Hi and thank you for watching. If you were running windows on it, prior to trying to access the disk through an Ubuntu live USB, then the disk was most likely encrypted with windows bitlocker (but it also could have been a third party encryption application). In either case, a decryption key would been created when the disk was first encrypted. This is probably not what you want to hear, but unless you can find that decryption key somewhere (maybe it's on a USB drive, or maybe printed off on a piece of paper), you probably won't be able to get access to the disk ever again. However, the decryption key is probably stored on your TPM chip (that's usually how the disk gets decrypted with windows bitlocker while the computer is booting up). So, what I would try, if you can't find the decryption key, is to create a windows installation USB using the windows media creation tool. On the installation media USB, there are also a couple advanced recovery options that you could try to use to get your computer to boot windows again (without reinstalling windows). You only need to have it boot once, to turn off bitlocker disk encryption, or to just copy your files off the disk at that time. Here's are links to the windows media creation tools. Windows 10: www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10%20 Windows 11: www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11 I hope you can find the decryption key, but if not you might still be able to boot up your computer one last time to get your files back. I hope this helps!

Hi. UEFI boot mode will not affect wi fi in any way. While UEFI boot mode can support pre boot wi fi connections, if that option is enabled in your UEFI bios settings, that won't change the fact that wi fi drivers and wi fi router signal strength are the 2 most common variables that affect wi fi connectivity. There's also a possibility that you are getting intermittent EM interference. I've seen cordless phones mess up wi fi connections before, depending on where they are in relation to the computer, but it's very rare. I don't' have much info to go on here, but the very first thing I would do is start a continuous ping on your router and walk around your house/apt while letting it ping. Then look at the latency on each ping and that can give you insight into the wi fi signal strength, around the residence. If you're getting a lot of lost packets, then your router may not be producing a strong enough signal, or it could be malfunctioning, or you might need to reinstall your wireless network interface (wi fi network card/chip) drivers. I show how to use the ping command, for situations exactly like this, in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cOXorW2pcWA.html And lastly, it could be a malware issue. Malware often uses network connections without the user knowing it. So I would do a "malwarebytes free" scan as well. It's probably low router signal strength, corrupt wif fi drivers, or malware. I hope this helps!

Thanks! I'm glad it's helpful.

Thank you!

I would disagree because I have started my car many times this way, after leaving my lights on, and draining the battery. Is it ideal? No. Does it work? Yes. I've actually done it off a single 18V battery a number of times too.

Could I do a CLONE??

@@tonygillam-t3r Thank you! And the answer to your question is yes, as long as you already have that Win11 21h2 version running. So, there are a couple ways to do this, and the way you chose should depend on you intend to use a clone (which is also referred to as a system image). If you want a clone that can only be used on the same set of hardware (which includes but is not limited to, your DQ451 motherboard hardware), then the Win 7 Backup and Restore native app is what I use. But this is really good only for backing up and restoring file level backups and system images to the same exact set of hardware. I did a video on that if you want to see if that's a route you want o go: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G31wj2wii74.html If you want to create an image that can be deployed to other sets of hardware you want to use some sort of disk cloning or system imaging 3rd party software. A couple I've used in the past are Acronis True Image, which was absolutely awesome but it was paid software, and Paragon Backup and Recovery, which was good and free. There are many out there now that I'm sure are good. But to be honest, I don't even do system images anymore, unless it were to be for large scale business deployment. I just keep all my data in google drive and if I want a new OS, I get a copy of all my software licenses, I install the new OS, manually configure it quickly, and then sync all my data back to the disk via google drive. I did a google drive video too if you want to check that out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dO-dOeKc8iY.html I hope this all helps!

Disregard! I saw your explanation in another video! Thanks, anyway! LOL!

Thank you my friend! I really do love getting questions, and also sometimes learning from you guys as well. To answer your question, it depends on the hardware and firmware (also called system BIOS). In the case of my Latitude E6430, with the latest BIOS which is A24, released in 2020, it's capable of running in legacy or UEFI boot mode. UEFI boot mode and TPM 2.0 are "official requirements" of Win 11. Just to describe TPM real quick... TPM stand for Trusted Platform Module and it is a hardware chip on the motherboard, and it can run version 1.2 or version 2.0 of it's dedicated software, which in the case of dedicated hardware, is referred to as firmware. Not all PCs have TPM chips. Most non business hardware does not have TPMs. This is one of many differences between consumer, and business, level hardware. There is no bypass for UEFI boot mode on Win 11, so your system BIOS must be able to run in UEFI boot mode in order to run Win 11. I show how to configure that, if it is an option on your hardware, here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-h5cR80fjhkw.html But there IS a bypass for TPM 2.0. In fact, you can run Win 11 without a TPM chip at all. I show how to bypass the TPM and other requirements for Win 11 in this video, which is what I had to do, to run Win 11 on this 2014 laptop: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YVrkmogGYAY.html With this all said, the reason for the TPM 2.0 requirement in Win 11 is security, in a couple different ways. I don't recommend bypassing security options on any Win 11 system unless it is your only option. I hope this helps friend!

@@oscarmelvin8221 All good! I appreciate these questions, becasue we're collectively creating an archive of info that others will see too!

Hi, and yes you can hard reset it. There's usually a little pinhole button that has to be pushed down for about 12 seconds. After the reset, you'll be able to use the user credentials on the sticker again. At that point, you can verify the internet side of the router has connection, and then configure you'll wireless network(s) as well. I show all this in the video as well.

@@frankwestphal8532 thank you so much

Great to hear! Thanks for watching.

Hello, and thank you for watching. What your describing here is called system migration and the answer is: technically yes, but practically no. Ideally, this backup method would be used to backup a single PC, and then restore to that same PC. In that scenario alone, it will work seamlessly. But in terms of system migration, it's not practical. And here's why... The system image backup, if restored to a different set of hardware, will still think that it's on the old hardware. Win 10 and Win 11 are pretty good about making adjustments in the OS when the OS detects that it's on new hardware. But this is still usually a buggy process, with minor or major driver issues and/or software license/other issues showing up. For this reason, I don't recommend using this type of backup for system migration. On to solutions: If you want to do a single system migration, I did hundreds or possibly even thousands of these, professionally. The unfortunate truth is that, in all of my experience, there is no quick fix for a clean functioning, highly reliable, system migration, other than a manual rebuild. This video I did showing a migration from win 10 to win 11, can give you an idea of what to expect, and also shows how to do it. But it's an investment of time for the learning curve, and then the actually steps being done. However, when it's all said and done, I expect at least 5 years of clean, reliable, functionally out of any system migration/manual rebuild I do. And you can do the same thing if you want to. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O53zJLFtpXg.html I hope this helps!

Thank you!

Hi. This is a good question. You could try it, but becasue they will be disk partitions, I don't think it will work. Even separate partitions on the same disk, will still only be seen by windows disk manager, as a single disk. And the backup and restore application wants a disk, not a disk partition. It would reformat the disk and wipe the partitions anyway, I believe. But I haven't ever tried this, so it might be a fun experiment. But you don't even need the bootable USB to make and restore the file level backups. You only need a bootable USB to restore system images. So I would say just make the backups on the 2TB external USB C disk, and pick up a USB thumb drive when you can, and then make the bootable USB. The bootable USB can easily be made with the windows media creation tool at any point in the future. The windows media creation tool creates a bootable USB that can be used for system image backup restoration, some various other troubleshooting tools, and new operating installs. It covers it all.

@@frankwestphal8532 I understand that this will work "to restore on the same computer. But will this work to reinstall all apps & data on a new system that has a clean install of windows? In short I have a two machines with windows 11 (laptop a and laptop b). Will this process work to bring over the entire software environment (apps and data) to the new machine?

Nice. It always depends on the hardware manufacturer. Thanks for sharing this.

Hi. No, not with the windows native backup and restore application used in this video. I've used Acronis True Image for this many times, and that works great. It appears Macrium Reflect would also be a good choice, but I haven't' used it myself.

I'm not sure if I fully understand the problem, but the first question I'll ask, is: Is it a mechanical hard disk? If so, I think you're having disk errors. I'm just guessing here, becasue I don't have your laptop in front of me, but if you're running win 7, and you didn't put an SSD in it at some point, you probably have a mechanical hard drive. And any mechanical hard drive from the win 7 era, is going to be running out of life. I think you're disk is failing. You could try pulling the disk out, and mounting it on another windows system via USB to SATA adapter. If the drive is working, you will get prompted for the bitlocker encryption key. After entering it, you should be able to access the drive. But if you don't get prompted for the key, or the drive doesn't show up on the other windows system at all, when you mount it via USB to SATA adapter, then the drive is probably in a state of partial failure. I wish I had better news, but I think that's what's happening based on the info you provided.

@@frankwestphal8532 yes

@@frankwestphal8532 in the bios option no tpm showing and main thing is i have recovery key and password both then why i can't unlock it

Thank you for watching. When it comes wired connections between routers or switches and computers, you just need CAT6 cables that are long enough to go from the router to the computers. All desktop computers will have an RJ45 port, which is wired ethernet, and home routers usually have 4 of these ports too. So it's just plug and play. If you have a laptop that doesn't have an RJ45 port on it, they make USB to RJ45 adapters and they cost about 15 bucks on amazon. For those you plug in the USB side to your laptop, and then plug a CAT6 cable into the RJ45 port on the adapter, and also to one of the RJ45 ports on the router. Windows systems will default to using a wired connection if one is available. I hope this helps!

Yes. That will work perfectly as well. Just know that it won't also be available for other random storage. If you decide to use a second disk in the PC for backups, it should be only for backups from that point forward. (well, that's unless you deleted your backups and reformatted the disk, which you could always do). I actually do backups on a second internally installed disk on my desktop. Also, if you don't use Google Drive or OneDrive, I highly recommend setting them up. Between local backups and file sync/online backup with online storage, there is basically 0% chance of ever having data loss. I did a video on Google Drive here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dO-dOeKc8iY.html And one on OneDrive here... same concept for both: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JQ3ki35yTbc.html

Hi. I know what you're describing here. They added the option a couple years back to sync separate computers to their own respective GD online folders, which in my opinion defeats the purpose of file sync across all devices, which is how it's most useful, right?... hahaha. The way to resolve this is to first go into google drive online app, and consolidate any/all files/folders that are under both "computers" and move them to "my drive" if they aren't already there. That gets them all in the central location of "my drive". Then, on each of you computers, create a single google drive folder (single folder called "google drive" on each computer) if you do not have them already. Because you're doing a PC and a Mac, creating the folders on the root of each drive, would be easy to remember and locate/use. Next, on each of your computers open "preferences" in the google drive file sync app and what you will mostly likely see is that you're currently syncing to "my laptop" or "my PC" instead of "my drive". Click on "my drive" and then it's going to ask you what local folder you want to sync. Point it to the folder you created called google drive. And choose the "mirror" option (as long as you have enough disk space on each computer to store whatever is in your "my drive" in the online version of GD). Do this on both computers. Then both computers will be syncing a single folder on each computer, both of which will also sync with "my drive" in google drive online. The key thing here is that your files are in "my drive" online, and you choose the "my drive" option in "preferences" in the GD installed file sync app. That's how you get the app pointed to the same online storage location. Lastly, do a test sync of a single random file to make sure both google drive folders that you created on each computer, have the exact same data in them, and then verify that in the online GD "my drive" as well. If that sync works, what should simultaneously be happening, is that everything in "my drive" online, should be showing up in both individual google drive folders on both computers. At that point you should be fully synced with a single online storage location, instead of a separate one for each computer.

@@frankwestphal8532 Thanks for the lengthy reply. Maybe you need to do anther video to explain it. Because I still cannot get it to work after trying your suggestion 😞 You mention about choosing "MyDrive", the problem is that I cannot see how to change this because the field is display only in the popup

Oh nice! And thank you for watching. Yeah, the thing I always consider when recommending systems is their overall stability, and compatibility with 3rd party software, and their ability to integrate into small and medium sized business systems if needed, all three factors of which, are directly related to operating system marketshare. As of July 2024, windows operating systems account for roughly 72% of the all desktop/laptop operating systems around the world, and of that 72% (about 65-70%) are windows 10. When software manufacturers make desktop or laptop software, the largest pot of potential users on planet Earth are windows PC users. So there are just more options with windows PCs, across the board. But I also understand running Mac OS, because Mac OS was the original platform for a lot of the original high capability music, image, and video creation/editing software. I did a lot of work in Pro Tools 6 myself (hahaha), and love that you create music. Cheers on that friend! With this information in mind, in my experience and opinion, windows 10 is the most flexible, and therefore powerful, OS ever created on planet Earth, thus far. I have yet to see an example of a any version of OSX, be able to something that Win 10 or 11 cannot. But I HAVE seen increased IT overhead, and difficulty with locally run business software with OSX. So, if you do end up consolidating at some point, Win10 or Win11 is going to get it done relatively easily, and you won't need 2 separate OS anymore.

@@frankwestphal8532 Sounds good Frank! Thank you for such a detailed reply. You make some great points for sure. I plan on building a PC gaming rig with some real high specs. I'm one of those guys that doesn't go budget as I like to "future proof" so I can grow into things and maximize my time of ownership. It's funny though, I really love my Macbook pro for what it's good for like music editing and such. I'm just so used to it that i'm afraid to make a complete switch! LOL, But for gaming, RC programming, and ham radio related activities, PC has Mac beat on every level. I'll just run both since I'm not worried about having everything under one computer. Right now I have two Macbook pro's (one old, and one new) and a Lenovo (WIN 10) laptop so all is working well for now. But hey, thanks again for the chat and suggestions. I just subbed to your channel as well. I know I will reference this video again when I do my next PC backup in 30 days. Thanks again! 👍

Thank you!

Yes, and 07:48 I show how to get any files from anywhere on your windows C: drive.

I see, thanks for your help♥️

I think thousands of livestock ranchers would disagree, and I would too. I am not a rancher, but these are very common fence types in the American west, and for good reasons. The materials are readily available, they are very sturdy, and relatively easy to build, and build at scale. It did the job very nicely for us.

Only a nut job would comment on a fence building video 😂😂😂

I'm sorry I don't understand your issue. If you can explain more, I can probably help.

Thanks for pointing this out. I just read up on that a little bit and it sounds like in order to include a recovery partition, 32GB is required. Nice job!

Thanks for watching, and great questions here... A couple things in response: Disk defragmentation is done automatically by the OS starting in Win 7 and beyond. Also, SSDs don't' need to be defragmented. So you don't have to worry about it anymore. Disabling startup apps that you don't want running automatically, is good thing to do for sure. It reduces system resource consumption a little bit with each app that's turned off. Clearing browser cache and cookies certainly won't hurt, but the impact on system resource consumption would be minimal, so I wouldn't bother doing it. As far as anymore software tips, I would say periodically go through all your installed apps in "control panel > programs and features" and verify you recognize everything. If not do a quick search, and if you don't need that software, uninstall it. We just want to keep the software environment as clean as possible and know what's running on our computers. Also, Malwarebytes Free antimalware is an excellent periodic cleanup tool, to ensure you don't have malware. And as far as disk space goes, on your system drive "C: drive", you don't ever want it to have less than 500MB of storage left on it, but that is the bare minimum. I like to have at least 10GB available at any given time, but 500MB is the actual line that I've seen a number of times in my work, where the Operating System will start having serious issues running. And if removing data from the disk is not done, the OS will very quickly not be able to boot up anymore. I did a video on the system disk being full and there's a great free tool, WinDirStat, that makes it really easy to identify and delete junk data. Here's the link if you want to watch it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d3WGi0qsLjI.html NOTE: On any disk that is not the primary system disk (the one that's running the OS), you can max the disk out without having OS issues, but it's good to have some room on those too.

@@frankwestphal8532 Wow! Thank you so much, Frank :) What a comprehensive response. You made my day. There are still nice people out there :) My computer is 2T and I have 150 GB left however I am in the red. I have always thought that you are not supposed to be in the red that this is when the computer slows down but I guess the red is just a warning that you are nearing your capacity and not that you are pushing your computer to its limits. Good to know. Also, it looks like that the other things I worried about are not really that important when it comes to the longevity of the computer or how fast it is. What about shutting the computer down? I could not find any consistent advice on that. My computer is always on unless I go on holiday. At night I put the lid down. I don't know if it sleeps or hibernates during that time. Is it Ok what I do? Should I shut it down more often? How often? Thank you!

Hi. I usually get to reply to comments in about a day or 2. Let me know if you have a question.

@@frankwestphal8532 i have nothing to ask to be honest , but i was wondering like the last video uploaded is one year ago ig I'd like to see you uploading about what you love again :-)

Hi, and yes I probably can. Can you describe exactly what's going on?

It won't matter for a BIOS update as long as you have acquired the BIOS update directly from the manufacturer of your PC, and you know for sure that the BIOS version you're updating to, is for your specific model of computer. All a BIOS update does is overwrite the motherboard ROM. A system reserved partition is on the system disk, which is completely separate than the motherboard ROM.

Thanks for watching.

I've had this happen in the past becasue the google drive file sync application became corrupt. There could be a number of reasons for this, but the easy way to fix it is to completely uninstall the file sync app, restart the computer, and then reinstall it, sign in to it, and point it right back to your local google drive folder, in mirror mode... Exactly like I do in the video. Uninstalling the file sync app will not remove the local folder, or delete any files. After doing these steps, it should sync properly again.

I'm sorry to hear this. Did you download a hardware driver, or the system BIOS? And did you get the download directly from dell.com, or a 3rd party source? If you can still boot into BIOS, (by hitting F2 immediately repeatedly after hitting the power button), then you can reinstall the operating system, or try operating system advanced recovery. If you can do this, it means your hardware is most likely still perfectly fine, and it's just the operating system that is broken. If hitting F2 works to get you into the BIOS, then power it completely off again by holding down the power button, wait about 15 seconds, then hit the power button again and this time hit F8 repeatedly. This will bring you to windows operating system recovery options. You may be able to repair the existing OS. And if that doesn't work, you can do a clean install of the windows OS. If it won't power on at all, it wasn't the download that made this happen. Hardware can fail as well, as software can fail, and if you get absolutely nothing when hitting the power button, it's usually a power supply failure or motherboard failure. Both can be replaced pretty easily and cheaply on an OptiPlex 7010. I hope this helps!

I think this is becasue the older files in the google drive online storage (browser version) were uploaded before the google drive file sync app was installed and configured. Most online storage will error on the side of having more data, than less data. You can clean that old stuff up directly from the online storage version (browser) if you want.

Glad it was helpful!

@@papa7745 Hello, and yes this is actually one of the next videos I'll be making.

@@muzogul Glad it helped!

@@Brianb153FN When you re authenticating to the other PC, you need to also specify the domain of the other PC, which if it isn't part of a domain environment, then the domain is the PC name. So, your credentials when authenticating to the other PC should look like this: Other pc name\other PC user Other PC user password What's happening when you don't specify the domain, Is that the authentication is being attempted on your pc instead of the other PC where the shared folder is. Another way around this is to create the exact same username with the exact same password on both PCs. Then they will be able to talk seamlessly with shared folders, mapped network drives, and remote desktop connections.

@@frankwestphal8532 Thanks So Much! Its Working now.

Power it completely off (not sleep mode or hibernate mode). Then hit the power button, and immediately start hitting the F10 key repeatedly. You should then see the BIOS setup option, and you can click that and go into your BIOS.

Actually, I demonstrate the restore process in the video. Did you see any errors? No. That's becasue you didn't watch the video. "LOL".

Hi, if you're running Win 11, it means that your BIOS is already in UEFI boot mode, because Win 11 cannot run on legacy boot mode. You're good to go!

@frankwestphal8532 OK, I think I'm cooked. This is a copy of Win11, not from Microsoft

Hi and thank you for watching. Win 11 Home does not have the bitlocker option, so I think you're absolutely right that "device encryption" is turned on. You can verify that here: Select Start > Settings > Privacy & security > Device encryption. What I would do is turn off device encryption, then make the system image, then turn it back on after the image is created. This will avoid any issues with restoring if ever needed. Or... leave "device encryption" on, create a system image, but then test a restore. I'm not sure how "backup and restore" will handle restoring an encrypted system image. It would probably ask for the decryption key during the restore. Great question here, and I hope this helps!

​@@frankwestphal8532 Thanks for that tip you gave to verify - it did show that "device encryption" was indeed turned on. And following the recommendation to decrypt then make the image worked! To try find a potential recovery key for that encryption, opened powershell with admin privileges (task manager, open new task, powershell, tick "create with admin privileges") and then typed "manage-bde -protectors -get C:" (with those spacings and without quotations) and it indicated that there wasn't any key for the "device encryption". Found that command on this site: 'AskWoody' under the topic of "Windows 11 device encryption recovery key". After that, disabled the encryption and made the image like in the video. The channel 'ClearfundaTech' posted a video showing that you can see the status of decryption by opening command prompt with admin privileges and typing "manage-bde - status". I'm not too familiar with tech, so appreciate the time you and others take to make these videos. Thank you for your help. Remember, God proved His love for you at the Cross. Christ, the Son of God, died for our sins and rose again so that all who repent to receive Him as their Lord and Savior by faith are reconciled to God and saved. No secret code needed :)