if i take them super early spring before budbreak, i separate them after the last freeze and i see leaves are open and green. if i take them late spring after leaves have hardened off, ill separate late summer when it starts cooling off. using coco coir/ perlite mix, maybe at about 80/20.
@@jsmith1174 this year i had some seeds that had been in the fridge through January and in February i soaked them for 24hrs and planted them outside. ive also just took them out the pack, soaked them for a couple days and then planted outside. they like to sprout when daytime temps are getting to 70°f and nighttime temps are above 40°f, so i try to give them the cold treatment a month before these temps come around in my area, usually march. fresher the seed, the higher the % that will pop.
@@jonathanhaag81 i actually have to start over because they froze last winter. i was going to plant another batch anyway. this time im going to try zelkova seedling cuttings like i do pines.
Can i ask what time of year you did the big trunk chop on this lovely little tree? ive got a fairly large maple that was reduced at the end of last season but its not really a good species for bonsia as the leaves are very large. its a grafted tree with a nice base and root spread. it started to die off at the top so i thought i might just chop it down to the acer palmatum graft as it started to put out some good shoots. im just worried i'll kill it if i do it at the wrong time.
@@TomLongAnimation safest time to make a big chop is after the first flush of growth in spring has extended and the leaves have hardened off. in my case i chopped around mid may. only do big work if the tree looks very healthy.
fantastic, I tried your same technique by watching your video step by step, one thing doesn't make sense to me, once you've made the cuttings, do you put them under a plastic dome but do you spray the cuttings every day? I'm doing this now that in Italy it's 32° and it's summer... I have little success, should I do it in other seasons in your opinion? thanks
@@danielpavone97 this particular one i didn't use a dome. ive since changed my method a little bit; I plant seeds in february(60°f day/30°f night) in coco coir/perlite and they're usually up and ready to be cut in mid may(80°/57°). i put cuttings in sifted perlite/vermiculite and i keep them in a tote under the bench for about three weeks. i put them out in the sun in june(88°/65°) here's what it looks like later in this more recent video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V5J7flBFFMU.htmlsi=gGdVMk1XWDDJ0Q6j i water the substrate before i make holes. i starting using a syringe to drip a glob of clonex on the hole before i put the cutting in. then i press the substrate to anchor the cutting. i then put them in the opaque plastic tote for at least a week before checking if i need to water the substrate. i usually don't have to water till after the first roots are coming out and the cutting won't twist when you touch it. no misting. the perlite/vermiculite combo is free draining but retains enough moisture to keep humidity high inside the tote/ dome. i don't have good success taking cuttings in summer. just too hot. need a cool spot.
I will follow your advice to do everything in cooler months, I wanted to know another thing, the cut is not always done when the stem turns purple, it happened to me on several plants that the central needles grew but the stem remained green for a long time, do you have any advice on this? then as a last thing I wanted to know the second cut how long do you wait between the first and the second to do another cut? thanks
@@danielpavone97 you know, i haven't continued to try double cuttings. only one time in that video. i didn't see much difference in rooting the first time i tried, but i don't think i cut close enough to the needles on the second cut to make a difference. i think i should've cut 5mm from the needles. timing wise, you would make the second cut when you see the cutting start to grow strong again. the last two years I've been cutting about 10mm from the needles and it's working well. i don't really go by the stem color when deciding to take cuttings, because like you've noticed, there's a lot of genetic variance between seedlings. i look at how strong the needles are growing. when you cut high the stem is almost always green close to the needles anyway.
in fact, I had seen the same thing thank you very much, for the moment I'm doing like you with the dome to maintain humidity, without too many claims, in a few months I'll replant the seeds so as to have the cuttings ready in the cool months and after that I should have more positive results. for the moment I have 6 seedlings with roots out of 15 so a little less than 50% let's hope. thank you very much anyway for everything
Damn, that’s gonna be a badass little bonsai someday!! Kotohime maples have such tiny internodes and leaves sorta like Shishigashira maples. How long u been growing that Kotohime? Thanks for sharing
@@DarthMasiah My last you tube videos are probably from 2 years ago. Should be good if you can see my posts in my bonsai groups. They are like a diary of my tree's progress.
@@samuelmula5570 i haven't tried any airlayers yet. but i did find this video recently on airlayering jbp ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uHdxJXA0lL0.htmlsi=d3ReshxD5Y5tNJ8-
Hi, I love your videos, i'm kinda new into bonsai (around 1 year fully into it). I sowed about 20's pines this winter into a colander and they're now around 10 cm. The things is that I live in a flat and I have a balcony which give me alot of light but no direct sunlight, they're constantly in shade. Is it a big problem for them in the future?
@@nhochamvui6070 i start out with coco coir/perlite for first couple years, and then move to pumice/lava mix. these older pines were repotted last in bonsaijack inorganic mix.
@@backbudbonsai the biggest cutting I've taken was pencil size. when it gets over 10mm thick you might as well airlayer. i had good success taking cuttings of the last years shoots right as the buds were swelling, and mid spring when the leaves at the base of the new shoots are about hardened off and they're around a 100mm long. the hotter it gets the more you have to protect and baby them.
yeah. ive been using peter's professional 20 20 20 at 2g per gallon about every two weeks. i also give them real growers recharge (a microbe/kelp/humic acid) once a month.
at the moment im using coco/perlite for seed starting sifted perlite/vermiculite for cuttings coco/perlite for one to to two year old cuttings pumice/lava/fired clay for older trees.
these low shoots are really sacrifice branches, too. just as these shoots came from adventitious needle buds on the main trunk, the final branches will be selected from adventitious buds closer to the base of these low shoots; though probably more like the adventitious buds of those buds. in the first zoomed in shot you can see some small needle buds coming out. these are what we cut back to to compact the size of the tree. really healthy shoots will back bud on jbp, so i didn't want to prune too much at this stage of growing out. ill probably decandle a few shoots that i want to slow down, but i don't really need bifurcation of these shoots at the tips for more ramification at this stage because these shoots are still just sacrifice branches. see what i mean 🙂
it starts by doing the seedling cutting technique so there's no long initial growth of the stem. instead of elongating off it's first tap root(s), the needles have to make new roots after you cut the stem off. that's why i cut close to the first needles. out of these needles you get the adventitious buds.
Really am enjoying seeing the whole journey of your black pines. So many videos they show you something and you never know what happened to the tree. I am not confident i can do evergreens. I do enjoy my maples though. Keep the videos coming even the failures are informative to know about.