Lol. It's just disappointing for the price point, and it would be nice of they were upfront about the life expectancy, but that's obviously not the world we live in. Thanks for the comment.
I don't believe so. There's probably a set screw that you're missing. Check the housing for a small Allan key. Sending pressure usually engages the brakes, so removing the line should disengage them.
@theTurnandburn5 I removed the set screw for both axles. In the service manual there is 2 one on top and bottom. This axle only has one on top. I'm thinking the axle seal bushing is rusted into the axle housing.
@@kyles234 ya, then that is most likely. Maybe a bit of heat on the housing and smack it to break the bond, but im guessing you already know that if you got past the king pins. They are usually the hardest part. There shouldn't be anything else holding is, so give it the beans.
Good evening, i have an oil leak from Front Axle breather of Dana Spicer. 223/ 50-006. I check sight plug and its come out dark and looks overfull. Waht you recommend to get that fix? I believe its a break seals gone.
I use scotchbrite pad and a good wipe for prep and then apply a piece of foil tape to patch holes in roofing and siding. Coat with cool seal for added protection. And it looks better.
Tell me about it. It's such a burden to be lifted. My neighbor has put nearly a dozen tarps on his. Check out my latest video to see how his turned out. It's much nicer.
I'm not sure I'd even worry about those small gaps. You're not going to lose that much heat thru them. As long as rain doesn't blow in. Every time it rains, I get an inch or more in my garage, that's why I'm about to build a new one
Your right, and it is just a shed, but it's a pet project of mine, and I've built these for others too. So I'm trying to find easy solutions to get them as clean as possible.
Thanks, if you like that one, make sure to check out my latest video. The one that I built for my neighbor is much nicer, and I'm building a garage out of one, with a pony wall, next year. I'll be stretching the bottom out to get a bit more width out of it, and using the pony wall for more hight.
Stay tuned, I'll have more videos coming on building these, I'm just trying to find time to make them. I've got foundation, bracing, securment and framing info too.
@bradywscriber5455 I would just use chain or plumers tape, or find something else to get creative. The concrete anchors I use are called smack pins. They are smaller, easier to work with and very effective. I'll try to get around to making a video on this, since it seems to be a popular question.
Not really. I even have a half inch gap around the chimney, and not much comes in. There is a bit of a crown to the entire structure. It's ever so slightly football shaped. I think because the ends are pulled in a bit. Would recommend if that's the case because it helps with drainage.
Great videos man, cheers from a mason in Ontario. We use a non shrink rapid set made by cpd and I'm not sure if its the same as yours but generally I don't like letting it go off and then remixing. Manufacturer usually says to pour and place immediately within something like 10 or 15 mins max. Difference being we make a slurry coat with it that we paint on first, then pour while its still tacky (cant let the slurry flash either). Our product may be more aggressive though, since the set time for driving on it is I think only 2 hours, stuff made for industrial for patching where forklifts drive etc. Something to maybe experiment with!
Thanks great info. Yeah, probably not manufacturers recommendations to slake, but it did make my life easier, and it's still holding so far, I'll do an update down the road on how it's holding.
It becomes extremely rigid once the tin is bolted on, but be careful, because some styles don't have cross braces inside. I out tin on one of these this year, and I had to add a set, just to be safe. It is a bit wobbly without them. That being said, the snow doesn't seem to stick on it much for some reason. Maybe just because where it's located. Also I have a hole cut out in the middle of the side(for a chimney), and water never comes in it, even though it isn't sealed. But thats because I have a slight crown to the building. It's slightly football shaped. I'll try to find time to make a video explaining these things. I'm also putting up another one of these soon. And this time I'll be building it on top of block ponywalls.
Good job thanks for the video. If you install the ends before the roof, possibly that would be quicker and work better. Install the panels on the outside of the pipe frame leaving them a bit long Then trim them after to suit the curvature of the pipe using tin snips or a cutting wheel on an angle grinder. When you install roof panels leave them a little long to create an eave.
That’s a great idea about leaving the roof long for an eave. Along with that, if you attach the end walls on the INSIDE of the hoop pole you would eliminate the unsightly gaps caused by scribing the tin to the hoop. They would be overshadowed by the eave.
@danholtbk7008 you're right, I'm not much of a carpenter, and I was in a rush, and just using what scraps I could find on jobsites. My neighbor framed his in really nice. I'll get around to posting a video on that, but we're still trying to find a way to cover the sharp edge of the tin that extends past the wall. I think you're talking about leaving the tin in the middle of the hoop bar, so that it comes past the wall but doesn't leave the sharp edge hanging off
@@theTurnandburn5I’m not criticizing you at all. I’m also not a carpenter but I do a lot of diy stuff, too. Most often I end up doing things twice to get it acceptable, lol. Anyway, at 1:02 in the video you are showing how you cut the end wall to fit the underside of what I call the “hoop” pole. I was thinking that if it was cut to fit the top of the hoop and screw it to the hoop on the inside of the pole you wouldn’t see the imperfections unless you were inside the building looking up and out. I would have been a lousy school teacher! Not very good at explaining things.
@@theTurnandburn5 Thanks for the response. I was thinking of using tapcon screws to anchor it down and was wondering if anyone else used them as well. I’m going to give it a try lol.
Strap the frame with wood and screw the tin to that. Then you can run the tin vertically like it’s supposed to be. You won’t have those nasty ends to deal with.
I just did the same thing to the samestyle bldg. I cut 2 feet off the legs and lowered the roof. I used 10ft home depot silver corrogated roofing. Only took about 2 hours to screw on the outside shell. Now I am building the ends. I highly recommend doing this. 🤠👍
Don't use the cider blocks on thier sides they just crumble. That shielding has strips that fit at the end to fill in the gaps. Was wondering if it was possible to do what you just did. Great job and thanks for sharing.
Great video! Really helps since there is no other content out there. I do have a question though, if you can help out in anyway would be awesome. I have a 2013- JLG G10-55A. Rear diff has a vent on the driver side that sometimes pushes fluid out, which I'm guessing are the brake seals failing. My question for you is the front diff or maybe both idk sound like the brakes are dragging or stuck, brake peddle is really stiff. What could that be?
It's possible that the bolts that retain the slave cylinder have broken or backed out. That's actually what happened to one of our units. But the brakes weren't stiff. If just felt like their wasn't any power because the brakes were dragging. Maybe your brakes are just worn. Not sure. But ya, if oil comes out of the breather then your seals are toast.
Is it just me or does that cat look like it will need a new boom hose in a very short time? Pretty sure the one side has 2 and the other has 4 and the one is sliding on the divider
Bro. Hole saw then a thin cutting wheel to connect the holes. Facepalmed so hard looking at those. Hang up the torch. Use that for I beams of super thick steel.
Glad to find this video. It helps a lot. Quick question though. My JLG telehandler 6042 has good parking brakes, but the service brakes just barely work. Any idea why that might be? lt looks like they both use the same brake discs.
Your right. I would check the parking brake release bolts. You'll have 2 or 3 that push on the back of the slave cylinder.... I guess it's more of a diaphragm. If it's not that you can bleed your brake lines like a regular car, but even easier because the hydraulic fluid flows constantly unless the vehicle is on and parking brake off. Other than that is out of my area of understanding. The nice thing about JLG though, is all their service manuals are available on their website... I believe.