Hi they do make slug magazines and standard pellet magazines. Sample on my edgun L2 in .35 caliber I can’t use slugs because they fall out. For me in .35 they don’t have a slug magazines yet. They offer in other calibers like 177 / 22 / 25 not .35.
@@Nick-gi6ym the Western Sidewinder has one magazine. If there were a different size for slugs, they would be obligated to send it with the rifle. There's one and it shouldn't be smaller than .046 or larger than .048. if you have a magazine from edgun for the leshi .35 and slugs are falling out then the magazine in UNSAFE. If a slug gets bound up and the gun blows up or there's damage due to misfeeding, the manufacturer of the magazine is liable. You should force them to supply a working magazine. Of course, the slugs should be from a reputable company, not some home press stuff.
Question I would like to know you said you went through 500 rds on the sidewinder my question did you have any malfunctions why I’m asking I’m thinking about purchasing the short model sidewinder did you deal with any o rings issues or any other issues. Thanks for your help
@@murphystreeter@murphystreeter I was able to work something out on airgunnation with a gentleman for my highly tuned wingshot 2 shotgun. I saw in your video that you were able to get in touch with someone about buying a longer barrel, who did you talk to about that? Mine is the standard version but would really like the option to turn it into a compact with barrel and bottle for my truck or woods walking. I heard Western Airguns won't sell parts to the end consumer and AoA tells folks to contact Western so ots a death loop. Could you please provide who you spoke to about the barrel swap and pricing? Thanks in advance! You earned a sub
@@murphystreeter You mentioned in your video getting a barrel for $150ish I would like to purchase a shorter barrel and bottle who do you deal with to purchase your barrel? I have read that Western wont sell parts to the end consumer and most places will make you send the rifle in. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Have a great Independence Day
Yup had my 25 cal for about 2 years now. Im glad I got the 25 cal instead of the 30 because for some reason Big5 will stock 25 cal if you ask but no higher calibers. It was fun to stroll to big 5 during the ammo crunch and blow 150 rounds full auto. available cheap and still fun. I have never been to a closed range with it. When i think about taking it to a closed range the thought feels boring. This thing is fun to let loose at an open range ( by open range I mean desert or Bureau of Land Management areas. You can really see and press its capabilities. Every time I took it out there I'm impressed and I have put at least 1000 or more. I ran the hell out of it. The fucker is accurate. The barrel is the cause of alot of the weight. almost half the weight. So far its had 3 repairs. I believe the first repair was my fuckup. the next 2 repairs where the valve pin and I replaced the valve pin myself the second time it broke. The pin is made of some hard plastic. I kept my broken pins as a project to actually repair it and make it stronger or somehow get one made of metal. I have stripped this whole gun down, barrel, bottle, receiver to find that it is a very simple design. Also I run the hell out of my portable 200 dollar compressor from Amazon has not broke down yet except for the batteries for the digital display. Any way good video. I just wanted to leave some info on my 25 cal. Oh and thanks for warning about the open sights. I was saving it as a backup, but now.. ehhh..
hello! would you please help out on how can I able to remove the piston #2 I already remove the piston crank shaft but its hard to push out the piston itself out of the block.. what I can do next?
If the piston won't come out of the cylinder you can use some sandpaper to mill the ridge. Feel the top of the cylinder wall to see if there's a ridge. That make a cutter for cylinder ridges but it's expensive. I've never seen a Subaru with a ridge tho.
Before replacing this tee - "water connector", check the vent hose connector between it and the tank. The inner sleeve of the connector often breaks and the liquid leaks onto what is shown in the video. The problem was solved by replacing the air vent hose. Yes, I had it.
Przed wymianą tego króćca wody, trójnika wody. Plastyk. Prawa strona silnika w bloku powyżej filtra oleju sprawdźcie złącze automat wężyka odpowietrzenia, który jest wpinany do niego i prowadzi do zbiorniczka. W tym wężyku często pęka wewnętrzna cześć automatu spinki. Węższa plastykowa rurka z uszczelką. Płyn nacieka na na ten " trójnik" i mylnie naprowadza na jego wymianę!!
Great video. Great info. Thoroughly enjoyed the honest, no holds barred approach to the poor engineering that went into building those engine components. I do like Subaru's for the AWD system.
@@murphystreeter There's nothing "wrong" with the rods, per se, other than they are 131.6mm long... I have an 01 2.5RS coupe with 120K. I think the HGs are going, so I was thinking if I threw some STi rods and pistons in there while I have the heads off I could boost it cheap. I'll already have the engine out, so a crossmember swap will be a cinch.
Should be in the video. Gotta have a 1/4" impact ball swivel and 1/4" extension. I think it's #4 that is the difficult one. It's a tight squeeze. Totally achievable. Check your decking with the new rods. Please reach out if there's anything I can do.
Angle steel underneath to hold it all together. I guess I would hire the bartop epoxy job out. It took forever to cure to the point that it wasn't sticky.
Just an update, i just pulled the engine again and replaced the bearings on all rods. No Rod knock! all noises gone. I learned that you do not need to remove the wrist pin for cyd #2. Simply went from 4 - 3 - 2. Removeing the rod caps, turning the crank and then pulling the piston out of each. one by one to not get them mixed up. I then ran a bit of metal polish on the rod cap and crank. then cleaned with break clean. INstalled new Bearings and used assembly lube to crease the crank. Torqued to 33ftlbs. Cyd#1 i removed two and bought 3 cheap 5$ swivels 1/4 drive. Broke two of them. Make sure you have a magnet stick and patience. I pulled out #1 and reversed the process. THANK YOU for this video, i did not want to split the block.
I've been wanting to rebuild an EJ257 engine I've had sitting in my garage for a long while. I rather not deal with machining anything cause the engine is still in good working order, and I'll sacrifice replacing the journal bearings for now, just to avoid splitting the block. But I do want to break it down enough to replace the rods, and pistons with something a little more hefty, and replace any other serviceable part within reason. The rods have been a big question mark in my head, on weather I can fish them out. Are they reasonably easy to fish out? Or is there a technique to it?
They come out easy. Needle nose plyers will get the clips out. Be sure to ball hone the cylinders and buy Hastings ductile iron rings. Watch my video on the EJ22E and you'll see that good rings will cut into the hone marks when they seat. That will eliminate oil burning. Look at the EJ22E heads to see there isn't carbon all over the combustion chamber like you find in the 253/257, etc.
Thanks for the video, i just did a head gasket job on my outback, to find out i have cyl 1 rod knock and have to tear the heads off, didnt want to split the block glad i found your video, was it difficult to pop out only piston 2 or put back in? and did you have to polish the crank or use bigger bearings? Still running good? haha
Rod knock is bad news. Very hard to plastigage. Roll in the new bearings and say a prayer. Check rods for distortion on the big end. Might be good insurance to replace the rod that has a knock. Hastings ductile iron rings are a must to eliminate oil burning, blow by. Use multilayer head gaskets. Depending on the rod you're removing, you may have to push another piston out. Good luck bud!!
@@murphystreeter By rod knock i mean nice rattatatat at a constant power setting. i pulled the pan off and sure enough nice rice sized flakes, maybe about 14 of them, i grabbed each rod cap and wiggled them, and of course its #1 can move it back and fourth about 1 mm so spun bearing is the proper term? surprised the car has lasted the 7000Km i have driven it with that noise. I really dont want to split the block so ill give this a shot.
No but if you have to roll in new rod bearings or replace a rod/inspect the crank you'll need to. Always always install new pistons with ductile iron rings.
Hey now, did you make a problem? Didn't want to solve. Until you do you do, that's the thing about them, Still got them, problems. Seems so small, they can tower over you. Pile up, build a wall, Around you, surround you, oh and how. When you finally think they're through, So they follow, follow? I wonder who can solve my problem. Oh how about them? Problems can wait, Problems get solved Problems relate, Problems revolve around tense situations, Tense situations left unresolved. Something comes up, you get involved. In justifications of foreign relations that have nothing to do, No nothing at all with the problem. Hey now did you ever have one, Have a problem? That you could not solve. What did you do about them? What did you do? Did you try and close your eyes? Put the blame on someone else? But the problem follows you around and round, Up and down until it takes up all your time. Til it starts to bother you, til you start to lose your mind. Your problems, they love it when you do they do too. Problems that wait, never get solved. Problems relate to and problems revolve around tense situations, Tense situations, left unresolved. When something comes up and got you involved with contradiction, Fictional frictions that have nothing to do, no nothing at all with the problem. Hey now, did you ever have one? Have a problem that you could not solve? That's the thing about them, problems.
Thanks brother, I'm going from a 2.2 liter single port 97 to a JDM 2.0 so I ran into the intake manifold problem had to order another intake with the correct plenum configuration, not easy to do and I'm still concerned about other electric gremlins. Did you have any problems running that throttle body on that plenum?
Only idle speed. Not terrible. Is deck height/spread the same on the 2.2 vs 2.0? I'm using an EJ223 to replace an EJ257. Blocks look the same. I'll know soon enough.
@@murphystreeter Deck height is identical, however, spread is narrower so the 2.2 intake manifold will not bolt up. Additionally the throttle body is different on most of the 2.5 intakes that have the same spread which creates a cascade effect of problems. Fortunately I found a 98-99 2.5 legacy intake manifold that has the same throttle body plenum, and is drive by cable--we'll see "how compatible" it is when it arrives; fingers crossed!
I think you're referring to heads. I'm going to use the EJ257 heads and intake. The car has VVT. Keeping the electronics and intake from the car is key. That's what I did on my EJ22I swap
Thanks. You've saved me some time. I have a rusty number 1 cylinder and thought I need a o'haul. It's been sitting around and it's a low milage import. So bearings should be fine. Hopefully I can do what you suggested and just hone that cylinder and new rings. Thanks a lot.
@@murphystreeter Why is that? Any way the engine is running fine and has plenty of compression. The rust is not protruding into the bore, so the ring just skips past the slight pitting.
That rattatat is the crank journal hammering the bearing into oblivion. Proceed with caution and careful inspection before spending money on the new parts. I've got my fingers crossed.
Informative video on piston ring sizing. Question: I'm using a plateau hone tool made by Lisle to remove flat spots and vertical scratches/grooves using 80, 180 & 280 grit stones. The engine has thin steel sleeves pressed into the aluminum block. I don't want to take away too much material from the steel sleeves via the honing process. Would leaving a shallow and narrow vertical groove in the bore effect compression and oil burn that much? Thanks in advance!
Question for a question......does your aluminum block have cast iron sleeves????? My bet says yes. So you can hone away......as long as it's sleeved. If not, you can get a ball hone on the cheep. Even the steel hones will be fine, just be extra cautious not to remove too much material. Leaving the scratches in is ok. Not recommended if the engine is sleeved and your using chrome rings. If the engine is sleeved I recommend using iron rings because they'll seat and you won't have issues burning oil. Good luck!!
Sorry....my speed reading is terrible....yes...use the hone. You will not hurt those sleeves. Their harder than the hubs of hell. Clean it up and put in a set of Hastings cast iron rings with new pistons and you'll be very happy with the results.
