You see the top of the cab where the weld joint is?..it’s low which means your patch panel was about a half inch short….will take a lot of stretching to get that center back up without adding more metal
Cool design and well done! I have a few questions. Did you end up finding the stroke of the cylinder? Also, is the only thing that's returning your pedal is the spring inside the booster or your pedal has additional return assistance? And, essentially, fully released pedal fully extends the booster rod and fully pressed pedal fully compresses the booster rod? Thanks in advance.
Seems to me a practical way to connect those 2 tubes between the turbos would have simply bee a silcone tube. That way any ezpansion woun't be an issue. As for the clearance part, using a bend over the frame. It's a bit more welding but make a cleaner job.
@@turborich8316 only thing I’m dealing with my coolant hoses collapsing, truck got new radiator, radiator cap, I’m wondering my overflow tank is clogged
Worth mentioning, you could make it stronger by beveling the edges, it’d help leverage the usefulness of the thicker material. Probably won’t make much difference in this application given the geometry of the force though
In the procedure on prodemand, it says to install locating pins in the rocker arms, but I'm assuming that's only if you're checking the valve springs, etc.?
Enjoyed your video, it’s great to see someone actually learning, showing the process, struggles and success. I’m learning myself and this video is helpful. Keep the videos coming! Subscribed now.
I took a class years ago - maybe late 90's from a guy in his 90s. He would do the tape as you did and then cut the tape so it lay flat and then would cut the metal using that as a template. Then he mixed up plaster and put paste wax on the part he was duplicating and made a mold. We took a break to let the mold set and came back and he melted up some aluminum and poured it into the mold and then poked in a few bits of flat bar so he could mount it in a vice - very crude one time deal. Then he put that in the vice and put a few screws through the flat metal sheet into that buck he made and hammered to form the sheet around the buck. Once he had that matching and checked against the car then he welded up all the seams and finished it. This was in a single class of maybe 2hrs. The part was a very good match. At the end of that session he showed a few knight's helms he had made in a similar fashion. Dude was small and old and kicked our butts hammering out dents in old fenders or whatever. We would work and work and he would pop the dent right out in a few swings, smile, and say - well, you have to know where to hit it.