@@boatwerks there was a shelly foss tugboat at an antique shop near me I saw the other day. I went in for a closer look then I noticed they were asking 200 for it. That is when I backed away and looked at other stuff.
I had a Dumas Miss Unlimited that was just like yours. I replaced the plastic parts with real mahogany to match the veneers. Had an ASP .12 marine engine with a pull start. Cool little boat
@@IRONCLADRC I thought about doing a cheap budget challenge. You find a hull used or cheap and rc it. Meanwhile I pull out this ringer hydro that with some modern electrics that flys. But I didnt since I dont know when I will get it together.
Cool build your daughter will be so happy. It was me that screwed the house to the blocks another trick is you can glue 1/2 inch wood square stock in the push knees to make rhem wider and longer i also bolted them on
My kits had like 10-12 push knees, they could be 3/4+ wide with the parts in the kit. But my daughter thought about having some on the front and some on the back. I have a couple of 360* servos that I thought about putting a winch on it.
I have not broken any flex cables. I have only ran it a handful of times. I did buy one spare incase it breaks. I have not checked to see if it is the same as the mini outboard either.
I love the nostalgia of all of those boats the jackson outboard is way cool I believe they came with a 380 or a 540 as standard. Thanks for showing the boats and motors
I've stayed away from painting as much as possible, because I always found it somewhat daunting. When I decided to tackle the American Spirit, I thought I would learn as much as possible up front. One of the most important things (maybe second only to surface preparation) is masking tape. Home Depot, Lowe's, and Ace DO NOT sell masking tape for modelers; they sell masking tape for house painters. I used Tamiya tape almost exclusively, but I had this thin Nitto tape that was more like electrical tape than your typical masking tape that I used for the canopy when I needed curved lines. When applying tape, carefully burnish the paint side edge, especially if you have tape overlaps. Get in there with your fingernail and get the tape firmly seated the entire masked area and especially those pesky corners. Your first coat of paint should be a medium-light dusting from about 12" away along the masked edge and throughout the entire area to be painted. You should still see LOTS of the base color below what you just shot. Let it dry for a minute or two and repeat a couple more times. The idea is to put down something so thin, that it partially dries before it hits the surface and slowly build that up along the tape edge. This "seals" the tape edge and the next coats can go on thicker in later coats.
I know there is better tape out there. I have gotten better results than I got this time with the same tape. I was impatient with this one. The more I tried to make it better the worse I made it. Right now I am considering it a base coat. It will get a repaint in the future after I get some enjoyment out of it and want a better look for it again.
I went the extra steps of putting glazing putty on it to get it smooth. I think my problem is I got flat white paint and tried to clear coat it then put the blue on.
i did my dumas KV with the Miami Vice boat look and it came out great....went with two brushless motors powering outdrives.....I was able to get the detail kit from dumas only a few years ago..but i don't they sell it any more..had the railings and all the other detail parts....good luck on your project..
I'm interested in the specs of your motors and batteries. I love the Miami Vice boat look, but it feels like everyone does that look. I am thinking the Kaama graphics on the sides.
I've got one of these that I built 20years ago. Installed hardware, OS 45 rear rotary valve engine painted orange white and silver. Never ran it. Its just sitting up in the rafters of my garbage...
Cool, that is about the same color as my SK Daddle Too. White, orange, with silver metal flake over the orange. I have some videos of that on my channel.
What motor/prop? If you are using that 4000Kv green outrunner on 2S, start with an X427. That will allow the motor to spin up where it's more efficient and not eating as much current.
Those plastic props are pretty inefficient. The CNC aluminum props can be had in appropriate sizes at fair price, check OSE. (I'd start with X430 or X630 with your setup). I like letting the motors spin up a bit, things seem to hold up a little longer with a lighter load on things.
@@Dr_Jet I got plastic props because it gets me in the ball park for a metal prop. Plus with one of my other boats when I did a maiden it got stuck wide open throttle and ran into the shore. It broke the plastic prop off the shaft otherwise it would have made another run across the water with the front split open. I do have a 430 prop I can try, the atlas likes the 32.
Yeah, I do run my Atlas with an X632 and it really likes it, but for the shovelnose, I slow it down a lot with the smaller prop and get stupid long run times,@@brandoncocola1322
Yeah, you can barely make out what's going on when it's close. I will do another video in the day time. This was only maybe 10 minutes after the SK Jr run.
Yeah, I have the 1/8" flex shaft. But it may need a deeper strut or bigger prop because it took a second for it to catch off the start. It was too cold to mess with props and was getting dark.
