@@jax9769 better would be on the first 3 wall cavities to drill the foaming hole plus a hole at the very top near the ceiling and a third hole between the previous 2 holes. This would then allow you to see the foam's growth to minimize waste or underfilling the wall cavity.
I just filled my first wall. I only bought the 200 kit to make sure I liked the product and could install it properly. No problems at all. Getting ready to order more to complete my house.
I think generally spray foam, closed or open cell, has a pretty significant resistance to ignition and most have fire ratings. It would.certainly be no worse than blown in Cellulose or fiberglass but not as resilient as stone wool or concrete (ICF). The main safety feature there is an adequately sized breaker.
This is got to be the most stupid idea ever! Good way to fuck your cladding!😂 If you do this to your house you will have to re clad cause it fucks it completely!
Is this foam too much money?. I built my home by myself and I don't have much. Live in Mexico and salaries here suck, you can bearly make a living. But I sure will love to insulate my home. Winter and Summer s here are tuff... Thank for your replay, will be waiting for it.
BUT... can you use this in an exterior wall cavity? i have an exterior garage wall, 2x4 cavity, outside is BRICK, behind the brick is a 3/4 foam board, then the studs, then the internal sheetrock (in the garage). i understand the 3 hole, and reasoning why. but how much foam do you squirt in the hole? if you squirt until the foam starts coming out of the hole, you are going to pop the sheetrock off the walls won't you? so if you first hole is at 3 feet, how much product do you put in before you wait and allow it to expand?
Doesn't this foam produce off-gassing if not slowly sprayed and allowed to dry about an inch at a time? This process seems dangerous to me, as you don't know if there is an pocket that isn't cured inside the middle of all this, producing some dangerous gasses.
If you need a filter mask to apply it, it will gas off into your home for a long time, years potentially. If it expands that much, it will push out your drywall, your walls will look like a 16 on center quilt. Fiberglass, installed properly is still the best. Cheap, clean and best of all, does not gas off for you to breathe. Lastly, imagine having to run new wires or install an outlet in the future, its not happening. I wouldn't want to patch up three holes per stud, that's a lot of work.
Yes it can push the drywall away from the studs. I’ve had to repair a home where this occurred. Newer homes that have the drywall screwed in place have less movement, as the foam expands, than older homes where the drywall was nailed in place.
@@drummingbad9358 very much so, I would think. I've worked with old school walling like that (it's great). It's of much greater strenth than sheet rock
if you have a Real spray rig you can foam a whole house in 2 - 3 days... with there kits it would take forever.. These are good for small jobs or if your only doing 1 or 2 walls or a crawl space or somthing like that
@1dschamp The comment of an idiot that has NO IDEA what I know about this subject. Compared to cutting rockwool this is enormously time consuming! Spray foam your whole house would take MONTHS! Not only do you have to spray it on in multiple layers, you also need to cut off the uneven surface of the foam before panelling.
Is this similar to the DOW Froth Pak? I wonder what the R value and price per board foot are? I use some of the bottled polyurethane resin foams in weird rocky areas of basements when I am installing Air Krete in the house.
to do a whole house would cost you so much money. I have looked into buying the real machine sprayer and 55 gal. drums of foam for about the same price.
Great question and thanks for asking. Almost all the Foam it Green kits are Class 1, including our closed cell Anti-microbial and open cell Anti-microbial kits. We do have a few non fire -rated foams like our High Density 3lb foam and our Slow Rise formula. Those are less commonly used. Are you researching for a project you're interested in doing?
@haakon88t How is it not effective? It looks way more effective than fiberglass insulation. So what if it takes some time, what matters is how long it lasts? How effective is a shortcut when you have to redo it 3 years later because it wasn't done right the first time.
No, at no point does the plexiglass separate from the studs. This is not a sales video, it's a video to show what really happens inside an empty wall cavity when blind-filling with Slow Rise foam. This way, our customers know what to expect if they attempt the project in their own home. As you can see from other points in the video, we're not hiding anything. Thanks for the question!
I wanted to do this in my bathroom which has a window but the back wall where it is is hollow. No insulation of any kind 😐. In winter the bathroom is freezing the radiators are on high or is it a bad idea?
