Love your videos. Such a rarity in the film youtube world. I have been choosing film based on flatness as a variable now that I scan. I recently dug into my archives to scan some old film strips I had from when I was in the military while in Europe back in the 80's. What a great experince to see those again, however.....all on Kodak and very curved. I'll have to give this a go. I see you have not produced in a couple of years. I hope you come back one day. I really like your videos as they touch on things that nobody else does. Surprised you did not have more followers!
Eric! You sir are an absolute legend and saved me and my son a roll of FP4+ that we'd rewound into the canister and being on holiday I didn't have my leader retriever with me. Thank you very much. *
The 2 contacts next to the 2 LEDs on the back of the MD-4 are used by either of the F3 camera backs (MF-6 or MF-18). This will allow the film leader to remain outside the film canister when rewinding the exposed film with the MD-4’s power rewind feature. Those of us who process our own film appreciate having the leader out to facilitate loading the exposed film onto the processing tank’s reel in the dark! Just makes our work a little easier. Thanks Nikon! 😅
Thank you very much for this tip, Eric! Just started developing my own film, and this was in my list of "how do I fix this?". This answered it very well!
I really enjoyed watching this video. I have the Epson V850 and it came with SilverFast SE 9. I've been using Epson Scan but now I'm determined to learn SilverFast.
Definitely! Silverfast is great for getting the most out of your V850. Check out my wetscan video also. It shows another dimension of the scanning process with your Epson. 😀
In Vuescan I scanned 4 photos at a time. I select the clipping manually, but it checks the clippings separately. Is there any way to scan all the photos together and then crop them? The same way it does in automatic, but it doesn't work correctly in automatic.
Unfortunately this didn’t work for me. As an alternative you can do exactly what he’s doing but instead of water, add a piece of double sided tape. This ended up working great for me 👍🏽
Thanks for putting this together. You provided quite a bit of useful information. I wanted to get a lightweight, pocketable, and “inexpensive” 120 camera. Just purchased one for a maybe decent price given its condition, waiting for it to arrive and super excited to shoot my first roll through it. Will update.
I'm lucky enough to have each of these cameras... well, unfortunately I DON'T have the Leica! - Damn! Mind you I have a couple of Russians. I'll revisit them... your conclusions are interesting. The Canonet is a fair bit bigger than a Leica though.
Very helpful video. I've been looking for a small camera with a 5 aperture blade lens. Basically a hexagon. Most point and shoots have a diamond shaped aperture which makes less attractive pictures. I think I will get one. But many for sale don't come with the case. How do you conserve on the battery then? Would you tape over the CDS cell?
Great video, Eric. I was gifted this camera and have enjoyed using it. You really covered all the features. I hope you will post more videos in the future. I noticed you haven’t been very active recently. I appreciate your clear, thorough, interesting videos!
You introduced me to Minolta system, so you're the MAN! Very informative video, but for stand development from where do i have to take my times? Trusty source.
I sold my Xpan and I bough the Horizon. I sold Xpan because one day not worrking is so hard to repair it. Now I got the Horizon perfect I love to play with this camera. More fun than the Xpan
Thanks for sharing your experience with this camera. I just picked one up yesterday for travelling with as a backup to my Nikon FE. I ride all over Europe by motorbike and I need something that will last the pace with the rough and tumble. Also, the Nikon was a wedding gift, so I'm a bit loath to subject it to too much battering! So far, so good. The "off" button underneath takes a bit of getting used to, as does the fact that with the wind-on lever pressed in, the shutter can still release, unlike the FE. Still, I'll just have to get used to not winding on immediately after taking my shots. The action is superb, I'm shooting with the 50mm 1.7, and a yellow filter. Can't wait to get home and get the first rolls of film developed. Your video is really in-depth and we'll presented. I'm going to subscribe. Respect, from Europe. PS, in Europe the designation is SRT 303 or 303b. JFYI.
Nice video. I have one of the earliset versions that was given to me by the original owner in Germany who is a great freind of mine. I have always been very staisfied with the images from this camera and it is a joy to use. Typical German engineering....excellent +100. OUt of the myriad of cameras I have owned and tried, 100% of my cameras are German. They just made the best ever and I do not think there is amodern camera today that can top them. Rollei, Voigtlander, Leica, Agfa, Zeiss...perfection.
Sorry I didn't see your post sooner. Ebay is a great resource for this type of item. Also if you have a camera shop near you that sells film cameras, they might have one. Maybe search the web for someone that repairs Leica cameras; they might have a spool laying around.
Definitely the Canon. It’s probably the best fixed-lens film rangefinder ever. It has a perfect lens, great ergonomics, good viewfinder, etc. checks all the boxes. The Olympus lens is nearly as good and the camera is a little smaller. It doesn’t have the ergonomics of the Canon but it still gets the job done.
Hi my 7000i only lets me use manual focus despite me depressing the AF/M button at side of the Camera! Should I be doing something else to make the AF work or is there a fault with the Camera? Thank you 🙏🏾
Has it done that with every lens you’ve tried? The lens should move and make a noise when you attach it. It will also revert to autofocus when attached even if it was in manual previously. I would clean the lens and camera contacts to eliminate that as a cause. Also give the AF/M slider a little “exercise” meaning gently rock it a few times while the camera is turned off. It might be as simple as the internal contacts on the switch are a little corroded. Good luck!
Yes since it has a hot shoe, you can use a simple cord that connects the camera to your flash. Search on amazon for “off camera flash cord” and you’ll find several. You won’t have TTL so you have to use a meter or old school Guide Numbers (which work really well). You can even use multiple flashes if you get a set of wireless flash triggers! This is more complicated but I’ve used them successfully (with a flash meter) on any camera with a hot shoe or a PC socket.
Thanks for the info! Is the PC socket on the camera? There seems to be an accessory I see in some images that shows the cable connecting to a bracket, but I can't tell if it's to the bracket or to the camera body. I was really interested in the Minolta HiMatic 7sii, but it seems like x sync is only through the hot shoe. Is that true? I think in the end I'm going with an Olympus 35 RC for a lightweight, easy to carry set up.
The cord I’m talking about slides onto the hotshoe of the Rollei (or any camera with a hotshoe and the other end connects to the shoe of your flash. It’s usually a coiled cord which allows you to setup off camera flash-not a PC cord. The wireless trigger usually comes with a PC cord to connect to your camera in case you need it but it also has a hotshoe that goes on your camera and then the remote triggers attach to your flash shoe. The wireless setup works best with a flash meter or you could also use a digital camera to test the light for shadows and bright spots before committing to film.
I have watched this video at least 6 times. I wish I had a darkroom, but I don't. After over an hour of trying to load 120 film on a reel, I'm now certain that loading 120 film on a Patterson reel, in a Patterson tent, is the challenge I will receive when it's time to pass through the pearly gates. I'm equally certain that the test was created by Satan himself (or herself). In light of that, I will just jump off of the metaphorical cloud into the seething cauldron below and take the easy way out. This is why I prefer 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 sheet film.
I would point out a thing or two in case they might help. Check the leading corners of the film to make sure that they aren’t sticking out and getting stuck in the reel. You can roll the leading edge of the film backwards (against the curl) to make the leading part of the film straight instead of curly. Also can you pre load just an inch of the film onto the reel before putting everything in the bag? The first few inches are blank and have no photos. Good luck!
@@FilmPhotographyChannel Another YT person said not to get frustrated. That didn't work lol. Another YT channel suggested putting a folded photo paper ramp (I used thin mylar that I have for making digital negatives), through the reel slots, in front of the feed openings. That helped a lot once I figured out that the ball bearings were "stuck" (new reels). Also, I ran out of expletives... I think that's when things turned around. I have film loaded on a reel and in the tank. I can try the preload idea too, Thanks a bunch.
@MichaelLloyd you’re so welcome. I’m glad you made progress. I had a very similar frustration years ago loading 35mm film until it all fell in place one day. I hope in comes together for you too. It takes some of the joy of film photography away when this type of thing happens.
@@FilmPhotographyChannel I developed the film this morning. I had two over exposed negatives (first two) and 10 that may be under exposed. I'll see what happens when I scan them. I kind of expected that. I haven't shot my Hasselblad V series in almost 10 years. I haven't developed film in almost 10 years. It's been 7 years since I made a photograph that I cared about with digital or film. Simply put, I burned out. I shot the Hasselblad as a way to pull me out of the photography slump I was in. Seeing those negatives made it worth the effort. The whole process has been full of little road blocks. I forget the Hassy won't fire if the dark slide is in. With a winder, it makes a "noise" but doesn't advance the film That took a while to figure out lol. I checked my Panasonic light meter for function the day before I left on a 2000 mile round trip drive to NW New Mexico. The battery was dead. The battery is a little odd and I had to order it. No problem, I'll just use my Sekonic light meter. That got me close but it's not the Pentax and I am rusty. All I needed was an EV, except I wasn't sure about where to put the zones. In the end I went with f8 and be there. The trip was for work. I had time to shoot 2 rolls and that was it. All in all it was the kick I needed. I'll shoot some 35, more 120, then move on to 4x5 and maybe I'll get comfortable shooting 8x10. I develop the sheet film in my Jobo. Hopefully it's still functional. A darkroom would be nice to have.
Just found your video. I am thinking of buying this camera and your explanation is just wonderful to watch. Thanks a lot for this! I could listen to your voice explaining cameras all day❤
lol, no not fake. Just a different model. The Rollei 35 is an earlier version of the 35S. It was also made in Germany or Singapore. It had a Carl Zeiss Tessar or Rollei Tessar f3.5 40mm lens-not the 40mm 2.8 Sonnar. Here's a really good website that shows every single variant of the Rollei 35: www.submin.com/35mm/collection/rollei/index.htm
Great job explaining this camera and its functions. I have this same camera, and I can’t understand why the same vintage Pentax cameras are going for so much more. However, I did like the LED meter on my Pentax MX better. But, I agree with you, Eric, the SRT series are very well made.
I'm going to be switching between rolls for an upcoming shoot and my canon always puts the film leader back (tried the different C-fn and still did not leave the leader out). Would this in any way damage the film if I switch rolls using this technique multiple times?
Not that I could imagine, but I would try it out with a single roll first to check. I would probably use two camera bodies before switching mid-roll like that.
Hi, I have a very basic Agfa Isolette V. The bellows are in pretty poor shape and I am looking for another 6x6 folder. Hopefully slightly higher end, with a range finder. I was advised that Mamiya Six is a really good bang for the buck. How does Mamiya Six Automat compare to Agfa Super Isolette? Which Agfa Isolette model is the closest in features, build, and image quality to the Mamiya? Thanks...
