@charlvanzyl8913 Hi there. They were bought on Ali Express during my stay in the UAE.... Apparently their delivery to SA has been "good"... but still a risk ? Last i looked these guys were reasonable: pelletgun.co.za/
Hi there !! A very good and important point that I forgot to cover in this video. If maybe there was a small leak of air on the o-rings INSIDE the regulator then high pressure air could get past where the regulator and the piston seal. If this happens the air will be trapped in the "chamber or section" where the spring is. Now the pressure will increases in that section. This will cause the force required to close/push the piston (spring) to increase as we now have spring pressure AND extra air pressure...... If this happens then higher pressure in the valve assembly is required to push the piston head. Thus if air got inside the section where the spring is, then as that pressure increases, so will the pressure required to close the regulator increase. Finally the regulator wont be able to close anymore because spring pressure and extra air pressure will be too much. By making a small hole, and putting an o-ring either side of this hole, the air can escape from the section where the spring is. However you will need to drill a very small hole in your rifles cylinder (directly across from where this hole is to allow it to escape into the atmosphere. That is why we need a breath hole on SOME rifles. The reason I forgot was because that model kral does not need a breathe hole drilled into the cylinder. In that model there is only one outer o-ring on the regulator and the air bleeds from the breathing hole and escapes past the valve assembly . ( Have a look at this video where I fit the reg to my Kral. There I explain that the O-ring must not be replaced .... Watch from about 16 min... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IwCkdBye-rc.html ) The reason for not putting it back is for air to be able to leak past the threads into the atmosphere. If your have a rifle that needs a breathing hole drilled in the cylinder, then it will have very clear instruction , and a drill, with the regulator you buy. Just follow the instruction when you fit the regulator to that rifle. I hope this was clear for you....
Loads of people don’t own them in the uk…there a good little rifle…and that regulator not a patch on huma and it’s expensive.you put that in the pr900 and it doubles the price of the gun.
I saw a review of the PR900W gen2 which comes with a regulator out of the box and they were reporting it competed with massively more expensive rifles on accuracy. The only thing that puts me off is the drop in accuracy using the multi-shot magazine, something the other reviewer also commented on.
Hallo Io ho comprato la Diana Stormrider con regolatore montato e impostato a 130-140bar...ho messo un Transferport di 3.5 mm e sono arrivato a 230m/s=754fps e 34- 37 joule ... però dopo 10 colpi la pressione scende a 90-100 bar,cosa devo fare per sparare più colpi.... Transferport di 2 mm o abbassare la pressione in regolatore e lasciare il TP di 3.5... Aiutami tu xk favore Grazie
Greetings, for this rifle which huma regulator fits? The one that the brand recommends is sold out in the USA. Which other one from the same brand could fit, Huma, thank you
Hi there. How much is your oxygen tank rated for. Normally steel tanks are 200bar (about 3000 psi) and some go to 300 bar (4350 psi). If your oxygen tank is rated for 300 bar, fill it to 300 bar, BUT DO NOT over fill your rifle !!! most PCP's are still below 230 bar !! Just watch the gauge as you fill..... Also make sure the tank has been inspected and passed all safety regulation !!
Hi there. It is an amazing sport / hobby to pursue !! One does not need the top end expensive rifles to enjoy this game !! PCP's are inherently accurate !! Happy Hunting !!
I have another question, the working pressure chamber, when the trigger hits the chamber will release the pressured air but not the complete quantity! So how much remaining? And that is why the trigger can increase velocity and minimise it depending on on what gr you are using and what are the proper velocity for perfect grouping? Started to reach somewhere I think? Any help
Hi again. Ok, the "trigger" releases the hammer. The hammer hits the valve.... If the hammer hits the valve harder, it will release more air... many expensive rifles , Like FX, you can adjust the hammer spring to hit the valve harder or softer... This is something that the average person does not have to worry about. I have never adjusted or set any of my rifle's hammer spring tention, as I am happy with their performance as is... Regarding the pressure in the "chamber": Yes , you are right. Not all the air goes out, but also remember that as soon as the pressure starts to drop, more air starts to flow in from the tank, past the regulator into the chamber . I have no idea how far the pressure actually drops , but would "guess" that if your reg is set at 110bar, then it might drop to about 70 bar before it closes ?? this is only a guess ... Regarding the pellet weight: The lighter the pellet the faster it will shoot. You say you get 970fps. That is very fast for a 18gr pellet in a "normal" PCP... If the JSB 18.13gr does not group, try a slightly heavier one that shoots a bit slower.... ??
One more comments the lane videos was very helpful and confirmed all what I was thinking about, and there are one philipino or Thailand video explaining the spring washers in the regulator which is amazing video
If possible to explain to me if I have a rifle which the regulater is set on 110bar, and the velocity using 18.33 gr is 970 ft/sec, but the grouping in not that good, what would be the solution?
Hi there. Most PCPs are inherently accurate and if your speed is constant, then you should be able to get "good" accuracy. I have found that the pellets make a "huge" difference !! I have 2 x PR900 rifles in .177 caliber. The one likes 10gr or heavier and the other one wants 7gr pellets. My gamo coyote , at 30 meters, shoots about a 2" grouping with the gamo pellets that came with it. If I change to JSB 18.13gr pellets, then it is half inch groups !!! Personally I think the "overall" best .22 pellet is the JSB 18.13 grain pellets. almost all my PCPs love them..... So, before you try adjusting anything.... Try JSB 18.13gr and some other pellets. Also make sure your barrel is clean !!! Krall PCPs initially shoot crap !! then after a VERY GOOD barrel clean shoots great...... My FX also needs a good clean after about 200-300 shots as it starts to shoot random.... Hope this helps !!! Regards JB
Hi there. After installing the Reg i shot about 15 or 20 "rapid" shots just to settle the reg. Then Took those same pellets and shot with the chronograph. I have 3 PR900 rifles and they all like different pellets... I did not mind what pellets I used as I was only interested in seeing the results of the Regulator. The rifle was about 20 f/lbs prior and I ordered a reg that would give me sub 12f/lbs. Just looking at the group closing from the 1st set of pellets tot he 2nd lighter ones you can see that the pellets play a major role in the accuracy. I have many different pellets and by playing around I am sure I will find one that "this" rifle likes more. However, at the range I am shooting starlings and finches, this is MORE than ample !! The fact of the matter is: This is a great regulator... Happy hunting !! Regards JB
I have a question for those with experience with air rifles. I realize that it is difficult, but if the person is interested and a good reader, he will answer me.. Now all PCP rifles contain an air regulator, and this regulator expels air from the cylinder and remains trapped between the regulator and the piston struck by the hammer.. My question is this air, how many bar and how many cc.. and does it The amount and pressure of the air I mentioned above will be greater in volume and strength than the air released from the spring-loaded air rifle?
Had that same issue with mine with the gauge. I took it out with pliers the same as you but I got a hole saw the same diameter as the original gauge hole and went all the way through with it. Now I can take the stock off with out removing the gauge
Here is the electronic test with an oscilloscope and circuit diagram. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vfXLnKsya4s.htmlsi=-kRODU_CgWHiVYSl
So happy to have stumbled across your video, a straightforward and very clear explanation, thank you. Especially as I shall be getting a Lane regulator for my Empire XS
Hi! With the built-in regulator, can bar amounts give maximum power? In my country there is no joules limit. The factory says 275m/sec, is it real? Also do the first and last shot have the same power?
Hi there. Remember that the regulator is not there to increase power... It cannot do that. All it can do is regulate the pressure... Thus if your rifle is now shooting 275m/sec then it will be less when you fit the regulator. However you will have more consistent speed with the regulator... The PR900 is a good little rifle and you only need to fit a regulator if you want to reduce speed, but increase consistency... Regarding 1st to "last" shot. The PR900 does "ok" with the 1st till about No 15 shot... Then speed starts to change ... With the regulator your first 15 shot will be almost exactly the same, but at about 230m/sec.... (I would guess.... Happy Hunting !! Ps: Actually took two youngsters with my PR900s yesterday to go shoot starlings. Great fun !!
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 pr900w gen2 comes with a integrated regulator? So every 15 shots you fill it with air again so that you have constant same shots? With the regulator how far does the bullet go straight to hit the target? Diana stormrider 5.5 is the same airgun rifle?
I’m amazed at how expensive these are and they use visible light not infrared. I have just tested a cheap Chinese unit ( with an oscilloscope) accurate to around 2miles per hour . Very reliable . I did make a cardboard cover as it became less sensitive in sun light!
What purpose does the small hole in the body of the reg assembly serve? Talking about the hole at the 12 o’clock position that runs from the cavity where the piston is located and feeds air into the space between the 2 large o rings on the outside of the regulator. Does this form a pressure check on the inside of the orings to stabilize or lock reg in place while under pressure?
Hi there "@motorgearhead". Very good question that I forgot to address in this video. You are close, but hopefully my eplanation will clarify. Before I just "paste" the reply I have had to send to several other people let me just add to your understanding: Yes, air must "bleed/breath" from there, but not to pressurise those other O-rings. On several other Rifles on must actually drill a small hole in the rifle's tank/cylinder. The air then can go out that "breath-hole" and escape into the atmosphere... The small hole must off course be anywhere "between" those two O-rings. The reason I forgot was because the Kral does not need to be drilled. You just do not return one O-ring on the Kral's valve assembly and the air escapes from there... ( Have a look at this video where I fit the reg to my Kral. There I explain that the O-ring must not be replaced .... Watch from about 16 min... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IwCkdBye-rc.html ) Ok, here is a reply I sent others: This is just copied from a previous person that asked me the same question.... Read it slowly and try to follow as I do not have illustrations, but by looking at the schematic on the video whilst reading it might just make sense...: Hi there . Very good and important point that I forgot to cover in this video. If maybe there was a small leak of air on the o-rings INSIDE the regulator then high pressure air could get past where the regulator and the piston seal. If this happens the air will be trapped in the "chamber or section" where the spring is. Now the pressure will increases in that section. This will caused the force required to close/push the piston (spring) to increase as we now have spring pressure AND extra air pressure...... If this happens then higher pressure in the valve assembly is required to push the piston head. Thus if air got inside the section where the spring is, then as that pressure increases, so will the pressure required to close the regulator increase. Finally the regulator wont be able to close anymore because spring pressure and extra air pressure will be too much. By making a small hole, and putting an o-ring either side of this hole, the air can escape from the section where the spring is. However you will need to drill a very small hole in your rifles cylinder (directly across from where this hole is to allow it to escape into the atmosphere. That is why we need a breath hole on SOME rifles. The reason I forgot was because that model kral does not need a breathe hole drilled into the cylinder. In that model there is only one outer o-ring on the regulator and then air bleeds from the breathing hole and escapes past the valve assembly . Look at this video from how i put the regulator into the Kral. I explain that you must not put the back the large o-ring of the valve assembly . The reason for not putting it back is for air to be able to leak past the threads into the atmosphere. If your have a rifle that needs a breathing hole drilled in the cylinder, then it will have very clear instruction , and a drill, with the regulator you buy. Just follow the instruction when you fit the regulator to that rifle. I hope this was clear for you....
Great video. It’s helped me a lot with installing a lane regulator on this rifle. One question: where did you get the large cocking bolt on your rifle from? I’d love one like that as the supplied bolts are pitiful
I fit a lane regulator last year and the rifle is leaking air. Stripped it down last night completely, but it's still leaking air albeit very slowly. Wondering how I can fix it? Thinking of removing the regulator and replacing original manometer to see if that makes a difference, or whether it's something else?
Hi there. Do you know from where it is leaking...?? There are several O-rings that can cause a leak... To date none of the regulators that I fitted were the cause of leaks. My expensive FX impact being my most "leaking" rifle as it has 30+ o-rings. My Kral was leaking on the valve seal of the piston. My brother's PR900 was leaking from the O-ring inside the filling port or "cylinder end cap". try to find the leak by filling and then holding the rifle to your ears... even a slow leak you might hear. If you cannot, then remove from stock and see if you can take a small brush that you dip in soap water. "Paint" around all the areas where air could escape and look for air bubbles. Hopefully it is an easy fix/ o-ring replacement. If you hear air coming from the barrel tip, you will have to open up again as then it will be the valve.... Please keep me updated...
Is that a PUNCHER BREAKER and what caliber and have you had any problams with it and one more question please how much fps is it shooting and what pellet is most accurate out of it. Thank you.
Hi their John. Yes it is a Kral Puncher. That one has a regulator that I fitted. ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IwCkdBye-rc.html&t ) I have owned 4 Puncher up to now. They are great value and very reliable. This one however had a poorly machined receiver (cocking system) inside. I do think that it was just one that slipped passed the quality control. It worked perfectly, but was scratched inside. I got them to replace it.... The puncher loves the JSB 18.13grain pellets and shoots almost 900fps. Mine after regulator fitted was VERY accurate, but speed was 830fps if I remember correctly... Regards JB
Your video was my inspiration to get my own air compressor, Sir! Just sharing with you my unboxing video of this low-maintenance and low noise PCP air compressor, the GX-E-CS4-I! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P9kqfHmKfEI.html Thank you once more and more power to you!
Hi There naplam. That is silicone grease and highly recommended by most manufactures to use on the o-rings.... Every regulator you buy, or o-ring service kit comes with a packet of this grease.....
Hi there Baza. You are correct and it should have been covered... This is just copied from a presvious person that asked me the same question.... Read it slowly and try to follow as I do not have illustrations, but by looking at the schematic on the video whilst reading it might just make sense...: Hi there . Very good and important point that I forgot to cover in this video. If maybe there was a small leak of air on the o-rings INSIDE the regulator then high pressure air could get past where the regulator and the piston seal. If this happens the air will be trapped in the "chamber or section" where the spring is. Now the pressure will increases in that section. This will caused the force required to close/push the piston (spring) to increase as we now have spring pressure AND extra air pressure...... If this happens then higher pressure in the valve assembly is required to push the piston head. Thus if air got inside the section where the spring is, then as that pressure increases, so will the pressure required to close the regulator increase. Finally the regulator wont be able to close anymore because spring pressure and extra air pressure will be too much. By making a small hole, and putting an o-ring either side of this hole, the air can escape from the section where the spring is. However you will need to drill a very small hole in your rifles cylinder (directly across from where this hole is to allow it to escape into the atmosphere. That is why we need a breath hole on SOME rifles. The reason I forgot was because that model kral does not need a breathe hole drilled into the cylinder. In that model there is only one outer o-ring on the regulator and then air bleeds from the breathing hole and escapes past the valve assembly . Look at this video from how i put the regulator into the Kral. I explain that you must not put the back the large o-ring of the valve assembly . The reason for not putting it back is for air to be able to leak past the threads into the atmosphere. If your have a rifle that needs a breathing hole drilled in the cylinder, then it will have very clear instruction , and a drill, with the regulator you buy. Just follow the instruction when you fit the regulator to that rifle. I hope this was clear for you....
Thanks for the video. You mention that you use a 12v compressor to fill these tanks, do you have any problems with overheating? My compressor manual states that i should avoid running it continously for more than 25 mins.
Hi there. I only "top-up" with my small compressor. It also has a time limit and I do limit its use to less than 30min at a time. The smaller carbon bottles (less than 1L) is fine. The larger ones, 2 & 3L , I filled to 220 bar using my scuba tank. Then topped up to 280 with the compressor. I also always fill my rifle at home before leaving with the compressor (5-8min max). This prevents me using a lot of air from the carbon bottels and then spending long sessions filling them. There are some nice water-cooled , oil filled , compressors aivailable that work great and easily handle 3L carbon cylinders. They are 220V, but with an inverter can run from your car battery, However the purpose of carbon bottels is not having to take our compressors to the field... Have a look at these type. This is from a site in SA, but they are available in most countries. You must however either use slow running water or a bucket with a pump. (Normally supplied) PS: this one can be found cheaper than from this site... even in SA www.google.com/shopping/product/1?client=firefox-b-e&q=12v+300bar+compressor&prds=epd:6740355046464780882,eto:6740355046464780882_0,pid:6740355046464780882&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwicjL-X-Yv-AhU8hv0HHfMDDAwQ9pwGCAU
