When you post a video, they ask you to put in like a cheat word so you when someone misspells or type part of what your video is about, my video will pop-up.
hi. I have a question about your OG-Evkin computer mount, since the comments on that video are turned off. Is it normal for the provided bolts to only screw in half the length of the threads of the stem body? I'm using the black cylinders as instructed. The regular stem bolt screw all the way through, even protrude on the other side a bit. Is it safe to ride?
If your talking about the unit were the computer clicks in, my screws are half way. So far I had no issue. You can also you lock-tight just to be sure the screws don't fall out. I can't remember if I did that.
Yeah i got some of those . Allieexpress has full 3d or 50 bucks or so. 150 grams think. Didn't get one . But thinking about it. I like the flexy carbon though.. when u sit. it flattens out . The170gram ec90 is flexy .. 20 bucks .
The 3D printed saddle in this video is 800 Torey carbon, which is not as stiff as the 1000 Torey. I think because of the lower Torey, it absorbs more vibrations.
those saddles looks very amazing. i'm very tempted to buy one but since i'm a very aggressive rider i have to admit that i feel a bit of fear for it.... but since im riding a primecomponents primavera 130g saddle proabably it is the same. Also the squares are just the carbon fiber, they made the CF laminate by using carbon, resin and pressure....Sometimes the cloth slip a bit and made those effect but aestetics apart is nothing to worry about.
I agree with what your saying and It could be just that unit. Again, the paddled saddle with the forged carbon is softer and shorter, so if you like that, you can't go wrong on the price. The other saddle is nice and the clear coat is perfect and it is stiffer and a longer seat so...
looks a bit like the berk lupina just with the added 3D padding. just got myself the same ryet saddle as you with forged carbon - look forward to using it 😎
There's a similar saddle by thinkrider which has more flex and comfort as the rear carbon at the end of pressure release is thiner. I weigh 84kg and no problems been riding it a couple of years.
I sent the web page in the description, they gave the actual measurement so if your interested then you can go check it out. I was measuring based on a guesstimation and the rotors fit perfectly.
I put a narrow wide chainring on my track bike before. It worked ok, but made hella noise cause of the hooked teeth on a normal 1x chain. T.A. Especialities makes some super nice made in France gear cut lathe 7075 Alu chainrings for 25-40 bucks, same quality as the ones people race on. That's my personal choice.
Bro dont use that deckas chainring, its for 1x drivetrains only the ones with no front derailleur. It's tooth profile is a narrow wide one, its designed to effective hold the chain in a 1x set up, it isn't made for shifting bro
@@ricojohnfirmanes6084 I see your point. The store doesn't say you cannot place two together and until I got them in my hands is when I realize that they did not have the chain protector nub between the ring and the crank arm. I've already have ridden with this set up and I might continue for this season. Like I said I did not notice any issues when I was riding with load or without and since you brought this to my attention I will pay closer attention to the shifts. Thank you very much for looking out.
Just installed the p505 power meter with pes cranks and qed rings.. what a piece of crap, chainrings you can bend with your bare hands, crankarms noticeably twist under load. People need to know... Waste of money!
That is unfortunate that you have to go through that. I would return them. I and others haven't had any issues like the few you are describing. Maybe you got a faulty one?
My bolt pattern for the crank, fits shimano,. You can also buy their chainring set. My bolts that I have on my crankset are 10.5mm to 14mm www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004686041108.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.142.3e901802T6Bhzi I hope I answered your question.
@@bossebo3535 I'm not sure what your asking.. Do you mean the left are without the chainring? You can buy the crank without the power meter, or you can just buy just the power meter. I use 170mm.
I've been eyeing this power meter. I recently purchased a Carbonda CFR696, I kind of want to go all-out Chinese on it. Entire bike from Chinese manufacturers. I bought a Magene C206 super cheap computer, and it works pretty damn good for $30!
Do it totally worth it. Mine has been working flawlessly for almost a year. Just remember to calibrate it every month or so. It's super simple, in their magene app. Only annoying thing is you have to use their app, and create an account. Mine was 100 grams more than stock 105 r7000 crankset Install from 105 crankset, was just the chainrings swap and thats it. I did have to index the FD a little bit on the high limit, to not rub.
@@therandomguy5742 yes thanks, I need direct mount with 2 screws. You show how to adjust the brake shoes closer or further away. Can you also adjust individually if a brake shoe is closer or further away from the rim?
@@matthias-L Good afternoon. The cable tension can adjust the width or how wide you want the brakes to open. Tight for a 23mm rim looser for a 28mm. The sliver adjust will fine tune the brakes how you like them.
I did about 50km and nothing more with the seat due to crappy weather kill joying my happiness. So the opening of the pads are L 7 1/4 and W 1 1/4 at the widest part. The 50km I did use the seat, I enjoyed riding with it. The padding feels nice and I did not get any penis numbing or any cheek soreness. The seat is cheap for what the quality is and this is a seat I would by again. Besides that, the seat is beautiful.
@@andyt6991 I checked to see if I can find the pully is either SS or GS. The one I have fits the ULTEGRA which is medium I would think. I hope that helps you.
About 70% of your braking is done with the front wheel so that’s probably why it’s like that. I’m sure it has zero effect on the braking performance. I’m debating between a set of super teams or elites for my next wheelset
elites are nice as well. The nice thing about Chinese carbon wheel set is that you can get cool unique patterns. The fake ee brakes are awesome, they have good power braking. I can just sit and skid out my back wheel with little effort.
I’ve had a few sets of “Chinese carbon” wheels and the Achilles heel has always been the hubs. But if you invest in a good set of hubs like the ones in video the rims have proven to be excellent in my experience.
Meh few thousand isn't that much, should last a tenfold. I have some cheap alloy OEM rims (Mach1) for about 8 years now and put at least 8500km each year on them. Just make sure to pack the hub bearings with fresh grease every 2 or 3 years.
That's cool, however this video is for people who are looking into carbon wheelset. I agree that a few thousand km is not much, however it is still something for people to go by on. I read a review on superteam carbon wheels last over 15000km and all that person had to do was replace the bearings.😏
@@QoraxAudio Of course alloy wheels last longer then carbon. Again, this video was a review for people who are interested in carbon wheels, not alloys.
@@QoraxAudio Are you trolling? Metal versus epoxy glue and fabric... Either way, I love my carbon wheels and I will at some point will have to replace my currant set for a new carbon set, that is just our reality for carbon lovers.
I haven't ridden with it yet. Since the date I purchase and received the RD-01, it is still our winter season. I can say I have purchase OG-EVKIN items and they are good quality.
I do believe that this item will last and maybe help with saving watts. Either half way or at the end of this summer I will do another video on what I think of OG-EVKIN RD-01.You can't go wrong with $50 for a good quality item, instead of $300 item that does the same thing.
