🎬 Welcome to DRICORE Products - Evolving the Basement Renovation Industry 💯
DRICORE®️ Subfloor is the one-step engineered subfloor solution! ➡️ DRICORE Subfloor panels have been designed with Air Gap Technology to help keep your floors dry, comfortable and cozy throughout the entire year. The raised panels lift finished floors off the damp, cold concrete to help protect, insulate and cushion your finished floors. DRICORE is the first and most important step towards creating a new living space as warm and comfortable as any other space in your home. ➡️ Whether you’re looking for products to help finish your basement properly, or you’re searching for some home renovation inspiration, this channel is dedicated to sharing must-know industry hacks. All DRICORE Products are built with homeowners in mind, thoughtfully designed, and easy to install ✅
➡️ Watch everything from tutorials, guides, and trending topics when you subscribe to the DRICORE channel 🔝
Just subbed Hello from lower Hudson Valley NY. Been tracking your product for a while. Now getting ready for purchase DC and flooding. Questions I have are 1. can peel and stick floor be adhered to DC without any additional materials? Straight on to the DC OSB. 2. Is an underpayment required on the concrete prior to install to possibly mitigate any damp or musty odors? Will have the area with vapor barrier walls, insulated, Drywall, heating, dehumidifier on outer surroundings. It would be a great help to my starting my project. (80sqft) Thank you in advance. God bless
I want to put the dricore down first. Then my framing on top. Can I drill the frame thru the dricore, into the concrete without compromising the dricore?
I just completed 400' sq. of my basement floor with this stuff. I then applied laminate flooring and did not use any underlayment (e.g. Quietwalk, etc.). Then I did another 65' sq in my basement bathroom (which I built during Covid 19). I am please with how it all came out. It all feels very firm, solid and noise free. However, I think it might also have to do with the fact that my laminate flooring is just slightly shy of 1/2" thick (12mm). Where I had to abutt the Insul-armor and couldn't use the tongue and groove (in a few places) I simply applied a generous amount of Tuck Tape and all seems well. Hope I'll be able to repeat this message in a couple of years. Paul
I have purchased this already...plus, waterproof laminate flooring for basement. Hope to begin this week. QUESTION: Steve, would you use a felt underlay (like QuietWalk for example) on top of the Insul-Armor? Thanks Paul R.
'Click' floating flooring over DRI-C , maybe, if your basement floor is close to dead level, if not you are likely to have oil canning or noticeable flexing.
These aren't as easy as the video makes them out to be. The concept is simple. The practice is vastly different with the materials I got anyway. They don't easily slip into the groove. I needed a hammer to bang them in. I used a hackzall to cut them. I'd be here 3 months with a hand saw. Bottom line. It's a cool system when you get past the learning curve, but if it were me, for the cost of this, I would have just just with drywall. It doesn't save that much time unless your ceilings are at 8'. Most basements where I live they're well under.7'. I'd give it a 6 if I had to rate it.
dricore products are a waste of money. Better to get something like DMX 1 step, then cover that with a better 3/4 OSB and tapcon to your concrete. Then you can add literally whatever flooring you want on top, and it will last years. If you go with this foam product, you can only add 1 type of flooring.
It would be far cheaper to source your own 2" rigid foam panels for the walls, install dricore floor panels to those, and then put traditional framing on top of the subfloor a half inch away from your rigid foam. Then fill the cavities with traditional fiberglass insulation and use green moisture resistant drywall. Nobody wants to work with systems like this when it comes to installing your mechanicals/electric/plumbing
Most if not all building codes require the basement to be insulated below grade so seems the extra foam insulation is not required and the panel should be sold without it or am I missing something.
Hi, I recently purchased your product from Home Depot. I have split level home and one of the bathrooms has a concrete floor that is below grade. Please let me know when installing your product 2’x2’ panels. Do I still need to put a moisture barrier underneath these panels? Before I Install them, I am installing XPR waterproof vinyl flooring that has 4mm composite core + 1.5mm luxury vinyl top layer + 1mm IXPE underlayment. Please let me know.
Just to put into perspective carrying 6 boxes of this down into my basement took about 3 minutes flat !!!! Carrying the engineered hardwood took me 30 minutes. Even my wife helped, well with one box.....LOL
Just did this. I found out it’s pretty important to really build up epoxy around the base of the ports. I had a couple that started leaking around the base because I didn’t use enough. Heads up to anybody watching this in the future.
Hey, I have a question about using this to install in a basement with added in floor french drains and access to the drain cleanouts? Is there a recommended process?
Great idea but outrageously expensive for an EPS foam board, coming in at $2.25 sq/ft. If this was half the price it might be able to take the market by storm, but at this price level it will remain a niche product for custom homes where budget isn't as much of a consideration. The other problem is the product is not skinned on the bottom providing no vapor protection, even if it did the seems would need to be taped to have continuous seal. Studies have show when eps absorbs moisture, which it will from over concrete, EPS looses some of it R-value. It would seem a vapor barrier would be advisable under this product to prevent such issues.
WOW...under 1lb! AWESOME...I'm feel so lucky I'm living TODAY with this tech and I'm going to lay it! RIGHT ON! Hey do you teach a course or something? At your house or somewhere?
EXACTLY what I was looking for as answer right here! @ 7:27 Thanks YOU nice lookin man! Your VERY WELL informed on this! Just picked up 2 boxes of this at Home Depot Sault Ontario to lay down in the Gazebo and I'm using LifeProof Luxury Locking Vinyl! I know I'll void warranties etc using it outside in a well sealed Gazebo however the simplicity of DriCore and Vinyl will produce amazing results not to forget the time and ease of install savings! PS your on the Manitou Island correct?
I would like to put peel and stick flooring down.can I put this right on the dircore or do i need plywood in-between? Also Should I waterproof the plywood?
Great video. Thank you. I’m converting my outdoor shed with concrete slab to a workshop. It gets very cold in winter so thinking of putting this down. I would like to put a nicer floor on top of it. Can you recommend what kind of floor to put on top of this product for outside? Thank you
2 questions because i'm planning to buy your product on the home depot website. 1- do we need to inject water in the crack before to activate the polyuretane ? 2- my crack is not really a crack, it is a joint between an old and a newer concrete wall (house/basement was extended 20 years ago, and the waterproofing they used worn out over the time and water leak in). The problem is the joint is in a corner, so how do i install the plugs ? Do i need to drill holes on one side in 45 degrees to reach the joint, seal the corner joint with epoxy and use the drilled hole with the plug to fill the crack with the product ??!!
I’m pretty sure no water is needed. I’ve seen plenty of videos using similar products and they do them the same way. That is, glue the plugs on with epoxy, cover the area with epoxy then inject the foam into the plugs to fill the cracks.
Somebody help me please, video did not sat to inject water in before inject expand foam, but what I know, polyurethane need water to reaction expand, my question is do I need to inject water inside crack before I inject expand foam ?
Coming from someone who does this as a living and has 20+ years in the business stopping water under low and very high pressures, I highly frown on this method. First off, for tight cracks the urethane will not penetrate and even if it did, you MUST use water to wet the concrete the entire diameter of the wall thickness. Without that the properties of the urethane cannot change from open cell to closed cell which makes it approximately 4x more dense. This is what prevents the water from coming through. This method will simply not last as it can take up to 2500 psi to open up a tight crack in concrete and for that special equipment is required so the psi can be adjusted in small incremental portions. First the crack should be injected with a crack cleaning agent. Second and only then it should be flushed with water. After the water stops dripping but the walls of the concrete are still wet, then inject the urethane. None of which is done in this video. Also this method should NEVER be done on horizontal cracks regardless of the size of crack as they are structural in nature unlike vertical cracks. Epoxy injection must be used for that and must meet all ASTM standards. Unfortunately this and other DYI kits fail not because the customer doesn't want to do the right thing and follow the instructions setout. The process itself is completely flawed and should not be sold in my professional opinion.
@quan do Yes, Before injecting the urethane, the inside walls of the concrete must be wet all the way through the concrete wall. The water must be used because once the urethane mixes with it, it changes the properties of the urethane from open cell to closed cell which makes the urethane very dense which keeps the water out. open cell foams are definitely not waterproof or water resistant. Rather, open cell foams can hold a tremendous volume of water. Lower density closed cell foams are water resistant but not completely waterproof. However, higher density closed cell foams can be waterproof. In my 20+ years when done properly i have not seen urethane fail when the procedure is done correctly (unlike what this product process outlines) unless the concrete from the outside is under tremendous pressure from water. Ouside a house will not bring that kind of pressure. Hope this helps
How deep into the concrete should the Concrete Screw go? Note: (Storage room) We are using the 3/4 inch Dricore subfloor system. The next project will be the entire basement installation will be the insul-armor, which has a very unlevel floor.
The carbon fiber reinforcement kit can add strength to any concrete structure, including concrete swimming pools, as long as it's coated over/protected after installation. Whether or not the crack can be injected, however, is on a case-by-case basis. Kindly reach out to our customer service team if you have any questions about a particular project!