Welcome to Team 2 Gils. My channel has atv and dirt bike racing videos, how to's for parts, and some product reviews. Enjoy and please come out and race, it is a blast! Don't forget to subscribe and click on the notification button. You can also like me on Facebook at @team2gilsracing
And do several round of flushing, don’t just flush it once, run the water through there several times and let it heat up for a lil bit before draining it and doing it again
For all the people mentioning only adjusting one side that will throw your steering wheel off. (Past Semi truck, trailer & auto alignment. I'm not an ATV mechanic but same still applies.)
Those stems bend easily how to properly separate the stem for removal is essential considering these stems are typically bent during installation or removal to change out the bearing.unfortunately your video skipped over vital steps to remove the stem properly and is a waste of time to watch
Glad I found this video. Would it work on a BMC air filter? Asking because I can find the Maxima filter kit, but not the OEM BMC air filter cleaning kit. Thanks again for the video!!
Open bleeder to see if fluid squirts out and if it does, do your wheels spin more freely now? If they don't, check the pistons in the caliper to make sure they are not binding and moving freely, be careful with this. If wheels do turn more freely after opening the bleeder, close the bleeder and hit brakes again. If locked up again, check master cylinder to make sure it is not over filled, if everything looks good, then it may be your master cylinder not releasing pressure properly. Check to make sure lever and plunger move freely and extend all the out. Just a couple thoughts.
I did all these are more things , But still pulling to left even 2 different shops tried to alignment and check everything but they could not find the problem. also the ATV is brand new 2024 . Not used/
That sucks. Couple things to check is make sure tire pressures are same on both sides, fronts the same, and rears the same, check the hiegth of your rear tires to make sure they are the same, could be a mfg issue with tire. Also, visibly check that your rear axle has your rear tires pointing straight and not cocked to one side, then jack up the back and roll the tires in neutral to make sure they roll smoothly and that the rear carrier bearing is not shot. Just a couple ideas.
@Team2Gils will check the back again tomorrow , for the front, I checked everything. Can be a tire problem which can't do anything about it. Tnx for info.
have you drove this ? does it actually overheat before you changed anything? I have a fan on my belt setup as well with no shroud and i run a 160 thermostat with no issues. but i dont know what you have going on over there.
I did not get a chance to drive this during the summer and did not want to wait. A 4 blade fan and no shroud is just to risky for what I want to do with it. Obviously worked for previous owner, but not what I want when I am idling for hours at a time on hot rod power tour. My goal was to make this as bullet proof as I can.
@Team2Gils understandable for sure. I totally get the mindset of just making whatever it is you're working on bulletproof for the future and time to come when it comes to working on these older cars and engines.
Do you think another benefit would be faster climb to full engine operating temp during the winter? I seem to remember my old CJ5 would struggle in the cold. Like the thermostat just couldn’t operate correctly when the air temp was -20.
@user-rv4ob4tg9x time to get up to operating temps is largely controlled by the thermostat, but some water us still circulating and slowing your fan could help but likely not much at all.
How do the elkas compare to the rebuilt shocks? Just blew my shocks and a arms apart and I’m debating between stage 4 elkas or yfz 450r shocks built for me. Going with houser +2.25 arms
Rebuilt ones were pretty good but the elkas are better, plus they were long travel. If just want a simple suspension upgrade, custom rebuilds are a good choice. Going all In with new arms, go long travel and the elkas imo.
Did this, first it was a pain to break bead which took an hour, when I hooked bar under tire to flip it over rim edge, bent my rim all to hell. Just take it to shop.
Bummer. I have used mine a bunch. Trick on the bead breaker is to Really go slow and keep working around. Also quicker to take it to a tire shop as well.
@@Team2Gils I’m a mechanic by trade and this was a pain. Now I gotta find me another OEM rubicon rim to replace this one. Maybe the 24’s have aluminum rims…🤷🏻♂️
i have a 2018 and i love it and your channel is definitely helpful helping me fix it up but my check engine is putting off two slow flashes and then two faster flashes then stays on and also my gas light is on all the time do you have any suggestions?
The 2 slow blinks and 2 fast suggest air intake temp sensor. Did this happen right after the exhaust and programmer installation? If so triple check everything and make sure it is wired correctly. Secondly, Did it get wet? If so, start disconnecting connectors and dry them out.
Boy, I cannot remember now, you should be fine either way. Make sure the threads in your case are super clean and dry so the locktight sets up good and you are good to go. Thing works great and nice only to have to use 1 wrench for both drain plugs.
3:20 . . your bottom ball-joint castle nut has backed off !!! . . Also, the Nyloc nut is a great idea but, you really should still install the roll-pin in that hole at the end of the strut rod. I'm a retired Ford tech that specialized in suspension & steering. Toward the end of my career I was an instructor/educator for a Large Midas franchise. So I really do know what I'm talking about.
Good explanation on the way Castor works. My fireball long travel AARMS don't have that same cam adjustment that you have. I'm gonna have to adjust at the frame.
When I was looking through those break pad screw holes I saw there is a little arrow in there and I kind of had to push the bold through that arrow and I heard scratching when I tightened it is that normal? Thank you.
If you are referring to the pins that go through and hold the pads in, they will ride on those pins metal on metal. You want to make sure your pins are in perfect shape and have no grooves in them as that can cause your brakes to not work as good. Those pins could squeak going in but if they are in good shape you should be good.
Hey Rick there is a black seal on the parking brake adjusting bolt do you know what that is because mine has a cut in it and I’m wondering if that is a problem. Thank you
There is a black boot a bolt goes through, just helps keep water from going past and into the backside of the caliper. Worth replacing but probably not an emergency
@@Team2Gils thank you! And I saw your video on the brake change very informative, i ended up stripping those rotor screws do you think the best thing is to weld a nut on there because I tried a lot of things already thank you
@user-us6cq6zb2i not positive on what ones were stripped, but I would try tapping them and installing a helicoil. You can get a helicoil kit at the autoparts store pretty cheap.
Just keep the fluid over full and keep turning from right to left until there is no more bubbles coming out. Sometimes tapping on it helps the bubbles come up faster. Be careful not to suck air in while you're doing it.
@@Team2Gils sorry for bugging you again, last night I tried doing it again but when I was putting oil in it and slowly turning the lever with the knobs all the way up it didn’t really suck the oil down in and wasn’t much air bubbles, might try a different nozzle to put the oil in and see if that helps cause I was more likely just adding drops in the holes and letting it suck the oil in
