THE SHORT STORY: WE HATE HOW EXPENSIVE BIKE PARTS ARE.
Not only do we hate how expensive bike parts are, we believe bikes are primarily made for the sheer fun they add to our lives. That’s why we started PNW Components. We ride downhill, enduro, cyclocross, XC, gravel grinders… we’ve even tried unicycles but none of us are very good at that. We think bikes are so rad that we ended up working as product managers, product developers, graphic designers and engineers for the top bike brands in the world. During this time, we traveled the world studying bike markets and bike design, while learning from incredible manufacturers about how to create great products at low prices. What this means for you is high quality parts for a fraction of the cost, leaving money in your wallet to buy other things... like burritos. We love those too.
Hi, i'm heavy (115kg/254lbs). Is the suspension good for me? Or is it better to have a Rainier without suspension? I ride on sundays, city and urban trails.
I was servicing mine and I have had a very hard time getting the upper bushing to go back into place, I ended up needing to sand my bushing down to make it fit.
Followed a few others' tips from the comments and it helped so much: 1. Do not remove seat before breaking loose the actuator, it allows you to grip only something rather than the round stanchion. 2. Do NOT cut the cable at the remote to perform this service, try pushing/pulling/sliding the whole cable/conduit through the frame first for slack. 3. USE CAUTION with those brass keys, they can and will fall out when wiping down. I'm surprised it wasn't more of a bullet point in this video. I removed all the brass keys (5 of them on my rainier gen3) to clean/lube them and their slots, and then also removed the white plastic ring at the end of the stanchion for cleaning/lubing (it already has a precut slot to easily remove). 4. Remove the actual dust wiper to clean/lube it after removing the brass keys and white plastic ring. This was not mentioned in the video, but I did it anyway... makes it much easier to wipe it down and relube. It was nasty in there. This service is so easy it should be performed maybe 3 or 4 times a year if you ride consistently. my rainier gen3 is just so friggin good and it always worked...I friggin' love it, just a reliable workhorse over the years i can't imagine anything else.
@youling1997 I heard back from PNW today. They stated that the best place to start off is to draw an imaginary line from your chest/belly and have that match the back-sweep of the bars. I originally thought the best place to start was either with the rise perpendicular to the ground, or perpendicular with the fork angle. PNW did not suggest doing this as it would likely result in too low or 'rolled back' position. The suggested starting position from PNW seems a bit 'rolled forward' for me, but I will certainly give it a shot and fine tune as I ride. I just installed the bars today!
Top bad there is no sound in the video with voice of man who is working with instructions. That will be perfect. So, when the collar screw is removed collar can be rotated to desired position right?
I’m by pretty sure the only reason my new Loam returns slowly is because there is dirt trapped in the mid cap seal. Might also be a good idea to remove the mid cap and clean the seal…no?
You should have mentioned that when you put the top cap back on, you have a spacer underneath it to make the stem/spacer height rise above the fork....
How small device made with a lot of attention to the smallest detail. Made with feedback from the riders. And lifetime warranty says it all, my Big respect for that! 👍❤️
In Quebec Canada we don't have your brand in many bike shops when I see some of them they are often marked up quite a lot, that's sad when you need something and you can't wait for delivery 😢
