Reviews on Automotive mechanic tools, tool boxes, truck and car parts, sharing work on my LBZ Duramax truck, and showing how dealership mechanics work to make everybody’s life a little bit easier! I also have a 2020 Can Am Maverick X3 XRC Turbo RR that is being built for SEMA this year! Not to mention the lift kits, product reviews and general BA stuff I’m always getting into. Stay tuned in for my (at least) weekly videos!
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The only way I’m affording snap on right now is because I’m a current auto student and use their SEP program to get everything 40-48% off new, and the 1/2” drive 9050 impact gun with 2 batteries and charger kit is still more than a full price Milwaukee equivalent!
Great info sir!! I do have a quick question so you know the AC condensers usually if you try to buy a OEM one they’re very expensive but you can buy aftermarket ones. Do you think the aftermarket cheap ones do a great job what they’re supposed to do rather than going back with the OEM one? Thanks
2021 gladiator, 30k miles, crankshaft replaced 3 times, valve springs replaced, mat sensor replaced... now filling for the lemon law as the crankshaft went out again.
I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and the fuse for the compressor clutch keeps popping. Would that indicate and issue with the compressor going bad? The clutch is not locking. Fuse pops as soon as i hit the A/C button.
I'm curious about going in the opposite direction more of a (matte/dull/or chalkboard black)with the traditional 2K Raptor Liner on a rock crawler. Keeping an extra can of 2K Raptor Liner for any touchups, that the inevitable scratching of the coating receives due to use after all rock crawlers tend to bump into things alot. What do you think? Of should I just be content with the regular finish of the 2K Raptor Liner? Thanks
Milwaukee, and as an electrician, Klein have both stepped up their games amazingly the last 5 years. Phased out almost all of my DeWalt stuff some time ago. Innovation, no one's keeping up with Milwaukee right now
so you diagnose that a fuel pump negative wire is corroded. it takes 5 minutes to splice in a new wire segment.? that is the truth. laughable that they cant even fix one wire. this field in automtive work is like an open ended check to vulnerable customers. and yes they cannot even fix one wire for you that most times is easy to access. then they act like all this work is a secret. I am very new to this diagnosis dilemma, but this is filled with lies and secrets. this stuff all have shortcuts to find issues. they wont tell you to use AMP readings on the mulitmeter, connected to the BAttery negative post on one lead, and the removed negative battery cable then pull fuses to find if any of them are causing a draw
Small shop foreman here in southern Ontario. 2 apprentices, 2 technicians (including myself). Flat rate with a guarantee, bonus on tech and apprentice hours per row and on shop hours per ro. We have much less equipment to look after and special tools but do mostly the same as you.
Snap on only warranty if the hand tool is in production I seen this happen 20 years ago when I went to warranty a broken wrench and they said not in production any longer zero warranty (I seen this with Mac tools or Stanley tools ) 1/2 drill 13 years sent in for rebuild and rejected tool planned obsolescence tools can't get parts to repair so they can sell a new drill $850 13 years later after buying snap on I won't be investing any longer in snap on !
I started as a new tech, I had no training from anybody and no one wanted to help me with anything. I broke a bolt 🔩 on a motorcycle fork leg and the amount of shit I got for that one mistake was unbelievable. I then had a valve snap on a tyre, and again the shit I got was ridiculous. I left 2 weeks after and that was that. Never again.
My dewalt and craftsman tools specs are better then every snap on tools I have researched. Snap on is a joke that just rips people off on price just because their name "Snap on" is on the product. You can spend your money how ever you want but it's such a waste of money buying stuff like $25000 9n a tool box.
I recently had a $1,000 repair on a 13 year old Hyundai Sante Fe from a fair mechanic I've used for years. It was legit. I got the vehicle from an old lady for only $4k when it had 85,000 miles. I carry the minimum amount of insurance on it, don't care if it gets scratched or dinged, and I trust it on long day trips. You bet I paid for the repair! At some point a cheap 13 year old vehicle is going to have issues. My goal is to give it to my son in 6 months when he gets his driver's license. Every year you can avoid buying a car over your driving years saves you money, especially with the price of vehicles today.
This video is 4 years old. Things have definitely changed for people asking themselves this question. I own several cars and the maintenance they require here and there is still waaaaaaay cheaper than buying new. My Ram 1500 cost me $684 a month. It’s a nice truck…cosmetically, but the ECU went out at just 40k miles (not covered under warranty). They also discovered a cracked exhaust manifold when repairing my ECU (luckily covered under warranty). They just don’t make them like they used to. As a car enthusiast I have also found it extremely satisfying to buy a $5,000 beater, and completely restore it. They treat me well and have been far more reliable than the 3 vehicles I purchased new during my lifetime. Ignore the people that say it isn’t worth putting money into based off of some damn Kelly Blue Book, or what insurance will give you for it. The car is what you make it! You can build reliability!!! In my opinion a $50,000+ loan over years of your life is rarely the better option.
Wouldn't it get dirty quick and easy and hold the dust and dirt, maybe not squirt off as easy, I have a Hiace van, the high roof and it cops the brunt of the weather and bird crap and I was thinking about this maybe thinned a bit so there isn't quite as much texture. I like how tough it is because the van being so high often gets trees scuffing on the roof somewhere.
