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Come with me as I Bash the X Maxx, Jump the UDR and crawl the Trx-4. I favor Traxxas products but have been known to buy others. I do giveaways of RC cars to help pay it forward to people that might not be able to get one. Have fun with me in the hobby and the enjoy RC!
Hi there 👋 I am late to the party, but i just start in this hobby with my first crawler. I have think aboutbto go for longer shock - in my case from 80 to 90 mm, with lighter spring for 80mm shock and 40 rated oil. I want long travel and lower stand. What you think about that, will it work?
to all that have had a belt disintegrate- make sure you get all the 'shrapnel' out of the cooling duct!.. and make sure the intake box isn't full of weed seeds/mouse nest. A plugged duct will cause the new belt to run really hot.. and you'll be doing this procedure again... SOON!
In 2024 What would be some of the best tire choices for grip, especially smooth surfaces like rocks? Any really soft, sticky compounds that stand out? Im looking for an average size, not a larger tire. I'm new to crawling and i'm trying to get the best tire on the first try without having to switch to something else later.
Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching. Honestly, this video is a little old, and I have not been into the crawling game for a couple of years now. Life has taken priority, and I have not had time for it. I just can't give you an honest answer as to what is out there right now currently. Sorry, I really wish I could help more.
Just do you. Whatever you are comfortable with. Be yourself. I make it a challenge to convince negative commentors to turn their comment into good. You got this, just film a video that you would want to watch. Good luck!!
@DavidM-dg5ep hahahaha, sorry for the misunderstanding. Yeah, I just dove into into it. I am decently mechanically inclined, so I thought it would be ok, and it was. Good luck.
This is true. it will only handle up to 3 s. Even at 3s it cannot really handle the power and usually shreads the diffs. 2s is fun and doesn't kill it every time you drive it. Thanks for the comment.
@@BuyitBreakitFixit please don't appologise it was only a comment to help you with your chanel good content keep going and thank you for having a chanel that i am able to see and get information from
This was absurdly ridiculous. AND Hilarious! Had me smiling with how ridiculous it was. Agreed. I get that on my videos too. It's like people don't think we're able to do our thing. Keep on doin you. And I'll keep doin me. 👍
ahh man, this has been a while since i released this. Umm, if I remember correctly it is the proline 67 chevy body. Could be off o the year but yeah old school Chevy.
I always assumed droop referred to the down travel, basically the opposite of what droop actually means in the crawling world. thx for the vid, I am experimenting with a no-spring setup so the compressed shocks have zero force and the un-loaded shocks have "full droop" but apparently that would be considered "reverse-droop" because they are drooping due to gravity instead of being pushed down via spring. Reverse sociology is the way.
It is a blast! Very fun to drive. I actually just sold the UDR to a fri3nd of mine for his son, who wanted it very bad, and I just couldn't say no. I had fun with it and will get another one soon. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video! I'm saving for this same servo + mount & horn after my $15 emaxx went out not too long after a lot of upgrades and added weight.. and I especially appreciate the tip about grinding down the top 2 mounting positions--I knew exactly where you were going with that since mine liked to do the same thing and get caught up on the frame rails (and bumper extensions).
@Buy it Break it Fix it I'm thinking to add a thin, flat piece of plastic under the servo. I had already trimmed the mount earlier today. Now I see it. Should try to approximate the depth so, to be able to align the horn. Right? Already purchased aluminum fix link steering rod from HR.
@@daymonpancheri8846 yeah, I don't blame you with that. Se3ms like we always want more speed no matter what the vehicle, haha. Thanks for the comments and watching.
@@BuyitBreakitFixit I don’t care what I own, car, truck, motorcycle or RC, they don’t stay stock very long 😂 but I gotta learn from people like yourself what to do because I’m not that smart with that stuff 😄
While you can differentiate between batteries. You don't know what voltages you are running. You also appear to be quite an amateur driver and have zero technical knowledge. Good luck.
Of course she's faster on NiMH, ur talking 14.4v vs 2s lipo at 7.4, good nickel metal cells will be even faster than a 3s lipo fresh off the charger as they are only 12.4v(full charge) good NiMH packs at 12 cells will show 16v off the charger, they won't hold that long under load but it will be faster for a min or 2 over 3s lipo! Now what will really break the sound barrier is a pair of 2s lipos in series for 4s at 16.8v, drop the pinion 2 teeth so you don't smoke the 3sc and she'll run 60mph!
The 2 NMHIs do not hit 14.4v because the ESC is setup to prevent that from overheating the motor. 3s will be faster because more power actually makes it to the motor
@@BuyitBreakitFixit Actually no it's a CVT drive, it has a CVT drive belt and transmission pulleys and at no time does the drive belt disengage or slip unless it's worn out. I see a lot of RU-vidrs referring to it is a clutch belt probably confusing it with a clutch drive belt on a go-kart or lawnmower for instance where the belt disengages from the drive by mechanically loosening the belt tension.
@pdevonport doesn't it slip constantly until throttle is applied and it flexes and finally grabs and provides motion to the pulley for the rear end? Or as soon as you put it into a gear, it would start moving to the comparable throttle.
