Videos of my projects, mainly plant and machinery repairs with some welding, fabrication and electrical work, but you never know what might come up needing fixed.
At approximately 16 min, when installing the exterior handle backing, ensure all locking tabs from this part are hooked and visible from the exterior. If not aligned, the securing screw for the handle will not align.
Prior to removing locking mechanism, the window runner can be removed. The rubber guide can be pulled aside to reveal at T15 screw. The plastic runner guide can be partially removed to give much more access to removal and install. Careful not to drop screw (which can be retrieved using magnet). Instal at about 15:00 would be much easier after removal of runner.
I would highly recommend you weld that plate to the sides. Also if you have a stick welder or know someone who does. Have them use some hard-facing rods to lay beads down the side of the bucket It will significantly lengthen the life span being you will be dragging the welds against the material, not the bucket itself.
@@endurofurry Hi, yes I probably will do that at some stage, I had a job to do the next day with it which wasn't hard on the teeth. I do have an old Oxford stick welder which I used on another video making some forklift extension forks which I could use for some hard facing! Thanks for watching!
@@Steven_R_Taylor That side plate is not for the teeth, it's for the wear on the metal on the sides of the bucket. Trust me. I have seen people who didn't and their bucket sides turn paper thin. Dirt is a surprisingly great sand paper and will eat a bucket in no time if let.
@@endurofurry Yeh I meant just to brace the corner of the bucket where I have welded the shanks on. Yeh I could well believe it, you can see where it has worn back the edge between the teeth. If I end up using it more I will see about hardfacing/plating. Thanks for the tips.
@@Steven_R_Taylor Yeah, and that edge between the teeth is hardened, at least is supposed to be hardened. It's clear it was changed at some point already. so there may be a chance someone skipped out and used mild steel. I have a couple Cat buckets with over 1000 hours on them and don't remotely look that warn out so that's why I say this.
@@endurofurry Yeh I would agree with this. Could well just be mild steel. I can't see me doing that much work with it that I will wear it out. And if I do il grab some Hardox plate and weld that in 🤣 I'm sure there are plenty of hours on this machine so it stands to reason the bucket has worn.
Hello there, could I use a fragment of your video for my coldstarting compilation? Of course I will put a link to your original video in the description, increasing the original’s popularity too. What engine is this? 4M40? Does it have a mechanical or electronic injection pump? 100% veg oil? Thanks a lot for you answer in advance :)
@@WymiataczPlays Hi, yes you can use this short clip for your compilations, a link in your description to my video/channel would be great thanks! Keep up the good work 😁
@@kostaskoufopantelis-zt2we Hi. Luckily I had another car here for parts so I just used that one but I would go to eBay with the part number of the old part and search it. Should be plenty available. Good luck, thanks for watching!
Hi Legend, grand job getting up and running. 🍻 Now the crank seals are sealing, you may need to adjust the carb, especially the low rpm screw if it's like my TS350S that I was given with the same amount of crank slop. It'd be worth looking at the TS400 manual too.
@@R.Sole88109 Hi, thanks I did have a mess with carb but it still cut out. Last time I had it idling for a minute maybe. I'm thinking fresh non E10 petrol will do the trick. Ooh I thought the 400 was old 😅 Did you get the 350 going? Thanks for watching!
@@Steven_R_Taylor Hi, it's a bugger the carb fettling didn't cure it. Running it on pure petrol instead of that weasel piss ethanol petrol should help. The other tests you suggested would be worth a go. Hopefully others make suggestions too. I got the 350 running after a carb rebuild and once dialed in ran well till the next morning, on pulling it through there was a metallic clunk and only half a rotation either way. On stripping it down, I found a loose bolt in the recoil housing that matched a securing bolt but non were missing!?. The saw ain't no virgin!. During the strip down I felt the same bearing play you did and the parts machine had the same slop... At the moment the motor/case are on my bench waiting while other projects take priority.
@@R.Sole88109 Ran afew tanks through her now and she is idling well, even in the E10. Ah yes the old other projects getting in the way situation. Hope you get her sorted!
As I assemble mine the switch is not working , although it’s turning left to right but it’s not touching the knot so the engine will function .. what can I do Sir
@@KingPoshMusic Check the pressure switch core is moving up and down in the head correctly. It is common for them to stick and now allow the stem out far enough to rock the on off switch
@@martincastillo2924 Hello! Remove the bullbar and there are 6 or 8 screws in the rear that hold the two shells together. Very simple when you can see it from behind. Thanks for watching!
@@martincastillo2924 Oh, sorry thought you wanted to remove it. I would think you would have to try and find a used one from a breakers/marketplace, I don't know of anywhere that would sell it new. Thanks
Great video, thoroughly enjoyed watching that. Some serious work done to that digger, but it didn't seem like it was too difficult for you. Nice Calves. You are like a big burly version of Andrew Camrata
@@Ryan-q9b Cheers mate! What Ryan is this 😂 Yeh started it a while back, reckened people might want to watch my projects, that has yet to be determined 😂
@@NMgravel Hi, there is 160k on the clocks but I think that is a mix of Kms and miles. I think they benefit from a chain from around 100k miles. Thanks for watching!
@@komorayesse6949 Hi. They're 33 x 12.5 x 15 cooper discoverer stt pro. Wheels are centerline (American) 10j not sure on offset but they sit out alot on my pajero. Thanks for watching!
@@Steven_R_Taylor Its 95 2.8. The front end sits afew mm lower than the backend. I have always been curious about this but I am still keen on putting 33s. Got rust on the underbelly beneath the second row seats. This brought me here btw
@@komorayesse6949 Yes they do like to rust at this age now. I have another video coming where I clean and rust treat the underside. You can adjust the torsion bars on the front suspension to raise it fairly easily. I have done this but also have heavier springs from a nissan patrol in the rear.
I won't say you're doing it wrong but your holding the Chainsaw in the best way to cut your head off if it kicks back. Serious question, are you left handed? Right hand on the throttle and the bar should be right over on your right side. I like your channel and Subscribed so I don't want you to lose an arm or something more vital as I would miss your content. Been swinging a chainsaw for 35 years so I do know better. Cheers for the vid.
Hi, yes I am indeed left handed so this felt comfortable enough. I have a good grip strength and had afew kick backs which were ok so I'm not concerned. The chain brake also working well. Thanks for watching!
Bought a bandit 600 Brand new in 1995. Used it quite a lot. After 17 bikes & 15 years. I was shocked as after It was left in the garage for a while it wouldn't start. Had to recut the valves back in as they wouldn't seat. Very strange. Shame as there was nothing about the bike I didn't like.
Hi, thanks, I actually have it back on lift now doing afew other areas. That aquasteel sounds good il give it a look. Do you just spray it on with a paint sprayer for compressor? Thanks for watching!
@@Steven_R_Taylor yes with compressor i use 2lts a bit over the top lol but just redone it after 4 years was when i did it last time not cheep but works realy well thanks for the vids bruv
@@vikingdrummer9140 I'm not in a panic to get this done so I think I will take your advise and lash some of that stuff on before I coat with gravitex. It's bound to be better than doing nothing at all.
@@Steven_R_Taylor mate i never underseal that stuff no need to and over 24 hours gives a lovely black finish to it sorry if ever my spelling is bad am crap at it am old school had 40 years on spanners just do family cars now but you realy are very good at what your doing all the best mate
@@vikingdrummer9140 Thanks! That's good to know about the aquasteel. I have the gravitex there sitting ready anyway. It will need something to blend all the patches in properly.
The problem I see that there are gaping holes in chassis and panels. This would also mean remaining metal will of be compromised at this stage i.e. thinner. After repair this is still a danger to be on the road. If it was a one of the kind /classis OK, but it is not. So should have been junked and sold for parts and taken off the road
Hi, you are correct in your statement about the remaining metal being thinner, but that is just how aging vehicles goes. I check this car regularly, it has passed two more yearly safety inspections with no issues. I have checked the entire chassis over and it is still solid, in fact there is still factory paint on the front half in places. It is true it is not a one off classic but I have owned this for many years and there are no other ones I have seen in my local area. Scrapping it for parts is abit dramatic at this stage. Thanks for watching.
Hi, thankyou! I think that's part and parcel of owning a pajero is having to have it welded at some stage. They are made by a company called Centerline, which I believe are American. 15" diameter and 33" Cooper STT tyres. Thanks for watching
Thank you for the informative video. What could be the problem if a new capacitor doesn't solve the problem and the machine keeps not quite spinning up and blowing fuses?
Hi. If you are still blowing fuses the motor is overloading on startup. Check there HP hose is not pressurised and connected (pull the trigger) and check to see if you can turn the motor over my hand using the fan on back of motor. If this is jammed solid then you have a problem in the oil side of pump or the motor. Thanks for watching!
Great job! I bought my pajero few weeks ago with the same paint job as yours, and i finded out there are some covered in thick paint holes in floor :,) several sheet metal workers refused to help me, even though I wanted to pay them extra (in my country cars on frame are uncommon), I was resigned, but I pulled myself together and decided to learn welding, I live in an apartment building in a big city, so it will be difficult. Your video helps me a lot, for example by telling me how to get rid of plastic, great job my friend i hope my dreams with overland car will come true soon. Big regards from Warsaw Poland!
Hi, amazing that my videos are helping people in Poland! Yes very time consuming doing welding on old cars but if you can put the hard work in it's very rewarding! Always clean the metal back, get a good earth, mess with welder settings to get the correct current and take your time. Don't weld too much in one place or the metal can warp. Good luck with your restoration and thanks for watching!
@@Steven_R_Taylor Thank you very much for your advice! I will definitely listen to you. Every day I discover new rust, but I believe that nothing is impossible :,)
@@Steven_R_Taylor, Absolutely. Everywhere we see, we see electronic wonders. Please do consider putting up more videos as you do repairs on this vehicle. It will help people like me a lot. Thanks again.
Good vid,thanks. I also have a 530b 11m that we bought for our new build, saved so much work and labour! Their absolutely cracking machines,looking forward to seeing the next vid on it.
Thanks! Yes these machines are so useful. They are heavy no doubt, we have a personnel cage which my father and I built that we use quite alot. I have started filming the repairs to the rams but haven't finished the job yet! Thanks for watching,
Been looking at so many old bandit vids for mechanical research (looking for a 97 mk1 b12 to replace my 08 650) so this ended up in my feed. I cannot believe that started up so easily after being sat for so long. When you said you hadn't even drained the petrol, I was bloody gobsmacked. It's stuff like this that I love about these old bikes. They just don't make em like they used to, and that's coming from a Gen Z. To hell with all the bs and electrical nannies, gimme an old smelly carb'd bike any day and it'll last a lifetime if you take time to learn and care for it.
So was I, thought a carb drain would bare minimum. That's right, the older stuff needs more fettling along the way but it will last a life time. Thanks for watching!
