Welcome to my channel. I'm a carpentry instructor here at Green River College in Auburn Wa. The videos I've posted for public view are training videos me and one of my adjunct instructors shot and produced back in 2012. Certainly not Academy Award winners, but they sure help our students in our beginning and intermediate carpentry classes such as Stairs, Rafters and Cabinetry. For first timers in creating any videos for our program, I'd say they aren't too bad. We've received several positive comments and just a couple of negatives comments by folks saying they could have done a better job, or don't like some of our techniques. Can't please everyone and to date no complaint from students. If interested in our program check out our Facebook page Green River Carpentry and see a large variety of photos and information on our program. Thanks for visiting. Hopefully we'll be posting more videos in the near future.
For any who want to know, the reasoning from skilsaw about why you only go 1/8-1/4 turn to torque the blade is because it has what they call "vari-torque clutch" system. In the event of a kickback, the clutch allows the blade to slip which will remove some of the kickback inertia. If its torqued too tight it wont allow the slippage. The reverse threading means the spinning of the saw blade wont loosen the bolt so no worry there. This doesnt mean you're safe you still need to have form grip with both hands when using the saw. Just wanted to add that gfor anyone just learning about their new saw 😊
We used a skilsaw to cut the straight and jig saw for the curved portions. If you have readily available, you could make one pattern as perfect as possible, then using a router with a pattern bit duplicate the rest of the treads
@@glenmartin629 ok thank you. So therefore in your example total rise is 37 7/8 and your rise is 7 9/16. Does that mean that the rise is 7 9/16 minus the finish floor material, meaning the rise of the stringer would be smaller then 7 0/16 correct?
Each riser, when all the finished stair material is installed will be exactly the same. Watch further videos to learn how you compensate your layout for various finished floor material. At a minimum you would reduce the first riser (from the bottom step) by the thickness of the tread IF you are using all the same finished floor material from lower floor to upper floor, (example, carpet) Hope this helps. @@victortorres3187
Yes, we are teaching the steps for a typical stair. IF you have a different run larger than 10" most carpenters may have to revert to the calculator to get the total run. Such as 10 3/8" unit run x 15 treads. Thanks for watching.
Thank you, good info. Is there a set that you recommend to remove the housing screws. I believe there are tow or three star screws that take star Allen wrenches of different head size
Thanks for the compliment. Basically it is a hip rafter so it didn’t take me long how to make it. If you make on send me a pic. Keep it level, plumb and square
In the USA we are stuck with the fractional system so won’t be changing. Of course all the formulas and terms are the same so I would just enter metric numbers that would work for you. Thanks for watching and your kind comment
This was a great video. Thanks. I found a playlist showing how to identify wood by looking at the end grain. It might help other woodworkers. ru-vid.com/group/PLMVjQeszKDAwAuEqT8GzG24F2k5D0AB3v
You are confusing your poplars. The wood you show and the leaf you show are from tulip poplar (not a true poplar but a magnolia; liriodendron tulipifera) Tulip poplar is not related to aspen or cottonwood, the true poplars, (genus name Populus) true poplars are also used for similar purposes with soft, light wood further adding to the confusion.
What if someone that is not a carpenter and does not have a carpenters calculator, what’s the formula to figure out the length of the riser? I know this is an old video, but very helpful and I’d appreciate any help! Thx, in advanced!
Hey please make a video showing how to make a bevel cut with a hand circular saw on qtr-inch trim molding ! I know it’s way easier with a miter saw but suppose you don’t have a miter saw?
Boy it’s almost impossible to make a true clean miter with a skilsaw unless the trim is 3” or wider. If your just cutting a few pieces you could purchase a plastic miter cutting jig and use a fine tooth handsaw.
thank you for the video it was helpful but if i have a total rise of 25.5'' and i can only have 22'' of run i'm not coming up with the right answer it tells me i need 30'' run but i only have 22'' can you help me out ar explain what i might be doing wrong
Per code you need 10” of run. With 4 risers at 6 3/8”, you’ll have 3 treads for 40”. If this is not a code compliant stair you could go 3 risers at 8 1/2” and the treads could be as large as 11” or keep them at 10”. If per code, you’ll need to increase your total run some how
