Blogger, photographer and homesteader in the Pacific Northwest. You'll find info on gardening, beekeeping, raising chickens, cooking and fermenting on my channel.
You have no idea how much I appreciate your video. This is the first video I have seen that explains the importance of pasteurizing with short fermentation processes compared to long fermentation. Such a professional and well put together video thank you so much I truly hope you do more videos on fermentation and hot sauces maybe some kimchi
I'm so glad you found it helpful. I'm even finding that really long ferments are still quite active after bottling. One thing I may start doing if I don't want to pasteurize is blend it up and then put it back in the jar and let it ferment some more before bottling. I had a ferment go for 2 years and even that long it was still pretty active after blending and bottling.
I ended up using the same sunshine mix and never again. All my peppers didn’t fair well. All of them had issues. This year I am buying strictly pro-mix. Usually I pot stuff up in happy frog and couldn’t find that either so I tried to amend the sunshine mix since I bought so much of it and this was the worst grow year to date. I’m buying when and where I can find my soils and starting mix now at the end of the season for next season.
Yeah it is just terrible stuff. Gonna take forever to use it all up as I only mix a small amount in with my Pro Mix. What did you try amending the Sunshine Mix with? It seemed to do ok for me just adding a small amount to the ProMix. Maybe around 90% Promix and 10% Sunshine.
I like plain old pro-mix. It’s not great for the environment, but it works. Truthfully, I like whatever hasn’t been sitting in the elements and doesn’t come pre-amended with gnats. Those compressed bales are meant to rehydrated. If you don’t hydrate them, they’ll remain hydrophobic.
@@Levelc oh geez that's not good. I haven't had gnat issues in my grow room in years. I just don't use anything with compost in it and always get soil in compressed bags with no air holes.
Looks like that variety is a freestone type of plum. I forgot to mention that it must be an Asian type because the seed sticks to the flesh so it's not a European plum that is freestone like the Reine Claude d'Oullins.
Congratulations on your new property ! How exciting with all that great fruit! Everything looks so nice and green up your way, compared to here in Oregon's Willamette Valley. It looks like you have some of the long-time traditional varieties of fruit here in the Pacific Northwest. That first apple looks like a Gravenstein. They are an early apple (it's now the season for them all to drop off) and they get that light vertical red pattern over an overall green background. Mine have mostly finished now. The trees often have a biennial cycle with an amazing cop of great fruit one year, and then less fruit and smaller fruit the next year, unless you really prune to manage that (I don't because even a semi-dwarf in an off year makes a lot of Gravenstein). Your first pears at 7:03 looks like a Bartlett, or at least in the Bartlett group; mine are ripening now. They should get soft like butter when they are ripe - so nice! The second one at 7:35 is a Bosc. Harvest those before they get soft and they will keep for months in boxes in a cold dry area outdoors or in a refigerator, so you can bring out a few at a time to ripen and get soft. If you let them ripen on the tree, they get more mealy and don't keep very long. I harvest mine in late September/early October and keep eating them through the rest of the year. For any of your apples or pears, slice them in half and check if the seeds are brown. If so, they are ripe. Their seasons can be so variable, depending on the variety! I have both pears and apples that I've harversted in June and others in November, and all months in between, depending on the variety. With all those apples and pears, you might be able to trade them in at a brewery/cider maker, for some finished cider (Eugene CiderWorks does that here in Oregon). You may have a Gleaners group near you; they will do the picking, so that's handy if you are pressed for time. Or make a lot of applesauce and pear sauce, Or get a dozen dehydrators and stock on dried fruit for 5-10 years! ; ) I still have a few over-ripe Shiro hanging on my tree (it's a large tree too, lol, so the birds get the last of them). The ones on your tree are round enough to be Shiros, but very ripe/over-ripe. They are an Asian plum, so the fruit clings to the seed, and they are super juicy! The Golden Drop gets ripe later, and it's a European plum, so it's a freestone, with the pit separating easily from the fruit. And it's a meaty prune-style plum. So you can check pretty easy which it is, or not. Shiro is such a traditional PNW variety, so reliable from year to year and a great shade tree to sit under and stay cool when it's hot! For your cherry, I'd say prune every trunk way back and let new growth come out sideways and keep those pruned so you can cover the branches from the birds. I can see a young branch facing you, growing from the main trunk nearest your camera, so the tree should respond well with new growth. And if it doesn't, well, you were going to cut it out anyway. I hope you see a good variety of wild mushrooms on your new place, too! And good luck getting those blackberries under control!
Thank you very much for the feedback. This plum variety must be an Asian type because it's definitely not a freestone. Some of the fruits were more elongated than the ones in the video. The shape seems to vary a bit. Perhaps it is a shiro though. Just picked one of each apple and pear today and will be checking the seeds for ripeness as well as doing a little taste test. Gravenstein seems to be the most suggested for the first one. Our neighbor has one so going to see if I can get one from his tree to compare.
My advice is to have the property for a year before making any irreversible or big decisions if they aren't absolutely necessary. While the cherry tree threatens the shed/building, the fruit is picked by the birds before you can get it, and the branches are too high to easily pick, you might decide that the tree adds to the tranquility of your property, provides shade or habitat for wildlife, or just adds character to the property. If the building isn't immediately threatened by it (it probably isn't, since this building has survived the last 5+ years with the tree in likely the same condition as it is now), you can defer that decision to next year.
Thanks for the advice. Though we are pretty set on removing it. There's lots of trees on the property for the wildlife. We'll wait until winter though after the leaves have fallen. We're also concerned with the roots damaging the foundation of the building as well.
There are 2 brown varieties of pear that I know of. One is Bosc, as you mentioned, and the second is Conference. They’re easy to tell apart though, because Bosc pear stays rather hard and crispy when fully ripe, while Conference completely melts in your mouth at that point. So you just have to wait and see! Congratulations on the new property and all the bounty it has!
Nice looking property! That 2nd apple variety almost look like plums hehe. So many blackberries 🤤And lol at the raised beds. If you hadn't mentioned them I probably wouldn't have seen them 😄You could make some apple and pear cider and probably even plum wine 🤔Will be fun/interesting to see the "after" shot of the raised beds!
Plum wine/mead is definitely in the plan for next year! Yah definitely need to do some before/after of the beds. not sure when we'll start tackling those. They are very short beds. Might need to make them taller. Not sure I'd even call them raised beds. They are basically in ground beds with a small border. :D
People on clips are so useless and complicated. I threw a pack if marigol over my dirt. Just like that It grew beautifully Dont complicate things And make it expensive Simple is best
Do you eat these super hots raw to evaluate how hot they are? I had an odd seed in a Jalapeno packaage that produced a super hot and looking for someone who'll do a video evaluation.
So i bought pro-mix organic and popped some expensive seeds and went to put them in and put water to it and it absolutely refused to absorb water so after an hour i freaked out an fished them out and regrouped with some miracle grow organic (which I knew at least took water) luckily they survived the ordeal but they must have left out the wetting agent on that batch , after everything I was complaining about it and my better half reminded me I bought it at Walmart. Since then i mix it with something i know will absorb water
oh yeah most dry potting soils will struggle to soak up initial watering. I always pre moisten the dry mix before using and as long as you don't let it get bone dry it should have no problem with absorbing water.
@@markc3197Walmart is where I got my ProMix from too. Not saying you are dumb. Just saying it works better if you pre moisten it before you put seeds in it.
Hi. Great Video! Thanks for sharing your experiments. We've experimented with how to process garlic over the last few years too. We're up here on Lopez Island and process several hundred bulbs a year by hand. Our latest (and we think the most efficient) method is to harvest our garlic and let it sit out in the sun for a day or two to let the dirt dry. Then we peel back a layer like you did but we also go ahead and cut the roots and cut the stalk above the bulb. We haven't found that leaving the stalk or roots on makes a difference. Once it's processed, we can take it to the market to sell it as fresh garlic and if it doesn't sell that week, we can bring it back to dry in the barn until the following week. Thanks again for all the videos!
is there a reason you let it dry for a day or two before peeling? Does it make it any easier to peel? Maybe I'll try removing the stalks. Maybe the only reason to leave them on is for hanging but I don't hang mine, I just set them on a shelf and removing them before curing would save on room so I might try that. Thanks for sharing your experiments.
@@gapey We mostly let it dry because the roots cut more cleanly with pruners if they are dry. But if we wait too long and the outer layers are dry they don't peel off easily. Plus I'm usually tired from pulling the garlic and waiting a day gives me an excuse to procrastinate 😃.
When I harvest my garlic I hose it off with a garden hose and then tie it into bunches of 10 and hang it in the top of my polebarn to dry for a couple weeks. Works fine, no mold , no peeling . Then I process it . Dry as bone and clean as a whistle , and no peeling.
We don't peel, but this year I tried hosing off the dirt prior to hanging/curing, and that helped a lot with the eventual cleaning for market. Note this is german hardneck in upstate NY
I've gone back and forth depending on if I remembered to peel first, but it is definitely easier to peel before they start curing. I first heard about it from Territorial Seed.
@gapey maybe because in larger plantings, it's probably easier to harvest, set aside, and do all cleanup later? Compared to small-scale gardeners who can take that time at the start.
Yes I'll be interested too but really I peeled about the same amount off on both. The outer layer is just more dry after curing than before so it doesn't come off as easy.
Interesting! Thank you for the before-after comparison video. This year I had ants on the bulbs, so I gave them a quick spray-rinse. THAT WORKED PERFECTLY. Aftter the spray rinse, they were whitest-white, and I peeled off tiny-tiny bits of dirt-colored paper from the base, but nothing like you showed -- I did not peel an entire thick layer. Perhaps the outer layers have already fended off pests and developed more of the spoilage-fighting chemicals, than inner layers.
I've never heard of this, but definitely going to give that a try. I generally braid the soft neck garlic to store it and not having to deal with taking all that extra time cleaning dirt from the root end would definitely be benefit. Thanks❤
I live for your tomato updates. You don't seem to have any hornworm damage. Did you know that there are dwarf varieties that are variegated? I planted one (seeds from Lehoullier himself) last year but it didn't do very well. But my tomatoes generally don't do nearly as well as what I see on RU-vid. I hope you'll have another update when these tomatoes are ripe. Thank you.
glad you enjoy the tomato updates. I am sure I'll do another once more stuff is ripe and I get to taste them. I know there are more variegated tomatoes out there. The only one I've grown before Shimofuri is painted lady but would love to try more.
You are a good 6 weeks to 2 months behind us here in 8B SC. I started mine late but a lot of people were harvesting cherry tomatoes in June. Mine were going strong by the end of June early July and I had picked about 24 Cherokee Purple tomatoes towards the end of July. All tomatoes are still growing but starting to look raggedy. I'm pruning them back.I hope you enjoy an extended summer or fall to make up for what must have been a chilly spring and early summer.
That exhaust fan ducting is inefficient. Best practice is to use a 90 degree elbow duct and exhaust out of the ceiling port. (My experience with the ACI 2x4 and UIS ecosystem). Get 2 non-oscillating 6" clip on fans and create a vortex air flow to mitigate micro climates. As it stands now, your setup is creating an inversion on the floor that can be hospitable to molds and pests. Not to mention dew trapping and condensation of foliage pushed against the sides of the tent. Air flow is your friend. Haters are not!
