After 8 years I'm bringing this old channel back to life. Keep an eye out for new videos on the compound turbo Talon, Mitsubishi Mighty Max turbo, Kubota tractors and mowers, Dragstrip maintenance and operations, etc.
My neighbor just bought one and allows me to use it to cut a large 3 acre field behind my house. We both find it to be a very bumpy ride. We both have bad backs and mowing with this tractor isn't helping matters. His old Kubota was a much smoother ride.
I have the same tractor and mmm. This is our third Kubota having both bigger and smaller tractors and they have all been reliable tractors. I was going to buy a new zero turn but my wife cuts the lawn and said she won’t go back to cutting without a cab. Ac, heat and zero dust make it easy to mow. The hydrostatic noise is excessive in the LX3310 and requires hearing protection. My grand L was extremely quiet compared to this tractor.
Agreed on the noise! The cab is always under rated for dust and allergies, so nice to be out of that crap. Not to mention bugs, bird shit, getting caught a mile from the house in the rain, etc.
I always try to avoid breathing any kind of burning chemicals. This will be the same as when cars do burnouts at the track all day. Usually it's windy enough to carry it away quickly.
A couple thoughts- 1.) The comfort and allergy protection of the cab more than compensates for the slower speed relative to a ZTR for non-commercial property owners. 2.) A rear finish mower could probably be backed into some tight spots the mid mount can't fit due to cab height. Nice setup! I'd love to have one just like it to run a rear flail mower for mixed pasture and yard.
Looks like painting. (I hate painting) Mower takes two (passes) coats. Are those grand stands? Is this a race track? LX 3310 (30 hp) Factory Cab List Price $29755 <-- *WHY?* RK37SC (37 hp) Factory Cab List Price $24,500 $5,259 less RK55SC (55 hp) Factory Cab List Price $30,750 $ 955 more
nice and looks so easy better then a holder tractor sweeper we got have to take off sides with 10 nuts and bolds and disamble the whole sweeper wich its kinda pain that kubota sweeper so easyer and alot quicker
By all means, use whatever you like. I normally use a 12 foot turf mower for this area, but wanted to try this out for mowing around the dozens of light poles and other obstacles to see if it saved any time or aggravation.
Interesting video. I say that in the sense that your LX3310 is roughly the same size as my B2650 with a cab. I've had numerous close calls with my tractor almost tipping because the cab makes the tractor top heavy. Don't get me wrong, I love my tractor. I just wish it wasn't so tippy with the cab. I've thought about adding wheel spacers to increase the wheel width to increase the stability. I've also considered upgrading to something like the L3560 because those wheel rims allow for the owner to add wheel weights. I'm also considering other possible options.
It definitely does feel more top heavy than my grand L6060 with cab. That does have the heavy front hitch subframe helping out though. When the lx3310 starts to get a bit tipsy I pick the mower up slightly, that's about 480 lbs of very low ballast. This tractor has no other ballast yet.
@@kjewer1 Great video of mowing a hillside. Where I live it's very hilly, and I'm looking at purchasing a MMM for my B2650 (Basically the same wheel base, just smaller HP). How much space do you have between the back wheels of the tractor and the back caster wheels over the mower deck? I have seen on forms that they say 2" spaces with a 72" deck work fine. But never able to find any measurements. Thank you for your time!
I think the LX3310 is a bit quieter in person than it seems through the audio in this video, and pretty sure it is quieter than the ride mowers, FWIW. That song at the end is dope!
Is there a way to hold up the mower deck ? For example, I want to use the 3 point with the box blade but I don't want to drag the mower deck. Can it be suspended up? Or do you have to take it off?
It can be held up, there are two pins you insert into two brackets above the front of the deck to suspend it. I made a number of adjustments to the deck lifting system to enable those pins to slide in easily with no farting around, I may make a video on that at some point.
What kind of angle/grade is your hills/ditches? I have trouble mowing mine with a JD 2wd lawn tractor and a zero turn. Looking into getting an LX3310 with 72” deck. Did you ever feel like you were going to tip?
These side slopes are much steeper than they look! I do feel a little more uneasy in this LX3310 than I do in my Grand L6060, but that may just be because this tractor is still new to me. I do run the deck just slightly suspended for another ~500 lbs of ballast nice and low. I'll try to get an angle reading on that hill and post back.
@@kjewer1 I appreciate it. My ditches measure anywhere from 15 to 27 degrees and my Toro ZTR slides down the ditch and gets awfully squirrelly and on 2 wheels at times. I hate it and figured a tractor with 4WD would be best. Plus I’d have an LX 3310 without a cab, so I would have that extra weight up top. The JD 100 series I’m borrowing from my dad gets it done, but it slides at times as well, it’s not mine, and I don’t want 2 machines to maintain.
@@Blahdow21 that's all understandable. I found myself mowing 10 acres with my "small" machine (I use a L6060 and 12 foot turg mower for another 20 acres) so the cab was just too good to pass up. I must be getting old. I've got another longer video to post on this LX3310 mowing, soon, that hopefully shows a lot more of what it's like to actually use it. There aren't many videos out there on this size Kubota machine mowing.
@@kjewer1 I look forward to the upload. I’m pretty much sold on the LX3310. It was that or a JD 2038R, but that is costly. I’d be curious to see the cut quality as well if you have any footage of that. It’s such a new tractor that I’m always looking for new videos of them at work doing various tasks to reenforce my decision.
@@Blahdow21 Just checked some of those hills. What's shown the video and what I mow with that machine so far goes up to about 22 degrees. There are some other side slopes I do with the cabbed L6060 that are up to 25 degrees. I haven't tried those yet with the LX3310. I think I just need more time to get used to it, but too early to be sure.
where did you run your waste gates? im assuming one in the manifold to gate before everything and control overall boost and one on the small high pressure turbo to bypass when the big one comes on song.
+Mikey Mike Two V44s to bypass the small turbo, on the manifold venting to the big turbine. And 1 V44 between turbines venting to atmosphere to control the big turbo.
Size the small turbo for spool, but the lower the back pressure from it the better. The big turbine you can go as big as you want, it will spool once the big turbo comes up, especially with a pretty close spread like you have there.
Correct me if I am wrong, but am I understanding correctly? The smaller turbo should utilize as big a compression turbine in as small ar ratio, and the large turbo use as big ar as possible? I am currently designing my piping for my 2g eclipse and I'm leaning towards a 20G and GT40R, I'm still looking at what ar for the 20G but I have seen the 40R at 1.03 if I remember correct and thats what I was thinking. I want to build for fast response and torque on the street some drags here and there.
The small turbo runs higher boost than the big one to maintain the same PR on both turbos. 17 psi on the big and 28 psi on the small results in about 2:1 on both turbos, for total of 4:1 (45 psi). You don't have to run the same PR on both turbos, but in my case turning either one up would lower the other and neither turbo wants to do much below 2:1 PR.
Just a few questions. What is the difference between turning the boost up on the small turbo vs the big turbo? Does the small turbo have to run higher boost(pressure ratio) than the big one? just some things i've been wondering, cheers man :)
Can't wait to see it. As for the brakes, how about a brake swap to some disk brakes in back along with some Brembo pads and a large diameter disk in front all drilled for performance. Something you would find in a high performance race car or circuit race car. Maybe even some slicks in the back. I doubt you'll need a drag bar or a chute in the back but the custom suspension and custom brake system wouldn't hurt.
@Fatyaqui - Not yet, but I'm starting the assembly of the 2,3 liter block this week. I'm expecting 11s on the same 50 trim turbo if it leaves under boost. The brakes don't hold very well though, so we'll see what happens, hopefully by June or so.
