@@pricedownmall idling is not good, it is fluctuating. Plus the sound it is making during idling means the engine is running lean. Too much engine noise
@@MotoParallax - Was like that from the factory, this bike has never been tuned other than adding the piggyback from Coober, KTM also did first service and didnt mention any abnormalities, as far as I know these bikes tend to get very hot. KTM bought the bike back so no regrets there. Thank you for your reply.
that needle valve is called a metering rod the factory setting is in the middle adjustment is set for based sea level the purpose for the metering rod is made to either enrichment or to lean out fuel mixture if i recall correctly each notch for the clip that allows he needle to go down make the fuel get richer and the higher leans it out also the slide if you get it in backwards when you start it it will run wide open so be carful
@@michaelcro2941- you could reuse the old ones but new/spare tubes are cheap . Original sizes should work ok. I think a set of fnt and rear tubes were like 30 bucks for both (Amazon best seller).
@@michaelcro2941 - look for your DB- K model here (the motorcycle) xprousa.com/pages/product-support Once you find it click on the link and it will take you where the downloadable owner manuals are located. xprousa.com/pages/maintenance-for-db-k012 My model 5 speed Templar is the DB-K012, your model may be different. Parts here: xprousa.com/collections/db-k012-k5-cb250ftemplar-parts Filter here: xprousa.com/collections/db-k012-k5-cb250ftemplar-parts/products/340-905005?variant=49456609263776 Have fun.
@@glennlopez4720 - Seem to do the job on the areas that adhere to the tank paint, The fit could be better, if you get these you may have to trim the edges a little with sharp scissors. Not trimming the edge on the top piece ( the triangular pieces with the holes ) will have one of the corners lift a bit of the tank. Everything else is good. FYI, no belt buckle protector included :(
Ahy dumb dumb. Please use 93 Only! Your poor combustion chamber, etc. is going to be extra filled in no time using 87. Dont be cheap... 93 ONLY!. Dumbest recommendation I heard ever... Sound real dumb saying that... And change that stock fuel filter asap..
I just watched a video where the guy swapped out the idle screw on the Nibbi carb with the stock carb idle screw. The stock idle screw actually went in farther than it should have and put an indention on his slide. Just thinking that could be an issue on your bike as well. Im about to do the Nibbi 30 swap on my Templar X right now actually. Trying to piece together the best info from multiple videos and forums
Thank you for mentioning that. The original carb idle adjust seems to have a pointy end, the Nibbi idle needle adjustment is rounded. Perhaps rounding off the end could be done if issues arise. Mine seems to be working fine. I don't mess with it a lot. (Set and forget). I typically adjust the throttle cable adjustment on perch and tighten as needed.
I'm going back to a Duke 890. My son has the CFmoto 450SS, first bike for him. I bought the 390 to stay competitive and not overpower his first rides on his bike.
The #520 chain with the 13 fnt 47 rear sprocket factory should be ok because they are the correct ratio for the 5 sp motor, if planning to do more street riding I would probably change at least the fnt sprocket to a 14 and lower the rear to at least a 42, Most people do a 40 rear. The chain could be swapped to a #530 , just be sure the chain is good quality if doing lots of street riding. ** Sprocket with less teeth in rear will limit the ability to wheelie the bike.
@@pricedownmall I just put the bike together but if I’m not giving it throttle it turns off I got a short on my page of it just wondering if you can diagnose my problem or any suggestions
Man I’m glad I found your channel👏🙌 getting my first bike this summer (rc 390) and I haven’t found much content on it😅 won’t be doing much to it to start with but the protectors look absolutely genius🙏✨ (in case my ass drops it🙄)
@@aaaaaaaa7365 - Now that I have mine done I will be going to an 890 again. I will be putting the RC up for sale in the next few days. All upgrades on videos, and original parts included. I will ask 6.2k cash, 1200miles, first service done at KTM. Know anybody?
i got 390 last year for my first bike and when i say i am not disappointed, i mean it lol… ive been having so much fun on it, im just now starting to look into upgrading some stuff on it😅
Please make a video on the exhaust note I'm desperate to hear it Because I have ordered for the coober header for my rc390 and currently put up two brothers slip on Kindly request to upload exhaust note
When installing the part be sure to add enough insulating material on the section that goes around the frame, what they provide is not enough. A piece of thick rubber should do the trick.
Video comming up in the next few days. I was able to get rid of the engine light by connecting an ODB port to a modified Honda 6 port connector, I will be making a video on that too since the actual problem with the engine light was a faulty O2 sensor lead. The Coober is working great and the 11k unlock works amazingly well.
Haven't worked on this bike for a while, One to many projects. I thought may be a good idea to part with the rolling chassis. How much do you think the parts are worth now (2024)?
The MSO must state "Motorcycle", For some reason some of these bikes were labeled as Dirt Bike or Off Road vehicles on the original MSO's. I had a DMV go as far as calling my MSO a fake even though they never saw one before. It took me about a month to get a corrected MSO from the vendor stating that it was a "Motorcycle"
@@williamfoster4268 - I agree on the frustration, it took me 3 tries, also if you bought only 1 bike, be sure that they send the bill of sale with the words motorcycle on it, and that it has the vin # . The DMV gave me a hard time at the beginning and 1 day a year later I went to a rapid registration office and they did not have a problem issuing a title and a registration, In my case $300. The MSO should include Motorcycle 250CC and / or 19 HP Vin # Dont forget the Bill of sale Let me know if you need any other help. ----------- These parts are up to you At least 50/50 tires (enduro) Better carb (nibbi 30mm) Decrease teeth on rear sprocket for better gear ratio on the street
@@pricedownmall I made an appointment two weeks from now, showing up without one means a 3 hour wait, no joke. So hopefully the correct MSO shows up with the bill of sale before that. When I made the order I specifically asked for an MSO that said "motorcycle" but it was ignored. I do have a 42 tooth rear sprocket but I haven't installed it yet. I will most likely change the tires, the OEM tires are too much for the street.
I’ve had my X-pro Titan 250cc. Mines set up for street with Shinko 705 tire for 2 years. It’s been a solid bike for an around town commuter. I’ve had no problems with the bike to daye
No worries, I`ve been communicating with Coober for the last 3 months. They have been absolutely awesome and even sent me a unit to continue with the tests am doing during the installation and troubleshooting. I am currently working on a circuit to adapt to the O2 sensor and also to eliminate a very stuborn O2 sensor error light. I ordered a data cable so that I can see what the sensor is doing at the moment and get some readings. Let me see if by this coming Sunday I post some meat and potatoes. :)
Another thing that should make a huge difference is getting a new exhaust. I think that little piece in the middle is causing some type of restriction. Might be a small catalytic converter or something. I had the orion 230cc bike and it had the same exhaust. did the nibbi carb upgrade and exhaust made a huge difference.
so a while ago I bought the same bike but I don't feel like the suspension really works I feel like I've hit a wall when I go through some area as a whole do you have any suggestions or adjustments what I can do to fix it that problem
On the DLX I have, the rear suspension can be adjusted. The rear was set to 1 side of the shock which made it to soft from the factory for street riding, I needed a 50/50 dirt/street setting. This was fixed by adjusting the rear shock by loosening the locking ring and adjusting the shock spring to half of the shock tube threads, then locking the ring again. I did not change the front forks, I would have to check but I think the front forks cannot be adjusted. Hope thathelps you out. For the rear shock you need a spanner tool. Available at Amazon. Link below Mdvora 4/6/10pcs Coilover Spanner Wrench Set, Coilover Wrench, C-Shape Spanner Wrench, Shock Spanner Hook Wrench Tools, for Suspension System and Shock Adjustment(6pcs) a.co/d/dv4J8Iz
In the process of getting new cam, but yes sure thing. I could do a quick video in about a week. Finally reached the mileage to do the first service and apply possible KTM updates to the ECU.
Hi there, I purchased the same slip on exhaust however my baffle doesn’t look similar like yours one. I am using the slip on without the baffle which is very loud. Do you know the size of the baffle that you have.
Hello, I do not have the baffle measurement. My slip-on came with the removable baffle which I`ve recently installed. The sound still loud but the abnoxious low and cruise speed drone has been reduced. The tone is now deeper than before. Did you try to install it? It slides into place in between the slip-on and the short pipe that connects to the header.
Compared to the originals, the ride on these is quieter and do not make as much noise, much better cornering and braking on asphalt, they grab the concrete really good. Decent on sand, I will test out on the field with muddy terrain and water in the next month or so Tire pressure set at 15, front and rear, this combo allows me to apply the brakes and stop on asphalt better than using a lower pressure (11-12 for dirt and sandy terrain). Wearing out evenly, 300miles on them and looking good.
