"Super Make Something" is a channel where I make cool stuff and show you how to make it, too! My name is Alex and I'm a robotics Ph.D. by day and a maker always! I love making DIY projects involving 3D printing, electronics, robotics, and more. People often think that science, engineering, and technology are hard, but that doesn't have to be the case - the best way to learn is to simply get started, and there is no better way to do that than to build a project that interests you! I believe that learning should be free to everyone, so this channel shows you how to make my DIY projects step-by-step and gives away all of the design files for free. If you are interested in learning how to make cool stuff, you've found the right place! Click the subscribe button to stay up to date with my latest projects! For business inquiries, feel free to shoot me an e-mail by using the link below! But most importantly, thanks for checking out my channel! Let's go Super Make Something!
This is a shot in the dark if you would still reply, but is there any other way to check for circuit breaks without the multimeter. I know that my whole capslock lane (horizontal) is compromised. Is there an easy way to know exactly where the fixing needs to be done on the board
@@7slimy278 it is possible if you rig up a circuit with an led, ground, and 5V line, and then going along the traces until the LED goes out, but that might honestly be more trouble than just getting a multimeter. It doesn’t have to be a fancy one - even this simple one will do the trick: amzn.to/3y0B2e7
What’s a good price for the 2040 aluminum rails? Looking around it seems like this varies pretty wildly. I think the best I found was on Amazon at about penny per mm if I order in 2 meter lengths
@@megamattplays4903 I purchased two of these 6 packs of 2040 1000mm rail for my build through Amazon. Prices are a bit lower if you don’t get the black anodized version, but I liked the look of them. 😀 amzn.to/3Y2Q5hO
@@SuperMakeSomething Only if you have no idea would Aliexpress links be better than Amazon. That's what I meant. Maybe offer it as an option in a blog.
"Order yours in link below" Below what? Videos are cool, but I'm looking for material order links and stl's for 3d printed parts. Are you not releasing those until your final video is ready?
@@megamattplays4903 Link for the PCB is in the video description. PCBs can be ordered now, but the 3D print files are still pending until the final video so that everything is finalized design-wise.
@@SuperMakeSomething Oh! Don’t know how I missed it. Looking forward to your updates. How many sensors did you use per dance pad? I want to get them on order since Ali Express can take awhile
@@megamattplays4903 I am using 4 arcade sensors per panel, just like at the arcade. In this circuit board design, the sensors are wired in parallel, so that stepping on any one of them will register as a button press. I also have 1 FSRs in each panel as well (though up to 4 FSRs per panel are supported, again wired in parallel via the circuit board), to have the option to use both or switch out depending on what I feel like playing on that day. :)
Does the price on PCBway include all of components as well? I see they have an option for it assembled as well. I’m fairly novice with a soldering iron so probably worth the extra cost? Any tips going with the pre assembled option vs soldering your self? Also seems like the prices scale with the same cost to by 1 as it is to buy 5
@@megamattplays4903 PCBWay does offer assembly services at an increased price. In terms of PCB orders, the minimum quantity is 5 due to the way their production process is set up. (I am also looking into making a kit version available that includes one PCB + all of the components needed for people to assemble one themselves, but haven’t worked out the final details yet.)
I identified the broken circuit by just looking at a black spot on it because I don't have a multimeter. To repair I used a small piece of aluminum paper (from the kitchen) and durex tape. It is working perfectly. Thanks for the video.
NOTE: Due to various hardware differences, some Arduino variants may not be able to handle 12V at their input. It is recommended to start with a 5V source and then slowly increase the voltage until the scanner works and your motors turn. A variable power supply is handy to test what voltage needs to be applied at the input. These can be purchased here: amzn.to/461FTrR
Please check the pinned comment. Due to hardware differences, some Arduinos may not be able to handle 12V at their input. It is recommended to start with a 5V source and then slowly increase the voltage until the scanner works and your motors turn. A variable power supply is handy to test what voltage needs to be applied at the input. These can be purchased here: amzn.to/461FTrR
I love this project and I would like to replicate it cause here, in Spain, we don´t have many places to play DDR and it could be useful to practice. I´m waiting for more videos. Nice DIY work!!
My Hama keyboard would not open. There was something in the middle keeping it, but i already removed the 2 screws there hidden under the keyboard. Stay away
For things like this, I usually take a photo with my iPad’s camera, making sure to take the photo straight down. I have not noticed significant warp in my photos, but you could try to adjust this using Lightroom or the warp tools in Procreate. If the drawing is in loose leaf paper, a flatbed scanner could work, too.
Hey its been 8 years since this video was uploaded, i was wondering if i can get the measurement of the parts that u 3d print. Please I really hope that u can help me.
There is another huge drawback, besides noise: the camera lift should be moved in a semi-circle, so it can also scan the TOP of the object from seen above. This was my first thought watching this video, and the result indeed showed that the figure's top is just nearly flat. But beside of that, it demonstrates a clever way to achieve 3D scans with a very limited budget.
Thanks for the heads up! There is definitely a possibility that the GFX library may have changed since I uploaded the video, since it is also an open source project (that is not maintained by me). Are you able to try an older version of the library (preferably the one used in the video) to see if it fixes the problem?
@@SuperMakeSomething All fixed with an older GFX library. I also ported it to use TFT_eSPI.h :-) Just need to move the audio mp3 playing to an I2S amp for better audio quality.
You would need to double check the compatibility for both the GFX library and the pinout for exposed pins on the PCB. It is unlikely that you would be able to surface mount the screen since it would likely have a different pinout and footprint, but you may be able to solder wires between the surface mount pads on the PCB and the screen you are trying to use. If you try this and get it working, please let me know!
Hell yeah part 5! Can't wait to see this series finished. I ended up snagged a legit DDR SuperNOVA cab so I guess I'm out of the diy pad game for now. Still it's a great year for dance gamers wanting to play at home. Glad to see so many options now be it commercial or diy solutions.
Nice! A SuperNOVA cab is an awesome pickup! Unfortunately there never seem to be any machines for sale in my area, so I had to take matters into my own hands. 😅 Enjoy your cab and thanks for watching! Part 6 is currently in production!
I'm sorry for asking this but do you have a Diagram for the PCB. I'm just starting to learn this stuff and can't afford to print a PCB just yet so I want to do this on a Breadboard. I did burned a TFT screen and a ESP32 board when hooked up the Lipo to the 3.3V pin... so i'm a little bit scared now Thank you!
Doesn't work that easy... Depending on the board you may need to install drivers for the CP2102 or CH... (Cant remember the number), it's needed so your PC knows how to communicate with your ESP32. Some boards need it, some boards don't. Furthermore some boards need to be put in "write mode" or "dev mode" so it can be written to. Otherwise there will always be an error. And last, be aware that some cables (especially cheap ones) only transfer power and not data. So change cables if it doesn't work - could be the problem you encounter
Howadays i know a couple years have passed but ESP32 and RP2040 are interesting choices since they support megabytes of flash, plenty for images and the like. The flash is external, and on RP2040 boards can usually be replaced by up to 16MB. Furthermore they don't suffer when driving the LCD via SPI unlike 8-bit Arduinos, saving pins and affording a cheaper screen subassembly. You can also multiplex screen and SD-Card via SPI and Chip Select - it also worked on 8-bit Arduino but the performance isn't great.
