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Remember to also check the 2 fuses for the compressor to see if they've blown before splashing out on a new compressor .. and also remove both fuses before you start letting the air out of the tank to prevent the compressor switching on whilst working on the vehicle 👍
Is there a way to copy the original ID number from the OEM tpms valve stems to the new tpms valve stems ? Is there a tool that can do this ? Or do you need to replace the oem ID numbers with the new ID numbers on the new tpms stems ? What equipment is needed to read the ID from the old one and copy it to the new one ? Or what can program the new IDs into the car and erase the oem IDs ?
My back console slid out once, now it will not come out. My convertible Hood only moves about a quarter of an inch at most. And it seemed to freeze up after a battery replacement
I haven't replaced mine in years . My car was idling rough and the way I narrowed it to the disa valve is because I heard a vacuum sound. Glad to know people still work on thier own cars
There are two long main bolts (use hex tool) they secure the bumper to the bumper shocks. You access those from under the car. Also you can just unplug the license plate lights. You don't have to remove the 6 bolts securing the two bumper shocks to the chassis as shown in the video.
0:33, false, the top on my '01 325Ci goes up and down just fine although the right rear window is stuck at halfway. If there's a "computer" checking the window position, it's being fooled by whatever is the problem (likely the green pulley shown later is broken, this is reportedly a common fail and a new one is available online). 1:40 note that other YT videos (and commenter below) acknowledge that the exterior trim, or the clips securing it to the body, are likely to break. 3:15, when you "tighten" the ETorx 8mm to loosen it, DO NOT DROP the socket into the bodywork, much hassle to fish it out later. 3:25, those are 13 mm NUTS not bolts
How about if you put the original ignition inside with the new ECU etc… would that have worked? Do you have a set up for a 2004 BMW 645ci, and if so what is it going to Cost me ? Last question is how do I take out the ignition cylinder of my 645ci. I tried turning the key one click forward, and placing a paper clip into the hole and it’s not coming out.
❤...thx so much! Did you have a video to show how you put it back...especially...the doorkey lock with the inside door lock. How you line them up.. 🙏🙏🙏
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Hope the installation goes smooth for you. Thank you for watching our channel and hope you're already a subscriber. Feel free to share our channel with anyone that could benefit from it.
two females a while back backed into the passenger side of my 01 330ci and dented it in (enough that its 2k at the shop without paint) or 2500 for PDR to remedy. i was hoping i could get access to that spot which is right at the body line and door jam area (door opens and closes fine) so i could try myself to get most of it out then fill the rest but i see now that there is no access. i suppose i could cut my primered 328ci left rear quarter out and replace it with that but... i may just snip a hole on the inside and do the work there. (*yes, i know its not logical) but i could re weld it back and hid it) sure itll be a weak spot. but noone rides with me anyhow. anyways, thanks for this vid. bc id been real upset to take out the rear folding seat and side card for nothing. P.S. advertise your group in e46 owners on Facebook...
Hey guys I’ve been struggling with this questions for a while now but I get mixed answers… I have a 2003 auto 330ci and it has a short drain plug on it.. does it honestly block coolant from cooling the transmission fluids?
I replaced the battery with a non rechargable in my '04 E60 in 2014. So it has now lasted 10 years. I need to replace it again. My other key is still working on the original battery. Are they really good for 20 years?
For ppl complaining about the big nut removal it took me 30-40 mins so like he said grab a wrench that’s the right size but what he left out was that a skinny long Phillips screwdriver works best instead of grabbing it from the top right by where the wrench is in place go around the car and grab the screwdriver and stick it in between two 10 mm bolts hold it snug and it’ll look like a V or L the wrench in place straight up with the Phillips in between 2 10mm bolts and then hold the Phillips screwdriver firm and just push the wrench it’s best to do this standing from the passenger side you can spin the pull to your best location for the Phillips head to grab onto The reason I found out the Phillips head would work best is best a flat head is a lot more wide it doesn’t let you go through with ease this job isn’t as difficult as it seems
IF YOU HAVE A AUTO YOU CAN SELECT SPORT AND IT WILL RUNNNON STOP ✅😂 AND THAATS NOT A MAF REPLACEMENT ITS JUST A ELBOW BELLOW WHICH IS TORN DONT NEED A NEW MAF LOL
DID HE SAY THAT YOU SHOULD Remove THE SEATS, DASH AND E BRAKE?!? OMFG I JUST HEARD REMOVE THE AIRBAGS AS IM TYPING THIS! DO NOT DO ANY IF THIS... THIS IS HORRIBLE horrible
I’m having an issue with my 2003 z4 passenger door where I can’t get it open at all. When I unlock using the key from the driver side the lock post will go up and snap down 3 times and won’t unlock the door. I’ve got the door card off and manually manipulating the interior door handle lever won’t move actuate the latch either. So basically the door acts like it’s locked and will not open from the interior or exterior handles. I’m kind of short on ideas, so would really appreciate some input!
You have a deadlock, with that word you can search for some help. But shortly, if you happen to get the door to unlock by closing and opening multiple times in a row from remote you are lucky. If that happens, don´t close the door anymore but change the latch. It´s pretty straightforward job. But if you are unlucky like me and the door wont open no matter what because you waited for too long, brute violence is needed. I had to break the latches plastic cover in pieces working inside the door. It´s doable, but pain in the ass few hours job. The target is to break open the latch cover so much that you can reach the back end of a latch with a big screwdriver, there is metallic part that needs to be pushed to some direction which will open the door. It´s approximately found by going at the bottom of the latch level. This also has a video somewhere in RU-vid which helps to clarify.
