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Made a cut in carpet and the pad, and attached track directly to floor. Gave the track about 1/8" on each side, doors are only as wide as the track. no tack strip either and it is all good, even in walkway. use a little construction glue if needed.
Note: I used a 3/16th drill bit for the 3/8” concrete anchor. I predrilled the angle brackets with either a 7/16" or 1/2" metal bit. One 4x8 sheet of siding can make 3 sections if they are a little less than 32” tall each.
Very carefully - I picked the highest spot on the floor with a long level, put the track down, placed assembled door frame on track and used a cut off piece of track attached to the top of door with the floating plastic guide up about half way. This floor had a sag of about 3/4 inch in the middle and so i had to shim the bottom rail gradually and carefully underneath to meet the higher spots on both ends of the room. Alot of careful shimming with narrow PVC molding and construction adhesive on the floor, but it was worth it, the doors glide like magic. Same for the top, after leveling the bottom track, I put a door in the track and rolled it along and made adjustments to shim the board on the ceiling to be uniform with the door. I hung the top board with extra long screws so i had a gap to fill or reduce with shims so the top of the doors grey plastic glides were about halfway up in the top track ....
Old school trick for killing a live circuit but we use the side of our kliens, not screwdrivers. Saves running up and down, using tracers, or turning off other parts of the building. Word of caution, he is correct in short contact because some old breakers or old cloth wire circuits may not trip off immediately. Also don’t do this close to fine paint finishes or wallpaper without protecting them w blue tape or you get scorch marks.
As an electrical contractor of 45 years I use metal midsized plates to avoid so many problems. They cost more but save time. What you have done here is push the plate away from the wall so it is no longer flush. The plastic will crack as soon as someone uses the outlets and presses the ears flat again. Modern decora style devices need more attention because you have to adjust flush, alignment, and eliminate any twist. Twist is usually a problem only if the box is crowded but can be eliminated at device install by twisting the opposite of the offending twist or just wiring neet to avoid wires pushing on device in first place. Metal mid size plates will fix problems of overcut or uneven drywall, no need to use spacers or bend ears. Tighten devices evenly then back out screws about 1 turn so devices can slide slightly, NOT TO LOOS, then let the plate do the rest. The plate should make them tight with no slide. Labor is the most expensive product in any project or install. I use Mulberry Maxi single gang and Princess multi gang plates. The ears are for break off on old work boxes or for temporary outlets to allow for drywall installation, not for this purpose. Admittedly I have used them occasionally in a hurry to deal with a twisted device but avoid doing this. Also I never would stick a tool in the face of a device only on the yoke to avoid scratches. Decora devices are easily scratched. Hope this is helpful.
These are the midsize flexible 'nylon' plates, they rarely break. The plate is perfectly flush with the wall. I've adjusted 1000s of outlets with a screw driver in the ground, never saw a scratch. Plaster ears are stiff enough to withstand years of pushing plugs in, we have projects that have been in service contracts with us for years and not heard of problems of that sort ever. The job here is a custom home, that I did not box, so I had to fix it this way as the box is loose on one side, so a spacer pushing against the box is not going to do any good. I also did high production tract home projects where I have trimmed out an entire houses by myself in one day., this is how its done.
Note: Some suggest adding spacers, or a 'caterpillar' (or a cut a wire nut in half for a spacer). But you have to back out both the 6/32 screws and the outlet, in order to put the shims behind the outlet. And even then you might have to do it twice or so to get the depth right, very frustrating with multiple outlets, as there is no fine tune adjustment using that method. Spacers avg. 50 cents a piece, even in bulk. So why not just use the ears that are there for that purpose?? Which, if I wasnt video recording, takes about 15 seconds total, where removing the outlet again and adding shims is going to take much longer. I add spacers when there is not enough sheetrock for ears to push against. But this video is simply showing an easy quick way to use the ears, thats what the ears are there for.
I found this very helpful and relevant to my Reno project. Thank you. Maybe it's just me but I do prefer videos in landscape rather than portrait as I watch them on a computer not a phone. Aside from the viewing orientation it was well done.
Don’t stick something in n the outlet like that!!! They actually make little plastic squares that can be stacked if necessary to shim out the outlet… you can find them at any home improvement store or online.
You have to back out both the 6/32 screws and the outlet, to put in a 'caterpillar' (or a cut a wire nut in half as I do) or shims behind the outlet. And even then you might have to do it twice, or so, as there is no fine tune adjustment using that method. Spacers avg 50cents a piece, even in bulk. So why not just use the ears that are there for that purpose??. Which, if I wasnt video recording, takes about 15 seconds total, where backing the outlet out again and adding shims is going to take much longer.
The 'point' of showing this is to show you 'can' stick a tool in the ground hole to adjust it, it's shocking to find that it's safe, I know. You do know the video notes the power is off (there is not even a service feeder to this house yet). You would 'think' it might damage the outlet, but it 'never' does. I've trimmed out about 150 brand new homes and remodels, plus about 100 commercial buildings, no problem.
Yes it cuts really easy with a regular 40-60 tooth blade on our chop saw. Its aluminum so it also cuts easy enough with a band saw, or locked in a good vice with a sawzall.
it might not "weld" it together, but it will zap a hole in your tool. For example if you cut a live wire with snips or linesman plyers it will zap a hole in the cutting surface, making that part of the tool worthless, or a new place to strip wire.
Excuse my lack of knowledge, but if there was any current still going to the live wires, wouldn't shorting it with the screwdriver pop the breaker and therefore not even be at risk of welding it to the wires?
I have seen numerous wires welded to something or each other, if they are set on each other 0 seconds is enough time to weld them ! Yes hopefully the breaker will pop, sometimes I'll do just that to purposefully check or trip a breaker. Nonetheless the point is that 'after' all of our 'checking' with 'electronic test instruments' or other assumptions, and before you have to touch the wires, hit it with the metal screwdriver or similar tool.
Turns out a mouse was living in the chair also, although he made a game out of putting his tennis ball under the chair, he may have been doing this because he couldn't catch the mouse?
