Oh, you like comments! Well, I thought that was good if a little rushed.... I'm just getting into 3D printing; getting issues with stuff not always coming off my raft (2 weeks ago I'd never have believed I would say that).
Good video, lots to see! The repair to the Princess is very good. There's a product in a tube called "Plasto" (made by Revell) which is particles of polystyrene mixed with poly cement; that works quite well also and can be filed or sanded when set. For the lining of the hand rails and the like, I use silver and copper sharpies; much easier than trying to paint. You can even pick out the little detailing there is in the cabs using that method. 400mA is not uncommon on old X04s albeit yours is fluctuating a little. I've just been given a 3D printer and getting to grips with it (although it might be the other way round so far...). Need to post soon but weather has been so good here, just not got the chance......
I've cut through the extension cord for the hedge trimmer more times than I care to admit so I threw the corded hedge trimmer in rubbish (it was only a cheap one anyway) and bought a Ryobi battery operated one with a couple of 5ah batteries. Never looked back since. To make lithium ion batteries last for years charge them fully and use them unto the tool cuts out. My oldest Ryobi battery was made in 2013 and is still charging fully and holding that charge today. Nice to see you met OOBill and I hope he didn't think your camera work was a bit "jiggery faffery". Be careful round him though for he may want to give you a "good skoosh". Here's hoping if he bought a loco or two it wasn't suffering from "stoppy starty itus".
I am enlightened indeed. I use (for my modelling (that still doesn't possibly sound as I mean)) cheap matt black nail varnish to touch up stuff (there I go again...)😀; easier than using paint and no need to clean or discard the brush.
The coils, as you suggested, are for contacts for metal axles where one wheel side is live to the axle; that produces a very low rolling resistance; suitable wheels are available from Peters Spares or DCC Concepts who provide with the coil already fitted. Phosphor-bronze strips make better pickups for the wheels you have and will produce less rolling resistance. They are best placed to bear on the inside face of the metal tyre but can also bear on the rolling surface as well.
@laingstrains3577 Hi well worth saving for. They highlight the layout. You could do a countryside area and an industrial area and a housing area. Also build a scrapyard would look good. 👌
Is that really the same locomotive?? 😜 I'd have tried the skoosh with contact cleaner first. I also do not like removing wheels. It can be fatal and it doesn't do the loco much good either...
How can you live with yourself for running HO wagons with OO wagons! The shame! 😄. I completely agree with you about just having fun. I run all sorts of things and I don't care really. I am always on the lookout for bargains. I don't know how people afford the new things and they are too fragile anyway. By the way. When Mainline went bust, I believe a lot of their tooling ended up with Hornby and Dapol. That's why those hopper wagons are so similar. Mainline wagons are really nice if you can find them, way ahead of the competition at the time. There are still some Hornby locomotives based on Airfix/Mainline tooling. The cute little 14XX tank loco is a perfect example. 😊
It's coming along. I find to retrofit a below board motor, it is as well to drill a small hole down through the hole in the drawbar whilst holding the drawbar in the central position with tape or whatever before removing the point. Then take the motor below (having soldered wires) and mark or drill the fixing holes making sure the motor is centred. Remove the point and drill a hole using the pilot hole as the centre making sure the diameter is slightly bigger than the through distance. (Then use a vacuum cleaner, I use a cheap USB rechargeable which is easy to use and does not have a dragging cable which catches on stuff). Fit the motor, fit the point. I agree it would be easier with two people but this method works. A good head torch is also a great thing to have for such an event!
You could put a small wooded area between the retail park and the fields, just to break it up a bit. Thats a good idea with the ballast to secure the fencing, by the way. Ill probably try that myself.
If you're in a hurry, tap a little bicarb of soda onto the superglue. Don't know the chemistry of it, but it makes the glue set rock hard immediately. Cheers
Yes, fencing. It definitely looks better with it than without and I am pleased about the sheepies. I haven't put any down yet but it is sitting there in a bag just waiting for me to make up my mind. 😄
I was given a Dock Shunter in 1963. It seemed fast at the time but with just a circle of track and a DMU to compare it with, it wasn't conclusive. Years later, and yes, it was fast and today it still is on original parts just well looked after. Headlight replaced with LED as bulb blew. 😁
Love it 😊 Not sure I made much sense out of the pantograph bit, but I think it was something to do with repairing it with a track pin? I aspire to having catenary one day.
Even though they weren't finely designed, Tri-ang went to all the trouble of producing pantographs that worked, and years later they were re-designed into something that doesn't work very well at all, even on Hornby catenary. Progress I suppose. Glad you got it going. 😊👍
That was informative. It's good to know which direction the poles go in case I need to do something similar. Sanding the lumps off the gears is worth the effort I have found. I hope you manage to get it all sorted and running well. 👍
Thanks, I'm still learning myself so really nice to hear my discoveries are useful. What didn't mention was how picking it up with a screwdriver showed the poles at first.
A positive side effect when running the catenary fed locomotive is that when the track power is left on, you get coach lighting even when the train is stopped.🙂
