i’ve been trying to look for a video but all the ones i get are for n54 are the vanos actuators the same as the solenoids on n54 since f30 are newer they changed?
You can not replace the lines without removing the turbo. The leaks are normally not from the o-rings, they are from the rubber part of the lines, which over time crack and start leaking.
What are the names of the tools you used? I need that same ratchet. Or similar. Everything I have seems to big to fit back there to remove the vacuum pump. Yours looks perfect.
www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/ratchets/14-in-38-in-drive-long-reach-dual-flex-head-ratchet-67994.html www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/ratchets/14-in-38-in-drive-dual-head-ratchet-67993.html www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/ratchets/3-8-eighth-inch-heavy-duty-flexible-ratchet-96369.html You still need a short socket and you should be able to get a small torque wrench in there. If you can't fit the torque wrench, add a swivel.
You don't need to remove the mount to remove the CAT. In the video, the mount has been removed mainly to show it better. That is why the instructions don't say to remove it. Now, that being said, if you don't have a helper and you have the right tools, it takes 5 minutes to remove the mount and it gives you a lot more space to work on the clamp. Re-installing the clamp the right way sometimes is a pain, so extra space helps very much. To answer your question, if you need to remove the mount you must hold the engine.
@@goroundfun6034 Ok cool! That's what I'm going to do. I'm waiting on an engine support bar and already got pretty much all the bolts cracked loose but I'll definitely remove that motor mount control arm it makes sense to make the job easier. Thanks
@@goroundfun6034 Yeah I have the right tools. 4) E12 and a 17mm on the top of motor mount. That should be all I need to remove control arm and top 17mm nut.
Nice video... just wanted to know if the two T20 door handle screws are different lengths (if the position of each one matters) because mine don't seem to get into place properly, I mean they go inside but they are still loose... I just left them like that for now and rely on the two T30 ones that are holding the handle in place... maybe I'll remove everything again and check again why those screws don't get some grip... I checked them on the handle directly to see if they fit and they do, but somehow when I try to mount them from the panel, they remain loose, like the door handle plastic they fit in is shorter or smth like that... hope you understood my point, english is not my native language. Thanks!
the 2 t20 are the same size. Make sure that the T20 on top is the most forward screw and the one on the bottom is the most rearward. if you put the T30 screws where the T20s are supposed to go, then most likely the holes have been enlarged and you might have to fill them with epoxy.
@@user-ou3pv7ti2b yours specifically states vanos, my best bet would be the vanoss gear maybe stuck, easy way to check is take rocket cover off, turn over the engine by hand and you will see it seize up if that is the issue, if not check all the other components of the vanoss system like the solenoids and stuff see if they sticking and allowing oil through
i have 3 Errors 130308 120408 and P0015 i am thinking to change vanos exhaust system and solenoid will it be enough? thanks. your video is very well done very helpful bmw f30 320i 184ps
TO EVERYONE HERE WONDERING ⁉️ YOU DO NOT NEED TO LIFT THE ENGINE AT ALL OR LOOSEN THE MOTOR MOUNT. I JUST DID THIS AND TOOK IT OUT THRU THE BOTTOM BUT YOU CAN TAKE IT OUT FROM THE TOP ALSO‼️
how did you get out the engine bracket and that mount right under the cat there? i’m stuck on that right now don’t have enough space to slide them out and i don’t have an engine lift either
Those codes are related to low oil pressure in the Vanos system. First thing is to check the engine oil level. Check your timing, if it is fine, then you have a problem with the Vanos.
You don’t need to lift the engine at all when doing this job, or untighten the motor mount. If u remove the air intake u can remove the turbo out to the front of the engine
Is it the same for xdrive? I am literally about to start this project with close to no experience just RU-vid videos. It's a 2013 BMW 528i xdrive. Any advice?
Good video to support the FCP euro video! Word of advise, when installing ANY sensor with an O ring, make SURE the old Oring is not stuck in the hole going in with a new one on top of the old one will cause you problems, especially Cam sensors will make your car run rough thinking your timing was off, recheck your timing again…. When it is just an extra o ring messing up readings! Ask me how I know!
I comes as a set with the screws for the waste gate. Part number is 11 65 8612575. You can get it at the dealer. www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fastening-set/11658612575/
Well, I could be wrong, but these were the parts I had to order when replacing both mounts. R - 22117935148 L - 22117935147 Had work done to fix an oil leak and mounts were reinstalled in reverse. Started having vibration issues shortly after.
No, the video was part of a different job, Timing chain replacement, which I have not had time to publish yet. I have several videos that I need to edit and upload.
@@joseantoniomendivil7064 what year is the car? Mine is a 13', was no way I was pulling it out from the top, not enough room in the engine bay. As long as you have a lift that can lift the motor and hold it in place, taking the motor mount off is not hard at all.
I can't see the check valve on the oil supply line (cylinder block side). If it is a feed line without a check valve, an improved oil supply line should be installed. The problem is that the exhaust muffler shows white smoke when the car stops overnight and starts for the first time the next day. See SIB111116.
When removing the CAT 28:36, you still had the right engine mount a bracket. Does it matter the sequence or was it easier to remove the CAT without the mount first?
The CAT can be removed and installed without removing the mount. For this job the mount had to be removed and it is easier to reinstall the CAT before the mount. You are refering to 28:36, that is not the removal of the CAT, it is only tor torqueing of the bracket for the CAT.
