Welcome to my RU-vid channel dedicated to my website www.tapehead.org
On this channel you'll find loads of short videos about vintage HiFi. It it recommended though to visit my website instead since the videos I upload are mostly just a small part of the story. In general, every video has a link in the description that takes you to the subject the video is related to.
Have the same PD-H570 but it's displaying Err message and it doesn't open the tray. I opened it but can't figure out what the problem is. I tried to reset it but it didn't help. Any idea guys how to fix it.
Must admit mine is a bit newer (2020 maybe), but works like a charm, wasn't cheap though. Comes in very handy to make precision cuts otherwise impossible with a scissor or knife!
I've heard about it, thing is I have so many songs on my computer it would take months to level everything out, something I would want to avoid doing as you may understand.
you have to start a great deck , this teac was to die for allthough i already had the Z-7000 i had to buy something newer as the old one had thousands of hours of recording and playing, but always with maintenance done today it still works perfect either than the B215 from revox maybe the two best cassette recorders ever made also the CT-F1250 from Pioneer and the GX-630D MKII from Akai, nice set up by the way, you shouldn´t put the tape on the start ,just see the numbers on the meter counter or time counter as they need to be stretched perfect to record all equal, were my favorite cassettes at the time, those maxell and still perfect today
Thanks! It was a lot of work getting everything together, most of the devices where bought broken, repaired them myself or even made new stuff to replace missing parts. I'm very happy with the Teac, though it has some weird stubborn problem were it stops without reason, it looks like a small switch inside is not working properly, still have to look into that though. Next to that, I don't really trust the time display, It's to inaccurate in my opinion. Forwarding it by hand does create some slack but the intro music I use catches the wow and flutter from the slack so the music sounds crisp and clear.
I was hoping the overlay text was enough, the video does lack some detailed information maybe, I did not want to talk in the video (my English sounds very 'dutchy' so went for the overlay text instead.
Yeah I have a second one (bought for spare parts) but guess what that one had exactly the same problem... Never got around fixing it, in the end I wound up buying a Yamaha MDX-9 instead.
I'm happy with a 9 too :p but have no clue on what I did wrong, is it the winding part that is worthless (since the deck forwards itself)? You made me curious!
@@tapehead-jeff lol….its just something & nothing? Whenever I record on compact cassette tape…when changing the tape from side A to B I always give the heads a quick clean, new & especially older used tape get the treatment. Now I do not know scientifically if this makes a difference but in my head it does lol. Happy recordings👍. PS for recording get yourself a six head hi-fi vcr, I have 5 machines each purchased under £20, most of my tapes are new 3 or 4 hour each costing around 50p. 4 hours playback at near CD quality & most recordings come from any source….cheap as chips👍
To be honest with you, I'm not a real fan of Dolby B. Used it before because it should make the hiss less noticeable (and it does) but it made the music sound dull. However with these recordings I took the gamble and tried Dolby S and must say this one does the job way better than B, and no remembering or switching Dolby afterwards too!
Good job Jeff and and symptomatically i'm listening from AIWA AD-F850 Jeff -Tyzik if you are familliar . And b.t.w great deck you got there Jeff this TEAC is the 2nd flagship the 1st is the 8030 .
I have to look into Jeff - Tyzik, quickly searched for him on Google, I do have a soft spot for Jazz so I'll give it a try soon! I saw the 8030 too for sale when I searched for the 6030. But the 6030 I bought was very well priced and put up for sale in a neighboring country so shipping costs where low too. Could not find a 8030 close by nor for a good price either so had to go for the latter, but yet it sounds very great! I did however found some posts online about people discussing these decks stating they where terrible, though I do not agree with that!
They sure are nice to use and sturdy, the blade is of good quality too! They aren't that expensive either, bought it at a hobby shop somewhere in 2018/19 for under €20.
It's a small world sometimes, though I must say I found Posy through recommendations from RU-vid on one of his HiFi video's, later on I took the time to look at his website only to find out he make's his own music, the rest is history :p
Me neither until I bought one 😅 No, I knew about them because of players like this having a 16 rpm function, actually bought this record just to be able to use this player in it's 16 rpm setting
We'll you can count me in, I got 3 'digital' flip-clocks and two* antique clocks of which you hear one ticking in the background. It used to be the driving mechanism of a church clock tower once. It's hard to show any picture via Google since it's unique. In large description: It's almost full brass with small steel parts to prevent heavy wear (like the anchor piece). It got no housing so only thing you see is the gears and braces, one massive leaded weight and the tailpiece. Furthermore there is a small enamel display to tell minutes and hours (which was actually used to know what the real clock on the tower was displaying). It still has a fork on top that used to drive the display on the clock tower, it has no use anymore but it's still there. I have to wind it up with a big 'key' which looks more like a crank in size. I can only wind it during daytime otherwise my housemates wake up by the clicking of the gears when I do so. Changing the speed is done by raising or lowering the weight of the tailpiece and changing the time is done by lifting a metal part on a spring that unlatches one specific gear and rotate it manually until time is correct again. Bought it from an antique store for a bargain since it was not working anymore, got it restored by a clock maker a year ago (which was no bargain). I have no clue one where it came from, it could have been local but it could also have been from somewhere far abroad. Only thing sure is that it's at least a 100 years old looking at the parts and how they are made. It has no chime btw, (I don't like that anyway). It's very nice to hear it tick when you go to sleep, some people hate it but it sounds like music to my ears. In short description however: If you know what steampunk is, this clock screams it! *I got another antique clock in storage which is interesting too but harder to describe, uses a steel ball on a seesaw, on every end of the swing it pushes onto a rod which makes the seesaw flip so the ball will slide to the other side (in a W shaped path) to push the other rod (and this continues until the spring is unwound). EDIT, I got two video's of the clock I made last year, I'll upload them and send the link in another comment under this one, give me a sec.
Thanks! It took me a lot of time getting, repairing and setting up everything. I got more unusual stuff in storage and have another shelf waiting there too. When I finally gotten to buy my own home I want to fully display (and use) the entire setup! 😁
Not really both, it's 3th party software in combination with some fiddling of my own to make it look and use like Win XP, though it still has the useful parts from win 11. I used Retrobar for the taskbar and OpenShell to overhaul the rest (loading bars, folder view etc.) I manually changed the sounds, pictograms and background as cherry on top. I also used Winaero Tweaker but not sure if any of those changes are still in effect. It does give a few bugs here and there in the explorer part of Windows but for the most of the time it works just fine.
I more like mechanic cassete players, for example Vega BRG 326, but it not plays very good. Also i more like large reel to reel players, because they are easiers to fix
True, I like them for their ease of fixing, the mechanical parts show themself how they should work, figuring out how electrical parts works is a whole other thing. Also I noticed that way older machines sometimes still work without service while newer machines have to be completely overhauled to get even a bit of life out of them. Besides it's also much nicer to see, feel and hear the machine at work rather than with cold electronics being silent.
Aww cassettes. Buy a new album and record it on a cassette to play in the car, work or at a friend's house. Dug out some cassettes the I recorded in about 1980 on that very same type of Maxell XL II 90 tape. Still clear. Like your set up.
The Best way to prepare a " old stock" casette before recording is to wind or rewind the tape completey, this way a more smooth tape flow is possible, as a mather of fact that is the method old ( archivel) reel to reel mastertapes are held, played to the end so you have to rewind them fully before playing...
I've seen a video about some Beatles (master dupe?) reel lately, they had to re-spool them onto another hub anyways, but can understand why you would do something like that, even though cassette tape usually does not really have this problem the tape can get a little sticky after many years of not using it. I usually erase old stock before using so they have already been through a full playthrough when I start recording on them. Hence the small paper with the word "LEEG" (Dutch for empty) inside the cassette case at 10:00
Greetings . First of all, congratulations on the channel!!! EXCELLENT!!! your work what you are doing, I have an Onkyo Digital A-8800 Interga with all the modules of the equipment are Onkyo which are an M508 sound amplifier, with 2 EQ540 Interga equalizers and 2 of EQ-201 and another EQ-25 and a deck TA-2550 Interga and another TA-2750 Interga and another TA-2044 Interga and another TA-RW 909 double deck, and an Interga CP1500F turntable and Ortofon 40 turntable needle and Interga DX-708 CD, and the T-4500 Interga radio All models are from the Onkyo brand, which is the best from Onkyo. NOT mass production if they are not selected from Onkyo. And the cables connected to the equipment are from the KabelDirekt Pro Series RCA brand and 4 DAS R Speakers. -212 . and 2 Mivoc hype 10 g2 hifi subwoofers, 300 w, from 20 to 180 hz and a TEAC X-2000R Reel-Reel Recorder tape recorder and I also have the TEAC A-6600 . FINALLY, A CLASSIC FROM THE 80S AND 90S of sound equipment from that time, over the years I have never had a module break, that can be seen from how they worked before and the manufacturing materials, I hope to have it last for many years to come. quality of a good musical equipment, greetings and very good videos that you have a great like for your great videos, they no longer manufacture such great sound models as these devices, it is a shame that nowadays everything is plastic, greetings from Barcelona - You could make one from Onkyo Interga also from Review - Congratulations to all the Onkyo electronics, the Inegra Series was a true excellence. I bring you bad news, for this glorious brand, which made history in hi-fi, these days, Sharp, which recently acquired the brand, announced that the debt is incurable. The electronic audio equipment company Onkyo filed for bankruptcy after accumulating debts of US$24 million. Onkyo, founded in Osaka in 1946 under the name “Osaka Denky Onkyo K.K”, has not managed to position its equipment, mainly analog, in the streaming era, consequently Onkyo has been declared bankrupt by the Onkyo company. Even if the electronics produced today had nothing to do with the wonderful electronics it has... A big greeting, from Barcelona-España
That could ba an option, but the quality for duplication anywhere else is mostly mediocre at best. Where I live there is one dupe facility to do such thing but they can only duplicate to ferro (type I) tape which I do not really prefer.
It's all about how much time you want to put into making a 'good' recording, if I wanted I could simply grab a average volume, press record and let the thing do it's job. Not to mention I already put in like 2 to 3 hours beforehand making the playlist before I can even start the physical part. BTW I also still burn CDR's but only to use them inside my car which still uses a CD-player.
it depends on the level of quality you want , it´s easier but not that perfect, i also only restarted to record tapes or DAT, REELs and cassettes in 2017 when i repaired and did some maintence on my decks before i was using minidisc compilations to the car and cd-r to hear at home also some CD-rw on the computer ,around 3.000 and a bit more since 2002 ,records do stay with better sound when recorded directelly from the turntable
i stoped for more than a decade and recorded since 2017, 134 cassettes with compilations, still have boxes of TDK SA-X and SA, C90 and C60 also some UX-PRO C60 only from Sony, hundreds of them ,it were going to be incinerated in 2001 and i went there and saved the most i could , i couldn´t find a friend who had a ford transit had to take a mercedes 350SE from 71
A lot of method in the making. The advice I want to offer you is to not remove the tabs from cassette: they are not easily replaceable and at some point you might want to change your music. If you are manually getting past the leader to avoid it scraping on the heads chances are you also don't want your leaf spring contacts to go beyond their usual bending point because some bulging cap has been fitted in the tabs or even stay closer to their opening point for the slack in the covering tape. I usually start my recordings far later than just past the leader as the first few turns inevitably develop audible kinks in the tape where the hub tape retention tab has been pushing. In my renewed years of dealing with decks and cassettes it never happened to me that I accidentally erased a tape with regular use. It happened that I erased some of my test tapes because I manually activated the record switch while working on decks with a mechanical multiswitch, something that would have happen even if the recording tabs were still intact. The levels are indeed of a concern. Personally I use foobar2000 which is very sweet with EQ, peak and level meters, but you can't auto-level your tracks without modifying them, for that I might use my TEAC W-6000R with ARLS. Otherwise I resort to my other decks, usually of the 3 heads variety, in any case the tracks are laid out on a playlist file and spaced apart with 4 to 8 seconds of silence (except for limited titles) to let the automatic track detection systems of various decks do their job.
Well about the tabs, I have so many good tapes laying around that I never re-record onto them once finished (unless the recording failed, but I keep the tabs in until I took a complete test with my headphones on). Otherwise I simply stick some tape over them and re-record anyways. The manual winding is sort of unnecessary, the deck in the video backwinds about a sec of playtime, it's more to gives me a precise indication on when I need to press record on the deck. For the warped beginning I use a intro music of around 11 seconds which mostly picks up on this problem and sometimes it even sounds pretty nice hearing the intro being warped and stretched only to come back to proper levels just before the music starts. What I do not like however if fast winding of my tapes, the physical winding on the spools always looks very bad and uneven afterwards, also sometimes the tape tends to slide a bit left and/or right pressing onto the film of the casing making it run very stiff or even getting stuck on the next playthrough. This Teac deck is a 3-head machine (not all of mine are though). Together with the bias setting make this my go-to deck for recording, I have a Pioneer CT-F1000 which still needs repairs, I like to also use this for recording in the future but that's something for later. I had one accidental re-recording when I hastily pressed both play an record at once on a cheap deck, probably pressed it so hard it went past the safety mechanics of the deck, I only realized it after a minute or so when I saw the record light burning faintly. So I'd rather remove the tabs anyways that let them be. To finish, manually adjusting the levels while recording gives me a more appreciated feeling, knowing I put so much effort in making them, opening my drawer of tapes and looking at them all knowing how many hours went into them warms me. It also make's me feel a bit scared knowing what all could go wrong when using them but that's the risk that goes into this hobby anyways.
@@tapehead-jeff You read my feelings. I too like the physical media, the fact that you have to take care of it and it will eventually wear out. Concerning the uneven spooling of cassettes I've never had seizures or hard turning problems because of it but I've found worn out seized slip sheets in pre-recorded cassettes. Even BASF cassettes with the Security Mechanism still spool quite unevenly. Probably the best evenly winding cassettes are the TDK SA from the 80s, the ones strewn with button bumps in their slip sheets, they spool very evenly despite not being obvious as they do not have a big window on the hubs.
What the hell are you doing bro? lol Recording onto a cassette tape shouldn't be and really isn't this complicated. Take the cassette out of the shrink wrap, stick it in the deck, check your levels, run a silent lead-in for about 12-15 seconds and start your program source. Monitor. If you know what you're doing, you can get pretty near perfect results without a lot of effort. You don't need to be manually winding/cueing the tape and writing levels down. I mean, I guess you can if you want. 🫤
Well it comes down to the sound levels of the music I record onto the tapes. Sometimes the music comes from different sources, hence why I always write down the sound levels beforehand. Especially with mixtapes the sound levels can differ a lot. For this recording the difference was not that big though so it may have been unnecessary but since I'm used to it I did it anyway. The manual winding of the beginning (I must admit) is totally irrelevant, the deck winds it back on it's own and you can clearly hear the difference in noise for the lead in and the actual tape itself.
@@tapehead-jeff Ok, so if you're recording tracks from various sources, you'd set the levels for each individual track in the software of your choice as you're building the playlist. You'd make two playlists. One for side A and another for side B. The idea being that when the playlist is played back, the levels that you had set before hand should have them all at pretty much more or less similar levels. No need for pen and paper, let the software do the work! :) If you have a 3-head deck, you can make (very minor) adjustments and tweaks on the fly if need be. Cheers friend and happy taping.
@@summersky77 It sounds like to more logic thing to do yes, but there is a bit more nuance to it. I do make copies of my digital music and form a playlist beforehand, so leveling them should be possible, though I do not really have a simple program to quickly level all songs for both playlists. It would mean I'd had to adjust them on a program like audacity one by one, in which it's easier to do it on the fly when I'm actually recording them onto tape. Also (a more minor thing) it gives me more appreciation when I put in that bit of extra effort to sit out and adjust the levels while recording. On the other hand, when I would record 1, 2 or even 4 hour playlists (on reel to reel for example) it tends to be a bit much of a chore to sit it out. So in that case it would be easier to prelevel them. In the end I still have to stay close when recording and keep an eye out for if anything would go wrong in the proces... BTW, the Teac is a 3-head deck so what you hear on this video is live from the tape, though somehow the sound is very low (I can't put it to high for my housemates). Cheers to you and thanks for thinking with me!
@@tapehead-jeff Hey no prob, man. I have to respect your process because you've thought things out well. And the pride of effort put forth, well hey...that's a feeling we all enjoy, I'm sure. I hope you took my original jest as friendly ribbing. And you're welcome. All the best!
@@summersky77 No, absolutely no hard feelings ment :) I actually find it nice to hear how other people's opinion about it. When I tell people about my hobby I'd like to compare it with other hobby's for instance "Some people like to tinker with cars, others tinker with dusty old cassette tapes" The effort and dedication is what make's it worth doing it for me, together with fixing the device's themself.