This is the only good video i could fine of this mill running. I have the same engine brand new never ran mounted in a sworkz buggy i built. Mine has the nvision tuned pipe. Looking forward to getting it broke in.
I wouldnt...bc the rampage is a basher rc I think and you want that slop to protect your servo...if it's too loose ie your steering is bad sure tighten it up also check servo horns and linkage but this method was used on high end servos designed for some abuse
The Serpent buggy looks noticeably smaller than other 1/8th scale buggies.. the kit build allows for 2×2 2s lipo battery driving? I'm interested in getting an e-buggy, and already have Serpent 811te RTR..... it's awesome!
It's possible if you're using cheap servos....buy the proper servo horns beefy but fast servos ...use the tips and you'll be fine...anything above 300 oz should be fine for 8th scale
Why not just set it to match the max torque the steering servo can put on it? Hold the wheels still, move the servo full travel, tighten saver until servo cannot quite overcome it to full travel. That way, max travel on the servo saver is max operating torque of the servo, and no damage should occur, while still having good control.
If you bash run it loser or upgrade the part aarma is a basher car...gear stripping would be a bad mesh and possibly need a steel spur gear or a good plastic spur is kyosho/Mugen if it fits diff cups
I believe when an engine is new leaving the igniter on during a each full tank of run in should be the way....because when an engine is new everything is so tight and usually when you take the igniter off in most cases it shuts off as its trying to overcome to initial pinch of the liner during the run in process leaving the igniter on gives it that extra heat and allows the combustion to take place more efficiently with a bigger bang!
I don't disagree but if you use hotter plugs you can avoid that issue sometimes...every motor is different....temps, prep...so many variables...just don't run em ice cold right!!
These series were invaluable to me and of all the series I've seen on break ins, I think this is my preferred one. It was very informative and I like your methodology. As a newbie, I will be using this method, next week(end) and feel more confident now. Do you use after run oil? If so, after each tank? And is it okay to re-fuel while the engine is running, or is vacuum pressure required? Thank you for making these videos.
Never used after run oil ....I ran VP powermaster fuels for years 30/9 blend with ZERO issues or rust....even after multiple seasons of putting my buggy's away full of fuel for the winter ...if you can tune it'll fire right up next season no prob
I wouldn't recommend putting your car away like that though...hahah you should still practice good habits...just run it empty ....and yes you can refuel while running....this is typical of pit stops on race days
Hey so i just got my hands on a brand new reds r5t 4.0 and was wondering about it. I know its almost 500 bucks when it was sold but got for 100 bucks. Just wondering what i got
Just a couple questions. During the break in process in previous videos, about how many glow plugs and fuel did you go through? Also, I live in ohio too and are looking for track suggestions near central ohio and was curious to where this track is? Thanks
One glow plug for break in process.... Fresh plug for race day/race tune.... Usually once you tune properly glow plugs can last a very very long time.... I used to change them just to avoid mishaps during my mains....
