You don’t need an air gap, if you maintain the outer walls and roof properly it won’t get penetrated with rain water. It’s impossible to get an air gap when using standard insulation, you have to pack the cavity, for ventilation you need a small vent in the floor as in static caravans.
What do we know - we've only been doing this for 35 years! We build and install our buildings in Scotland and the North of England, where there's often biblical amounts of rain, and despite our customers' best efforts, water penetration still happens. This video and the one that follows it show a successful way to prevent this problem.
@@multipreach2674 In our experience, if you want a fully watertight building, you need more than one layer of cladding. Our single-skinned sheds are pretty excellent, but sometimes water ingress still happens. That's why our 3-Tier Sheds exist for customers who don't want to take the chance. We've also seen what happens when our customers insulate their buildings without an air gap - any moisture that does penetrate the cladding gets trapped and causes rot. That's why we recommend leaving the air gap.
Not many folks agree with this approach without offering viable alternatives which I'd like to see please. I'd also like to know how you ventilate a pent roof pls
For some reason, The Men of The Internet get very upset when we make these videos. That should probably be taken into account. They very rarely offer alternatives. Most of them just need a hug. The very best solution to creating a well-ventilated, lined and insulated shed is to build it that way, like we do with our 3-Tier Sheds. They're engineered and built with an air gap so it doesn't have to be retrofitted and the inside of the building stays completely dry. Our website has loads of information about this specification. Regarding a pent roof, what sort of ventilation are you looking for? Are you looking to insulate the roof and leave an air gap in the way we've shown here? The method would be the same - fix the battens on the inside to create the gap, drill ventilation holes at regular intervals along the framing, and cover these with mesh if you're concerned about beasties getting in. If the fascia is big enough you could install louvre vents, but otherwise regularly-spaced ventilation holes will be fine.
Im just planning out the lining and insulation of my new shed. Ive seen lots about a breathable membranes, so my questions are do i need a membrane, are the membrane and the air gap interchangeable? The shed will be used as as workshop, with maybe not so much use in the winter, but a real need to keep the moisture levels down to protect the machinery. Any help greatly appreciated.
Seriously?. Cavity ventilation requires much more than drilling a few small holes in the bottom frame. Any water that permeates through the outer cladding will pool on the framing, and for ventilation to work, it has to be open top and bottom. You could always design the shed correctly so as to allow a 25mm ventilation void and leave the top and bottom open.
Are you okay George? Do you understand that this advice is for retro fitting? It’s not a method if you’re starting from scratch. You could always do your own video and not be so snidey on other people’s.
Interesting approach- very different than how one might do it where I live in the US. What do you do to prevent rodent intrusion through the holes you've drilled?
Hello, thanks for the tips. I am fortunate my shed has been wrapped with a breathable membrane up the walls, would I still need an air gap to insulate?
Ideally, the air gap comes between the outer cladding and the breathable membrane. if the membrane is already on the inner walls of the shed you'd be creating an air gap between this and the insulation. The purpose of the gap is to stop water from penetrating the inner layers of the wall and to protect the cladding from rot. If you put an air gap between your membrane and the insulation your cladding isn't protected, nor is it ventilated. TL;DR - you can still do this, but your cladding may rot over time because any moisture that does penetrate the cladding doesn't have anywhere else to go.
Ok, so here's a question for you, why do you think it's important to leave a gap between the insulation and the wood... tell me exactly what you think the unventilated gap achieves.
Oh, I don't think it's important to leave a gap. I know so. However, the video should say to ventilate the cavity by drilling ventilation holes. I made a load of videos that day and forgot to mention the ventilation.
That’s me liking this video. All of your content here is so helpful (as explained to Cara via email this morning I need a garage to house one car and two motorbikes and would love to use you if it weren’t for the fact that you’re the other end of the country!)
Hey Mark - in our construction the roof ties in the walls to keep the building square, how do you stop the walls from bowing out if the support is not fixed? A runner for a roof that weighs 700kgs for example? I do suspect that you would require an engineer to certify the load bearing element of both roofs being set all to one side of the building when open. Originally when I filmed this I was imagining a roof on hydraulic hinges to maintain the weight distribution.
No, it's quite easy actually. Just a few castor wheels and building the sliding roof a little larger than the fixed roof section. Fix the castors to two sides, assemble a runner on each of the outside walls and you're done.
If the council own your property, you will need to ask the housing authority for permission (not planning) if the building is permitted development, they'll most likely allow it.
Useful video - thanks! My small garage meets all the criteria, so far so good for me. But you didn't mention anything about the shed/garage being in-between the front elevation of the property and the highway. I have heard that this might also be something that automatically requires planning? I'm putting mine to the side of the driveway at the front of the house.
Typically, if the building is closer than 20mtrs to a roadside it will need permission, but it's been at least 10 years since I've witnessed authorities pulling that one out the bag, I'm not sure if it's a thing anymore.
I'd be delighted and surprised if you could give a straight answer on shed planning permission. I have asked a few manufacturers (who all include the cutnpaste drivel on their websites) " you cannot build in front of main wall forming front elevation of the main house" blah blah blah. What if the house is L shaped? What if your garden is triangular and you have a shed far forward but slightly to the side? For the front elevation quote, are we dividing gardens into four diagonal strips, NW -NE is front, NE-SE is side? Or Is the front directly left of front corner? Nobody can answer this
I have shead but no have speace betwen shed and neighbor boundary. My shead is conected to the boundry but is less heigh that 2.5 meters ? Still I need planning permision ?
Should be fine, there’s another thing about building control which is dependent on the size of your shed. Also assuming you’re not in a conservation area.
Hey Anna - yes as long as the Cuprinol is Micro Porous it should be fine - we don’t recommend Cuprinol as a brand for G&M customers to use, Sadolin do a massive range of pastel opaques in their Sadolin Superdec range 👌🏼
@@GilliesMackayLtd hi thanks for replying. I've used sadolin classic on outside. My shed is a Major Apex Security Shed with 15mm Tongue And Groove wood. The Sadolin is quite expensive and the said not to paint inside but I thought that sounded odd. I was thinking of using water based cuprinsl ducksback just to seal inside. What do you think
@@James-pz6jc as long as it’s micro porous it’ll be fine to paint on. Because the board is both an outside wall and an inside wall - whatever you put on it needs to still let it breathe (let moisture escape) otherwise it’ll turn black with mould. So just double check it’s micro porous before putting it on.
Total support for this company. Purchased last year yes very expensive but a fantastic product. Look we are not going on holiday, we have money saved, lets support a successful local business
Very well explained. The only thing I can think of that is missing is whether or not there are to be any utilities added to the structure such as water supply, electricity, gas installations in the form of permanent fixtures, which also means it will require planning permission.
That’s building control - planning permission is aesthetics and purpose of use - building control is structural, to do with the safety and potential danger/impact on surroundings
Cheers for the video content! Forgive me for the intrusion, I would appreciate your thoughts. Have you ever tried - Mahorrla Wooden Paradise Method (do a google search)? It is a good exclusive product for building better sheds and woodworking minus the headache. Ive heard some unbelievable things about it and my friend Sam at last got amazing success with it.
