They were printed flat. I believe the thinnest part was 3x 0.3mm layers, and I made sure that it printed with an orientation so the first and third layer were using lines directly perpendicular to the hinge.
Since my slicer is set to do infill at 45deg, I rotated the part 45 deg in the XY plane to match. Then I previewed the gcode to confirm the first layer was across the hinge. That said, having the first layer lines 45deg relative to the hinge may be totally fine with multiple layers. I did it this way because I've made living hinges for fun with a single layer and that is best if it's perpendicular. May not matter here. Let me know how it goes
@FirstNameLastName-gh9iw I actually realized after I did this that I forgot to reduce the line width and height, which means it was trying to extrude about 5x the upper limit of how much plastic the hotend can melt per second. That might have created the blobbing. I've done a 6.5min benchy on this printer, which is pretty impressive considering it's a huge printer (400mm^3). I simply botched this setup. Probably more fun for the kids that way 😄 Printing faster does sometimes help. Especially in reducing stringing and oozing.
Well i'm hooked so much so i went a bought one to play with. Hoping it will help me with designing parts for my trikes i have, it's the little touches that make it worth while. Very impressed with the turntable setup would be interested in it for a couple of smaller pieces i need to do. You said you designed it do you sell the files or can i get them from somewhere. I have a very old turn table like 10 yrs i think but doesn't work properly anymore. any help would be great like i said love your work. .
Excellent video concept, more show... and less numbers. In terms of making a cell phone case, what's your final recommendation? My "drops" are usually from about waist height?
i also fixed the z leadscrew backlash problem with the mpcnc but i approached it differently. i bought a second brass nut , flipped it upside down from the original, spun it backwards till the holes lined up and used longer screws to take out the backlash. same as your method but like a spring pushing the nuts together instead of apart.
Quick Correction: I said in the video that camera calibration was pretty bad. I have since redone calibration with a properly aligned honeycomb bed on top of the slats, and kept the calibration pattern within the 400x400 square (instead of to the edge of the machine which is way bigger). The calibration is nearly perfect now!
It's a great job, but let's not forget how we got here - the community behind MPCNC is amazing, and going off on a few imperfections isn't the look. I don't know if I would lean into CNC.js that might, as they have essentially abandoned the project.
There are screws that drop through the lead scream nut into the top of the core so that the lead screw isnt just free spinning. Did you use longer ones that drop through the entire double lead screw setup? Please advise
Almost! You do need longer screws to get through the bottom printed fixture half and lead screw nut, instead of just through the nut. And you separately need screws to fix the top nut to the top fixture half. Then 4 more to hold them together after tightening. So yeah, it's a lot of M3 screws for this thing...
Hah! Of all the filming I've done for videos on this channel, that clip is probably my favorite. I captured my genuine astonishment at just how badly Polypropylene can jam your extruder! Thanks for watching!
Hi, I recently bought a Lenovo Yoga Book 9i with dual screens, and since there isn't a case available for it, I'd like to design a unique case. Before diving into an ambitious design, I want to start with a simple protective case. I need some advice on measuring the dimensions of my laptop accurately. I tried scanning an image of the laptop, then cropping and resizing the image to convert it from PNG to OBJ, but it didn't go as planned. What is the best way to measure my laptop for this purpose? Additionally, I am planning to 3D print the case using SainSmart TPU 95A. Can you provide guidance on how to proceed with the measurements and 3D printing?
Thanks. Nice job. And thanks for the stabilizers too. I'm cutting them now. Maybe you are the guy that could come up with a push style clamp for the warped boards???
This is one of the greatest reviews I've seen. Thank you! Also I'll appreciate if you could give me a couple of recommendations for mesh mixer tutorials or channels to follow. Thanks again
I think that chemical adhesion has its limits for parts sticking to beds and can be annoyingly temperamental. I'm surprised that more mechanical solutions haven't been explored -- ie. special base layer that can be clipped, or fastened to a surface for a perfect, heat-free "adhesion" to the build plate.
Like you said -Ditch those slats and use a honeycomb bed. The blade slats were a “cool” idea but in reality the honeycomb provides the much needed stability. I’m still dialing in my settings for deep relief 3D greyscale engravings and almost there :) I’m still very happy and impressed with the Falcon 2 Pro and its capabilities. Cheers
Marking spray has silica in it. You are basically putting a ceramic coating in when it heats it. The stuff is permanent and lasts travel to space. NASA uses it. If you can rub it off or remove it chemically you didn't get it hot enough. I've worked with cermark a lot it's great when used right. Just dial in the settings. Tempra paint and glass let's you do engraving in clear glass. I made a video on it a few years back. These machines are coming along but I'm still convinced co2 is the only way to go. Thanks for a great review.
Good to know! I rubbed it pretty hard and you can see that there was still quite a bit of unaltered squares left in the lower right corner where the most laser energy went into the markings. I assumed that it would come off eventually too, but maybe not. I will add this knowledge to my toolbox: cermark + aluminum + diode can work! I haven't spent that much time with lasers, most of my time has been 3D printing and CNC machining. If I were to get another one, I would definitely want to go CO2 so I can do acrylics. But for the price, I can live with the limitations of this machine, and the diode laser still achieves plenty of accuracy and reliability on things it does cut/engrave. Thanks for watching!
You can’t measure a 3d print to see the accuracy of a 3d scanner. 3d printing has around 0.2mm tolerance and the material will shrink depending on the geometry too.
You're right that there is additional error introduced by the printing process, on top of model error. It's possible that the error in the model was actually slightly more or slightly less than what I measured. However, I have calibrated that printer pretty rigorously, and I know it prints approx within 0.1-0.2mm of what I design. Even at max printing error, I think that the results I measured are still very favorable for this budget 3d scanner. I also know to scale up to 100.5% when printing with ABS, but I generally don't need model scaling with PLA or PETG. So, you're not wrong, I'm just on top of that, because I built that printer myself and gone to great lengths to figure out it's tolerances. Thanks for watching!
I mean, I bought a 40w K40 for $400. And it can cut/engrave far better than this thing. I spent another $300 putting it into a frame that ended up giving me a 16"x12" volume to work with, and I'm still cheaper and more capable than this.
Unfortunately, I don't have a ton of experience with consumer laser engravers, so I may not be the best person to debate this with you. I will say I'm surprised to see so many inexpensive 40W CO2 lasers out there. But it sounds like you ultimately ended up with a DIY laser machine build, which of course is going to lean cheaper. The Falcon2 required some assembly, but it's a complete machine. I wouldn't call it a DIY machine. It looks like the key differences are (at least compared to the OMTECH k40-based machine): * Falcon2's 22W can cut up to 10mm wood (20mm for 40W). K40 claims only 3mm cutting depth (probably really short depth of focus). I'm not 100% on this point thought * Integrated overhead camera in the Falcon2. * You say you put your laser into a frame, does it include the eye-safe panels? Is it "really" safe & sealed? Is it "really" enclosed so it's easy to vent? * There's a lot of safety features on the Falcon2 Pro -- particularly the door sensor that turns off the laser and pauses it when opened. Also, the e-stop button on the front, and the fire and lens obstruction detection directly on the laser module. * The volume on the Falcon2 is a bit more generous. I'm not trying to bash your system by any means, just pointing out that I believe there is an actual value proposition behind the Falcon2, as a mid-range laser option. You might be right to argue that it's still too expensive, but I'd argue it's not excessively overpriced. I also see plenty of CO2-based machines that cost way more.
top class video, much appreciated. Building a CNC myself right now but I am using the approach which u see in onefinity. I use 4 pcs 1100 mm 40 mm solid rod linear rods for Y axis and 1700 mm of the same for the gantry. Not sure about the Z axis at the moment but it's pretty straightforward. I'll add a laser as well and possibly some other attachments but not sure. It will run on rootCNC, a grbl based solution and the motors for all all axes with encoders, to make it more reliable I hope. The movement is done with 2 x 16/10 ballscrews on Y and 1 x 16/10 on the X axis. The base and gantry will prob be printed for the beginnig or made of some plywood but when I'm confident it works it will be replaced with solid steel and/or some epoxygranite cast parts. We'll see. Have some fun time on that beast you built man!
Printing gears in TPU is an INCREDIBLE idea. Well done. In fact, the flexibility may outlive ridged gears in environments where sand and dust can work themselves into the mechanism: it may be possible to leave them exposed (provided no fingers or large objects can reach), reducing the need for enclosure. And modifying thickness may be an effective strategy at increasing load capacity. Cleverly integrated capillaries may even make these self oiling as well! Silent, durable, and flexible (eg. sand/dust pass through teeth).
I never did. This printer ended up being my workhorse, and I never wanted to put it out of commission long enough to try that. It also was kind of an experimental upgrade in the community. At this point, if I'll probably just build a V-core-4 which has a native IDEX option. I plan to use it primarily for support materials, but also for duplicating/mirroring to print multiple parts at once.
Nice upgrades! What Kobalt router model are you using? Reason why I ask is because I have a Kobalt router and was hoping to commandeer it for my build, but always thought it was too heavy. Would be cool to know if it’s the same as yours.
I bought this one directly from Lowes. Read the linked article, apparently designed in coordination with the MPCNC guy. Only $100, and I'm m extremely happy with it so far. I've probably done 50 hrs with it. www.v1e.com/blogs/news/kobalt-router-featuring-the-lr3
