Thank you for checking out 1620Garage. We will be covering all kinds of different projects here. From CNC / 3D printing to cars trucks and motorcycles. Pretty much if it has a motor, or if it's cool we are into it! We also have started a small farm on our property. We will be posting videos on this as well. Thanks for checking out our channel and coming along for the ride!
OUCH! You went about it the hard way, but glad you got it done! I swapped in an Amazon "DuroMax XP18HPE" (they don't sell them anymore, you can only get the 16hp one) but quite frankly, it's a tad overpowered unless you're towing stuff around on your property. I get on the road and it reaches top speed in no time! A few hints for others looking to do this swap: 1. Remove the bed! It's so much easier to get in/around. No need to remove the seat and associated plastic. 2. Remove the engine via the four bolts that hold it to the plate and the little rubber mount I saw you welding on earlier. No need to remove that whole plate. 3. Use a pickle fork and a dead-blow hammer to separate the clutch assembly from the engine. You don't need to remove the big nut (30mm) but just the Allen head screw (it's really long, like 4" or 5"?) That's what holds the whole clutch assembly to the engine. Occasionally tap the big nut with a steel hammer to shock it. It will come off without breaking. Keep the Woodruff key! The one that comes with your new engine may be too tall; if the clutch doesn't just slide right on, use the original. 4. You should be able to re-use the choke setup from the old engine just fine (mine had no trouble fitting, even with the new plastic intake assembly.) No need to remove the cable. The little gray plastic choke lever just pulls right off. 5. The charge coils are a different story, I suspect the one in my new engine is small, if you're up to the task I'd suggest swapping the coil out of the original engine to maintain a decent charging system. Do this before mounting the new engine, it's not something you want to do while it's in the buggy. I'll probably regret this down the line as I didn't change mine out. Looking at possibly using a small tractor generator to generate a lot more power since I have extra lights I put on mine (turn signals, interior light, light bars, etc.) Swapping means pulling the whole flywheel off. Not too hard to do, but a lot of extra steps to do so. 6. Throttle cable bracket is integrated into the top plate of the original engine (at least, it was on mine.) I made mine from a piece of 1.5" angle aluminum (1/8 thick, about 1.5" long.) With a sharpie, just figure out where to mount it and drill holes. Use a tap for the original screw and clamp setup. You just need one solid mount point on the engine (I used one of the bolts that holds the shroud on.) I did have to cut out some parts to shape it to fit, the Sharpie is great for marking where you need to cut. If the throttle itself is STIFF (since this is usually meant for stationary equipment) you'll need to loosen the throttle pivot nut so it returns with spring tension. The original throttle return spring should be easy to put on the new engine but make sure it clears everything. I had to use a flat head screwdriver to gently dent in the bracket the spring was catching on. You want that strong return spring since you've got the throttle attached to a big pedal. 7. I reinstalled the heat shield that goes where the gas tank was (not sure it's necessary to be honest.) 8. Install a fresh fuel filter and fill your tank with fresh gas. New engines don't come with oil so don't forget to add enough oil. FYI my new fuel filter was only 3/16" vs. 1/4" - check your fuel line out and make sure you get the right size, and use decent clamps (I use the kind that just need pliers to open, they work just fine.) 9. Once you've got it in and wired up (all the wires except the charging setup should just plug in, refer to your wiring diagram) turn the gas and choke on - give it a start! Should start right up. It may idle high (mine did) so the screw to adjust this is on the carb; it's a little plastic Phillips head screw; unscrew it until you don't hear the engine RPM decreasing anymore. If you don't, the clutch will want to engage and will be hard to shift in/out of gears. 10. This clutch/CVT system is pre-set, there's not much you can do outside of moving the spring position in the driven clutch (it's a torsional spring, not a compression spring despite the immediate appearance.) You won't get a higher top speed, but you'll have a lot more acceleration and if you're towing something it won't struggle hardly. "While you're in there" it's not a bad idea to replace the belt. Be sure to put that rubber mount on the back left side of the engine on, it keeps the engine from twisting enough for the belt to come loose. Re-use all the nice nylock nuts they use, this makes sure nothing comes loose! IF your drive clutch is squealing when you take off, remove that big 30mm nut and the outer clutch setup will pop off. Clean the inside and the weights (the blocks) with brake cleaner really good. I do like this Predator engine, mine does not have any kind of oil pump system like this does, but it was also only $350 and shipped to my door. My original seized up on me while out on a ride with my son - it developed an oil leak (still can't find it) and the oil sensor never kicked in to stop it. Couldn't start it by electric starter or pull start (couldn't even get it to turn.) Oh, and get yourself a linear actuator for the bed! All you need is a few wires, a DPDT on/off/on rocker switch and a long bolt to mount it to the frame. The spring loaded latch on mine gave out ages ago and one day when I ran up to the gas station with my gas tanks, it popped off and nearly dropped all my cans on the ground! Thankfully I bungee cord them through the handles so they stayed in place.
Thanks for checking out the video and leaving such a detailed reply !! I had to weld my bottom motor mount it was broken. I like that DuroMax motor too. I just got lucky scoring this 459 Predator for 199 at my local HF. All of your tips are spot on. My big complaint is the charging system. I saw vegas carts is coming out with an external alternator. That would be ideal. Those mini charging coils do not work well at all. I get about 4-6 weeks out of my battery before needing to charge it back up. But I love having the pull start backup.
I'm wondering what you did about the rubber engine mount by the drive pulley. I didn't see it in the video. I'm doing the same engine swap and I plan to fab one up to fit the 459 since it doesn't have the same mount points for it as the Honda clone. I'm worried that since the 459 has more power, it will twist the lower rubber mounts too much. That upper mount is there to prevent that pull from the pulley from twisting the mounts. Thanks. PS: Was your torque converter rusted on or did you forget the bolt in the shaft end?
Hi , the clutch was frozen on just old age. Shoot me your email and I will snap a coupe of pics showing the mount , I welded it & 90 degrees, no issues in 2 years now. I was using it today on my farm
I just did this same swap. Used the rubber mounts only. Removed the studs and drilled holes through the rubber. No movement at this time and no vibration.
Mine wont shif out of firsti can go to neutral .reverse dont work when im in first ,and when i rode it back it shift out of first to neutral to first could it be a bent fork?
Sounds like you got something bent or broken. Pop off the case and investigate. Take your time, and careful with the springs. Take photos so you know how it goes back together. Honestly a very simple motor to work on.
Mine wont shif out of firsti can go to neutral .reverse dont work when im in first ,and when i rode it back it shift out of first to neutral to first could it be a bent fork?
My timberwolf will shift from neutral to 1st but wont reverse in firat i was riding it normally but after i took a brake i got back on it it started doing that.when i was riding back to my house it was shifting from 1st to neutral do you think it could be a bent fork?
I have had it for 4 years. It’s been a great radio. I have update firmware a few times. Once in a while with an IOS update the Bluetooth will get a little wonky. But I still love it. Sound is great. And the modern look with no knobs is great.
@@david_lawrence_h2703 not totally needed. But clean and no split wood. I have been using the pits 2 months now, everyone loves them. Lots of comments on the look.
@@1620GarageAndFarm just the basics , such as audio, ac, and other stuff that had independent controls on the stock tundra. Those are my main concerns about going digital
I own a few, this is my first FPV its going to take more practice. But looking forward to sharing more videos her. Thanks for checking it out Sadie !! Hope all is well on the homestead.
@@johnotooledoggames2336 hey my first over the pond comment ever !! And I’m Irish 😀. I just got the DJI avata, very cool FPV drone looking forward to learning more and getting more footage of our small farm.
@@kingsknight2112 I thought so too. But it’s actually not too bad. I did add 1” steel angle iron on the front edge the pits. I was surprised how many people make them out of full blown poured concrete when I was look into building this setup.
Hello - I saw a video where you did a cnc conversion on a sieg mini mill. I am curious about the z axis portion of it where you went through the center of the head with the ball screw. Do you have any further info on that
Is the clutch a direct replacement ? My lm400 has some wear on the pulley faces. A new clutch is $500 bucks. Looking for a more affordable option. Thanks
I ran it almost the entire summer and it was ok. This was a couple of years back now. I have retired this project as a scored a free hot tub from a friend
Pump intake at tub can suck body parts in. A kid died when he got down on tub drain feeding pump. Horribly it sucked his insides out. Make sure you have a guard that will not alloy someone to get up against and seal to the tub feed to the pump. It looks like your just using the pump to circulate at low pressure instead of drive tub jets so this should not be a problem for your setup. Its normal to have two feeds from tub to pump so it one gets blocked it will draw from the other without damage. Hydraulics have lots of force.
I think when it comes to old glory .. we can all agree that should be made here in the USA .. everything else in the store I’m fine with it being imported from China and other places.
@@1620GarageAndFarm I have collected my pallets. Free cinder blocks. Iordered a pallet Buster tool. You have inspired me. Thank you for such a wonderful and detailed video
Thank you for the kind comments. I’m humbled. I have a few other projects in the works this spring. Also setting up some RU-vid “live” cameras for my farm & garage. Also getting my saw mill running soon.
ita set up wrong. that stopper goes to the back of the tooth you sharpen. you have it too far back. u can see when u sharpen the tooth moves up, that shouldnt happen.
