Injected Motorsports LLC provides quality vehicle/ UTV service along with a robust inventory of parts. We carry over 300 name brand products from Lift Kits, Engine parts, Shocks, Vehicle Accessories, Powder-coating, Steering, & more! We are here to provide a quality experience to help you get on your way! Thanks for supporting our small business!
Shop Address: 8470 Loop 570 Wall Texas 76957
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My 06 f350 is making a similar sound except from the outside of the truck. Like a roaring sound when you hit the brakes. I thought I just needed brakes bad but then I was backing up and the pedal sunk to the floor along with my heart through my ass, I shifted to drive and the brakes came back. They felt brand new at the top of the pedal and the roaring stopped but went back to normal a couple hundred feet down the road.
Hey did you have to drill out the sump hole for the lift pump? Mines not drilled all the way through, S&B says that’s right but just seems a bit silly to me.
yes they come sealed from s&b that way as not everyone takes advantage of the sump port so people don't have to worry about plugging it. But yeah you've got to make a hole there and insert their fittings so connect your fuel hose.
I have a 2012 with a 4” BDS kit where the steering is pretty loose. Will installing this kit tighten up the steering and make it more positive? Or is that a steering box thing?
You guys need to do the kryptonite ultimate front end kit with all of the options that you currently have with this package. That would be a one -stop shop!
So with the leveling kit, you went up 2.5” and fit 37’s? Just confused because in the description it says don’t go over 2” and only fits 34”. But stock is 34”, great looking build. How do the fox 2.0’s drive on Denali compared to stock?
I assume you're referring to the blog post inside. So as you know with any level kit the more you crank it the stiffer the ride becomes and angles get worse. Having said that my opinion is I wouldn't go over 2" especially not without the diff drop kit but we put these kits on at the customers requested height. Cognito and others give guaranteed fitment guides so they don't get in trouble pretty much. Other sizes and wheels can fit as you can see but its a lot of trial and error. We fit 37's on stock quite often but again the brands don't give that out for reasons you can guess. The fox 2.0's are a good shock but they obviously don't ride as good as the fox elite 2.5v, icon, kings or Elka's. Are you looking to do a kit soon?
So theres different options we have that have reservoirs or non fox the fox then of course the step up to ELKA's. The link here you can choose from which fox shocks you wanna run the base price is with the regular fox 2.0 non resi. Let us know when you do and we'll send ya some free gear as well! www.injectedmotorsports.com/injected-motorsports-stage-4-leveling-kit-w-fox-shocks-20-24-gm-25003500-hd
@@injectedmotorsports53 i appreciate the response . I was on the link in the description. And i saw you could upgrade the fox to 2.0 with resi but wasn’t sure if it was all four corners or just yhe front like in the video. If you could clarify for me that would bbe great. This is definitely the setup I want .
Maybe explain what needs to be done and actually show the work being done so the illiterate people in the world that don’t know mechanics will actually know what you’re talking about instead of just showing a picture of the motor and saying what you’re doing
Out of the 10-15 trucks we keep tabs on over the last 18 months doing just fine. We’ve used their parts on duramax for years and years still really good parts. Fitment is on point and parts have held up and some of the trucks go on lease roads often and that does a number on front end parts
Nothing wrong with suspensionmaxx we just like how kryptonite has designed the arms and uses their own ball joint which does really well. Our main 2 here in the shop are kryptonite and cognito arms for most of the builds.
@@injectedmotorsports53 I'm seeing some unhappy posts regarding the Cognito self contained ball joint prematurely wearing out at 30k miles because there aisn't a grease fitting like the Kryptonite control arms. Have you had any experience seeing this or is it unfounded?
@@bishop838 Its possible to wear out just like any brand it can all be dependent on suspension/ driving habits etc. Sealed joints have been around a good while and some like it, while others don't. Personally I don't think the sealed joints are failing early due to lack of grease, might be an issue with the bearing itself inside. Its hard to generalize failures since the external factors are so broad. The good thing on Kryptonite parts is the lifetime warranty but both brands are good.
When you put these new larger keys in yeah it will be a little stiff. Now of course with the weight off the ground but still normal to be tight while running them in.
older video and a good one, but your lines at the transmission are backwords...... To cooler goes to radiator and from cooler comes from aux cooler up front. Hooked the way you have it you could see the trans fluid temp maintain about the same engine temp. FYI
Just got into powder coating and trying to spray the same color. I have been having issues with edge pulling, was wondering if you have any advice on how to top it?
Is there a hard wire option or is the obdII really the best way to go? The install looks pretty straight forward. Im on the fence as i live up here in the north where we get lots of salt spray on the highways. I like the idea that they tuck up so they wont collect the salt and slush though. Thanks for any insight on the hard wire. Great video.
You can be its very problematic. Pretty much everyone uses the ob2 port as its quick/easy. They tend to hold up really well overall with the proper maintenance and the outside is coated with the gritty durable coating. If you decide on a set give us a call we'll have some deals on them soon.
for playing around with, sure. Not for actual emergency use. Why do you think they filmed this in low light setting lol. Can't see them during the day time.
@@Goober10584 actually filmed inside to show it in better detail, they work great for safety lighting during the day. Hundreds of kits sold and they all rave about them so not just to “play around in.”
@@injectedmotorsports53 ya, you filmed inside to actually have them be seen. They're junk and can't be seen during the bright sunshine. Overpriced junk.
I had to purchase the ABS & HCU bout month ago, and it works. Reprogramming the ABS bout $150-180 At Dealer. Remember to bleed the HCU one at a time, then the wheels. If you clear the air out of the HCU, there is no need for a scan tool
In all fairness the lighting is always needed more in the dark than during the day. The white lights during the day aren’t as visible but your blues/ reds/ ambers etc are very visible. Each company or first responder etc will have different needs and this is what they wanted/ needed which serves the purpose at night on the highway.
These "grill guards" are useless, and not worth the money. We rear-ended a compact car at 15mph in our GMC 3500 Duramax with a RH grill guard... The guard collapsed completely, allowing the hood/fender/bumper to buckle. We had $5000 in damage, including some broken tubing on the intercooler. If you're gonna get a bumper upgrade, get the full bumper that mounts to the frame, not this grill guard, which is essentially an aesthetic item only.
I agree that's what this customer wanted, he didn't want a full replacement just something to push bump gates with and looks. Each has their own purpose.
Yesterday my ABS light(s) came on my 2016 RAM truck's dash as I was driving out of the driveway. I took it to my local Dodge RAM dealer. They said the ABS Module had an internal failure. The diagnostic charge was $ 160.00 and the module was about $ 1,400.00. They said it would take about a month to get it in as they only use genuine Mopar parts. My truck is 7 years old with 32,400 miles on it. I purchased the Mo Par Max Care unlimited warranty which covers every thing (5,000) parts. The mileage limitation was 1,000,000 miles. You may say I have a lifetime warranty. That was the best thing I could have done was buy that warranty for my truck and my wife's car. Dodge does not offer that any more. All I have to pay is $ 100 deductible and I'm back on the road.
The older model trucks and diesels are a little bit different than this video. Most of those styles are plug n play with the ob2 port being used. If you hard wire them in then of course thats different and you'll use the factory door "ajar" wires. They are typically in a loom under the kick panel. If I remember right the trigger wires driver side should be Dark Green/ Purple and then just dark green.
