Welcome to Ivans Bikes Bmws. This is my cycling channel where I would be giving tips on bike maintenance, reviews on the bikes and much more. I will also be doing videos on the BMWs. BMW tips on washes, upkeep and BMW maintenance. Please subscribe and share.
Thank you for the review. Would have been much easier to have a total picture about the tool chest if it wasn't filmed so close to the box. Maybe next time.
I also thought it could be a bent axle, but after changing my axle for a new one nothing changed, the wobble is EXACTLY the same. There is nothing wrong with the bike in the video. All the unevenness you see is due to machining imperfection. The freewheel wobbles not because of the axle, but because the thread on the hub on which it is mounted, is not machined on perfectly centered. If you do a search here on YT for "freewheel wobble," you will find out that this wobble is common and normal on freewheels. It does not affect shifting (if your derailleurs are properly adjusted).
I can not thank you enough... big thanks.. heart filled thanks... thanks from the heart .. I changed the whole fucking tube.. then tried to pump... didn't work... took the tyre casing out.. tried to pump just the tube... to realise I couldn't pump... I could not pump... I could not pump...
@lsd938 What is interesting, I made the same video for those having issues with presta valve. So I decided to do one for the schrader valve and both videos are very useful from the audience feedback. Thanks for the comment and enjoy cycling!
Good afternoon! I want to build my Superbe Pro rear derailleur with Superbe cranks and Stronglight 55/48 chainrings. This groupset belonged to the “Artiach” team. I know it is a time trial development, but I really want to try it. My question is whether your ideal cassette is a 12/21 7V or if you would also accept a 12/23 7V. I look forward to hearing from you and to learning from you! Thanks in advance!
Here in Brazil we have a local bike brend Caloi, that produced a 10 speed bike colled Caloi 10, from 1972 until 1996, if I am not wrong, in the 70s they used the Suntour Honor in those bikes superb derailer, even today a prefer to buy a used suntour to use in my old bikes than to buy a new one.
Those are called "dork discs" and everyone knows they are like reflectors - to be removed IMMEDIATELY after getting that new bike home! Ironically a spoke protector only protects the inner 20% of the spokes at the hub. They do nothing to prevent a derailleur from hitting the other 80% of the spoke's length! Bend your derailleur hanger and/or fiddle with the limit screws incorrectly and it will hit the spokes with ease! Incidence of derailleurs into spokes has indeed been a large liability issue with bicycles for decades. But the reality is if you don't keep tabs on your bike - especially after taking a spill, you may suffer catastrophic rear derailleur and wheel destruction. The SRAM transmission was designed partially to address and eliminate this issue.
Don't pry up the battery cover. Simply press down on the top edge of the cover. The bottom will pop up. Also, make sure the red o-ring is properly seated before replacing cover.
Amazon isn't what it was in the beginning. It is a shithole marketplace where the sellers are abused by amazon and most reputable sellers are out of there and the only ones present jack up prices to hell and back to cover all the fees of amazon and eventual scams that chargeback and return empty packs .
So this video isn't necessarily how to fix an EPC light. The title seems a bit misleading but I'm betting all those views have netted a few bucks. I digress. To summarize the video: 1. Scan your car for codes. 2. Research parts related to the code, and search for the cheapest possible price for the part. 3. Replace the part and hope it fixes the issue. 4. Return the part if it doesn't fix the issue. Full disclosure, I hate stealerships as much as the next guy, so unless there's a recall, I avoid dealer service departments like the plague and only use reputable independent shops if I can't fix something myself. Not to bag on this guy, and I appreciate that he seems to be trying to help people avoid costly dealer repairs, but what's being suggested in the video just isn't sound advice. The problem is, simply buying the cheapest-priced part can be seriously risky. There is no end to all the cheap Chinese parts available on Amazon, etc., that might not only end up being defective, but could potentially damage your vehicle. I replaced leaky power steering hoses on my truck with parts that were less than half the price of the factory parts. Guess what? Less than two years later, both hoses are leaking again. So now I get to spend more money to buy quality parts this time, and at least 3 hours to replace them. Thankfully I caught the leak in time before my power steering pump and steering gear were ruined. Second, the suggestion that you can just throw a cheap throttle body on your car -- and if it doesn't fix it, you can just return it -- is simply terrible advice. I have never known a parts store to allow a return on a used fuel-related component (or electrical component, for that matter) unless it is defective. Amazon may be the exception to that, but then again it's probably not the best idea to ship anything that has had fuel in it anyway. I don't think the postal service or any other shipping company would appreciate that. Bottom line: 1. Get your car scanned and thoroughly research the code(s), then research how to actually test potentially faulty components rather than just start throwing parts at your car. Shooting the parts cannon is neither an efficient nor cost-effective substitute for basic troubleshooting. 2. Don't be fooled into thinking any cheap part is going to work. You could be out more money -- and time -- in the long run by using inferior parts. Check user reviews and ratings before purchasing an aftermarket part. I'm not implying this is always the case, but sometimes factory parts might just be the best option, even if they are more expensive.
@jrb982 JRB good observation, but it all depends on how you look it. For example, I brought in my bmw and vw at the dealer when my battery was done. When I got there, all was good, but when they cranked the car, the light came on for the low voltage. Regardless they tried to charge me $200 for a diagnosis and maybe another $200 for clearing the codes. So I would say, the more info gets put out there the better. Also yes, the video did very well and brought good cash, but that was just a pure luck tbh. Plenty of these videos out there trying to score. Cheers and thanks for the comment.
@vijaysundar2501 No I don't, but you unscrew that bolt holding cable on the caliper and you yank out outer cable. Than you should see the condition. I bet 99% it is bent and you need a new one. So just take a picture how you have it and take it a part and put it back. Very simple.
Thanks brother! This was really super helpful... I am recently moving to the Netherlands from India...and there are more cycles there...I am in the process of restoring my 15 year old 21 - speed MTB...I don't find the original parts anymore so I just decided to go with restoring the original 😁 and You my friend have helped me a lot
Wow thanks for the tip Ivan :) , I can’t believe I never thought to use a vacuum usually I would just shake the tire but that doesn’t get all the bits of debris out.
Presta Valve ring is for securing the tube during the first time you pump it up so you don't have to force the valve through with your other hand. I'd get rid of it, if you tighten it too much it can damage your valve core.
Yes, it is on upside down. Flip it and replace it; or discard it entirely. Also, take of the Presta to Schrader adapter that you have living on the stem there. That extra weight at the end of an excessively long valve stem is actually what is precipitating the flex of the valve stem, causing the vibration. Put the adapter in your seat pack where it belongs Get a proper Presta valve cap if you feel one is necessary
@mikethebest991 Mike , I usually would spay Cleaner or a pulleys and than put some cl1 parktool Lube. That is the noise that I am noticing. Also make sure the rear derailleur cage hanger is not bent. All those will make it smooth and quiet. Thanks for the comment.
