I would hook up a fuel pressure gauge and watch when it’s under a load or hook maybe a AFR gauge and see what conditions you’re having. That’ll be a good start in my opinion.
Way easier way to change the window motor by simply drilling a few holes in the door and unbolting it without removing the regulator. Either way good job trucks looking good
check the ECT engine coolant temp sensor it controls the fuel and spark map on all these trucks that have the TFI ignition systems the like to get hot and ground them selves out causing it to do exactly what its doing now
Get some oversized clamps that have rubber feet/ pleats on them, to clamp onto door glass to hold the window up when you are servicing it. The clamps come in handy, as an extra pair of hands when needed, in many different applications. Now you know. Thanks for posting
i had this issue. tried a few different tfi module and various ignition stuff. also had basically my whole fuel system changed but it ran fine for like a solid year. even tried a new computer but didn’t fix it, hope the people who bought it from me can try and fix it. these 80-90s trucks can get so tricky after a while
I still say you should try and retrofit the air cleaner box, coolant overflow/windshield washer tank and throttle body snorkel tubes from a 1992-1996 F150. It would take that air cleaner box from being over that hot engine to the cooler front of the engine bay. Ford changed that set-up from what's on your truck to what is in the 1992-1996 F150 for a good reason. Cooler air means more power.
I have an 86 f250. Even if your tfi is not the problem its a good mod to relocate the tfi to the radiator support or inner fender. If it ever goes out you can change it in a couple minutes. I had problems with mine. It ended up being the pickup. Occasionally it will buck once or twice. I think its fuel presuure related. Only does it when below a 1/4 tank. Also maybe check the wiring or connector on the injector harness. Nice vidoes.
You may want to try and rock the key a little forward and back while it’s acting up. Could be a bad ignition switch. If you end up swapping out the switch it’s best to get a Motorcraft part.
My fox body did the same thing. It’s the hall sensor in the distributor failing the second they got warm inside the distributor. The car would die on the side of the road also happened to my buddies fox body too.
I chased the same issue on a Cherokee. After cleaning and replacing old parts for weeks, it turned out to be a combination of dirty grounds and a bad crankshaft position sensor.
it would be cool if u swapped the mustang engine into the bullnose once it goes? and it would be cool if he swapped a cheaper coyote, 351 or a racing motor
My LS would go into a "limp mode" after putting a heavy load on it and would be barely driveable afterwards , yet clear itself up after sitting after a day or so... wound up being crank position sensor.
plug wires look new but the wifes jeep would do the same thing and the plug wires that went around the back of the motor were grounding on the head when heavily loaded. Hope it's a cheep fix , keep up the great content.
LOOK HERE i worked for ford back then and that distributor pickup coil are white or clear looking are the good ones if it was black they were bad. Now back to your problem some many people don't know there is another fuel filter on the frame on the driver side frame rail below the driver door sill. It is in a canister filter. I have replace hundreds of them. Really best thing to do is install fuel pressure gauge on the Schroeder valve on the fuel rail located on the passenger side of the truck fuel rail. While it is idling should be 30 psi if you disconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel regulator pressure should go to 40 psi. Now time for road test. they all ways fail the driving test, put the gauge on the outside on the windshield and drive it. On a FULL throttle through the gears you should see close to 40 psi if it drops fuel pump or filters are the problem. Of cause im sure you ran a EECIV test on the system before you did all the work? I hope this helps if not you know where i am. good luck love the channel
Had the exact same bucking issue with my 86. Chased it as I thought it was an EFI fuel issue. I would bet it's the distributor. The ignition control module on the distributor is likely junk. Poor design as they got super hot and fail.
