightening.
I just purchased two harbor freight fixture welding tables, the holes are perfect and tight, im suprised you have holes that are too big for that much money. great video thanks for the info
Great video. I've been recommended several of these trailer videos lately for some reason and the video was entertaining and informative. One thing other videos go over is where to look for the VIN# to help ensure the trailer isn't stolen. A random grind mark near where a VIN is normally found would be a dead giveaway!
Video, posted over 7 years ago discussing assembly, welding sequences and flipping the table, etc.; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_OGhO1JaC0k.htmlsi=pCFUsGBXgTSpXWP_
Do a 2 piece. That’s what I would do in my situation as space is limited. From your videos you do have a large work space but it is always nice to be able to move a table when you need to.
Hey there J Bar! Had a question about wanting to buy 5th wheel frame for trailer to ultimately build tiny house on top. What questions and things should I look for when talking to seller?
That is a pretty loaded question, honestly. Probably the biggest thing would be inspect it for cracks, mainly up in the “gooseneck” area and where it connects to the lower frame. 5th wheel frames are built super light, borderline flimsy, so building a tiny house might be a task but with enough reinforcing, im sure it can be done. See what size axles it has, you will want at least 6k, 7k and larger would be better. Big thing to remember, RV’s are built light weight as possible, a tiny house is usually built more like a house and can end up WAY heavier…
@@jbarstrailerfab Thank you so much for responding so quickly. Would you recommend sending detailed pictures a welder to make sure I don’t overlook certain things. While also seeing if the trailer is actually worth buying?
They’re actually pretty easy to get flat. You will need a long straight edge but it’s doable. Assemble it upright and and clamp it with allthread or u bolts like you did. But you absolutely need to weld the tabs on top of the table. Otherwise you have a huge sheet of 1/4 inch with holes in it.
Every channel who got one of these couldn’t get it flat to the company’s standards. And these standards aren’t the highest in the industry. A major problem is that you need a very flat surface for the panel to lay on to do this properly. A straightedge won’t suffice as the top plate will conform to the flatness of the floor. For smaller tables it’s not too much of a problem, such as a 2 x 3, but as you get larger than about 3 x 4, it does become a serious problem. You should TIG weld all the slots on outside surfaces so you don’t MiG weld lumps you have to grind down. I question why someone would need a table this size in the first place unless they’re building massive structures. I’m sorry so many problems occurred. But honestly folks, assembly needs to be carefully thought out BEFORE you order a product, not after. I bought a 3 x 4 Sigmund table, on sale for $3165 (plus shipping). It’s far better than Certiflat. Not even close, really. A 4 x 8 is $7,000. Since he spent over $6,000, a Sigmund would have been better. It’s a 1/2” hardened tool steel casting RC 60, nitrided surface so it doesn’t rust or collect BBs. It meets aerospace standards as to surface flatness. I have nothing to do with Sigmund other than having bought a table and fixtures. Ok, why they’re made bigger. They’re made bigger because they’re not 5/8”, they’re 16mm. 16mm is the standard. It’s about 2.5 hundredths of an inch bigger than 5/8”. A long time ago, it was 5/8”, then the standard went metric as every standard has done (live with it guys!). 5/8” fixtures do work, but they’re a small amount more wiggly. It’s fine. Just understand that most fixtures these days might be tight with 5/8” holes as everything is now made for 16mm. I don’t recommend making a table with 5/8” holes. As far as getting a table flat goes, your legs matter a lot. You HAVE to flatten the table by adjusting the leg height. What I see here is that the wheel height isn’t adjustable. That’s bad. The Sigmund wheel height is adjustable. And unless you plan to move your table around, don’t buy wheels, buy legs with adjustable pads. Get a long builders level such as a Stabila, the length of the table, which is the flattest, and use that to level your table, which if done properly, will also flatten it. You will have a big problem doing that with this. I guarantee your floor is not flat. Good luck. They do make tables up to 5/8” thickness, if you think this one is heavy.
how much did this cost you apart from materials? sorry if you said it in the video I probably missed it. I'm in highschool running a very very small fab shop and no way am I paying 600 bucks for a 2' x 4' table that's only 3/16 thick from certiflat lol, love the table videos!.
This 4x10 piece of 1/2” A572 Grade50 plate and the laser cutting cost a little over 2500. But that was the cutting AND the material. He quoted me on plain ole A36 1/2” plate and it was almost 1k cheaper
