wiggle it more. keep in mind the only thing keeping it from sliding down is the adjuster arm and that casting can be broken. have you used aflashlight to have a look up inside ? maybe this vairent has a nut or retainer pin on the adjuster. once the gibs are out its got enough wiggle room to come up. its not a straight pull but more lift one side and pull towards that side to get the clearnce. it went on, it has to come off.

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Hi, thanks for asking. maybe $50ea + parts + shipping.

@@thedp Yea thats defininetly doable. I can ship the units there and back to you. Do you have another communication platform where we can chat? (email/phone)

@@reyajerryaharris4539 hi - just been busy. google my name ->website and send me an email

I'll re-iterate - they are a good company with a single bad product. I own a number of their other model batteries which are great.

@@thedp Yes I know you said that Core's a great company and their other products are good, but the fact that they would produced the 70W PR 265 with no 'on switch' leaves me just a little queasy.

I do - 2:30-3:00 basically reversing the procedue. adjustment arm has to fit into pin on base. slide gib(s) back in. last minute is about reassmebly.

you got quite the deal !

Wow same as mine, got it along with my 80d

@adamr8628 since you already use it, would you recommend it? I want to buy one, apparently it doesn't appear anywhere for less than $240. Do you think it's worth buying it? I will use it on an APS-C body.

@LwijanBoje I really like the Tamron lens that I have and would recommended it. But I have to say that I haven't used it too much yet. Right after I bought it, I bought a used Canon 400 mm L lens, because I recently started taking wildlife pictures. I'm excited to use the Tamron lens more though.

@@adamr8628thank you!

I haven't tried a mounted lens shade, only matte box. lens does flare nicely and is reasonably controlled for a vintage lens. depends on your prefs and shooting sitation and intent.

AF speed is a function of the camera body. it has nothing to do with the AF micro focus adjustments in the lens set by the USB adapter. those adjustments only change the focus distance adjustment.

no, don't wrap the wires together. there is zero need for that, this is not an audio or data application, and then they would become too short, they are also not that way from the factory, its DC power going into a PWM power supply 🙄. solder tip above or below the joint has very little impact in the real world for this application, its all about watts and surface contact to transfer the heat.

@@thedp WRONG. Your soldering technique is crap. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Zu3TYBs65FM.html

Thank you!

thanks ! I don't own every piece of gear out there and a 3rd party didn't come through with a loaner for testing.... I wanted to test these against a very expensive master clock, which also didn't happen :(

whats a AF "issue" ? works ok for me.

hi. that makes no sense outside of a couple possibilities : they really got the antennea way too short, bad antennea, bad solder joints. if anything range slightly improved. I do know a lot of people have done this mod and they've all been happy.

tube changes freq response. even between tubes of same type there can be differences due to bias adjustments. not sure what you mean by "quality will go up" since gentle distortion is something tubes due well and people kinda like.

Not really Steve. The bias is setup in the local feedback resistors, called self biasing, in small signal tubes like the one we are talking about. The frequency response is also a function of the tube resistors and caps. None of this will change if the circuit was properly designed. The idea in good design is to make the resistor bias and frequency performance dependent on the the local circuit itself and therefore be immune to variations in tube construction. That is why I brought up the OPEN LOOP circuit which has none of these protections. Those will depend on the tube for the circuit's performance. (That is what a college education in electronic engineering will get you. I am an EE) So how swamped (their term) the circuit is will determine the performance as outlined above. Changing a 12AX7 with another 12AX7 of another brand, in a properly designed circuit, will make no difference at all. The proper designed circuit depends very little on the actual tube other than for gain. You might be thinking of POWER output tubes with their ability to have a pot for the bias setting.

There are a family of 9 pin tubes in the 12--7 tubes. These are optimized for either Grain or Power Drive capability. The 12AX7 is one of the worst in the family. These were made for cheap 5 tube AM radios. These can cut back on the number of tubes that are needed in the AM radio. This is called Economics. The 12AX7 driving a high Z load will still have a lot of distortion, but lots of gain. If you replace that 12AX7 with a lower gain tube with a lot of drive capability like the 12AU7 then since this tube can drive more power into it's load without distortion, this is what I meant by the quality will go up. This can be tested with an Analog Signal Analyzer. So the range of tube designs were meant to address these different requirements.

@@jimmoss9584 oh yes I know about the lower gain 12A_7 series. interesting idea to try a U7 instead. I've heard a few tube tests with various makes of X7;s showing more lows or mids or highs. The GE NOS / telefunkens tend to be even. I know some of these tubes are supposed to rated out to several MHZ but never investigated why audio would show this variation, unless the supporting circuitry is theoretically intentionally less than ideal design, then does let you play around with different tubes for different sounds. I initially bought this out of a semi-famous artist's studio with the stock Chinese tubes in it and was suprised they hand't of played around wtih it. I also realize that the input loading could also change the sound, this preamp having impedance adjustment dial which so far only seems to make a fairly small difference, even with a ribbon mic. These days I haven't used it much havjing changed audio interfaces yet again which sound a bit better than the old ones.

Try to keep this in mind. That preamp company ART, they make junk. Junk = Affordable. Google "cheap ass Mackie audio consoles". I knew Mackie. We talked about his requirements many times. His goal was to build consoles that musicians could afford, not recording studios. The same thing goes for ART. If you know anything about consoles you would never compare a Mackie to a NEVE. Same goes for ART. What did this ART preamp cost you? I see they are about $300 or so. A REAL vacuum tube mic preamp will cost you about $4,000 to $5,000. These are PRO AUDIO mic preamps. In these, the entire audio path is vacuum tube. This means not one stage, but all stages are high end tubes. Look at MosswareProAudio or D.W. Fearn. Those are the top of the line. There are no short cuts there.

in what respect ? I still use it from time to time depending.

its not a HDMI or SDI issue as both can carry interlace or progressive. I would set the ATEM up to progressive at whatever frame rate & res you need, and set the datavideo to output progressive as well. its set to interlace, as is the ATEM, so thats whats coming out. if you have problems with signal not being accepted due to mismatch of interlace and progress, get appropriate converters to get them into progress, or set cameras to progressive including outputs. failing all else, decimators to the rescue

@@thedp Thank you so much for your quick reply. Let me go and check out the settings again. From what I remember I couldnt change the settings to either 1080p or 1080i. However my Datavideo doesnt have a selection for p or i. Once I set to 1080p out on my camera i dont see a display on my multiview. I only see it if i set it to 1080i. let me go and try again. Its been a few months before my previous multicam live edit job.

sorry you are dealing with that. at some point you have to decide if the aggravation & time is worth it vs sending it to ecycle. :(

you could put TC onto an audtio track if if your NLE can read TC on a audio track - resolve, avid. otherwise no :(

@@thedp I do use Resolve Studio, so maybe I could make it work. So instead of stamp mode for TC on the 552, I would use "replace left" or "replace right" I guess? Trying to understand where that will put the audio timecode on an external recorder to allow for sync in post. Sorry for the extra questions. I was hoping to validate before getting an external recorder. :)

@@thedp OK... I might get a Dr-701D that has the TC input. That would simplify things.

@@GearZenChannel 552 puts TC onto a file it records. its a separate metadata track from audio so no need to do that although replace track is an option. so I had to go back and RTFM because the 552 is a limited TC implementation. yes you will need the external generator, but you'll also need to split the TC out signal to both the 552 and other recorder or maybe it will loop TC back out on the audio out. honestly its a lot of work. if you have the machines already, its ok, otherwise there are enough new multi-track TC capable recorders now like the MixPre series this might not be worth it.

@@thedp thanks again! I have a 552 but decided to just pick up a used Zoom F4 that will make timcode much easier to deal with. Maybe I will use the 552 to mix.

correct and how much the mic vs instrument level input changes gain or tone - it does and depends on interface what you get.

no. the shield would block the signal from the antenna - center, and these connectors aren't designed to flip the signal around. technically you could use the shield itself but that could cause other problems although senn does use the mic cable shield as second antenna for its diversity design.

@@thedp I understand. So if I wanted to make an antenna for this type of system, what material would I have to use?

@@sebashidalgo9320 some folks have found wound (stainless ?) steel wire with insulation of a gauge that would fit the SMA's. I suppose a gtr string with shirnk wrap could also work. looking for more of a spring steel wire. IMO, after also looking around it was a a very limited results search that took a lot of time to not really find what I wanted, or if I did it was a 250' or 1000' spool making the ideal material not economically feasable. in the end it was cheaper to get a dozen premade antennas. surprisingly last time I looked on ebay I only found one SMA correct connector right length antenna. bought it but it had large base which wasn't ideal for for tx. maybe if you look now there might be a cheap option, but in the end, unless you are talking about making a 100+ antennas its cheaper, simpler, easier to just get a few premade ones for $25 or so ea.

sure they weren't on M 4/3 ? not all APS-C sensors are a standard size, so a smaller sensor might cover, but IMO probably not unless its a really smaller side of APS-C

is it set for external word clock or AES or ADAT sync and either not getting it, or no getting a good signal ? word clock is surprisingly tricky signal - it wants quality BNC cables. otherwise you install drivers and do they talk to the unit ? even OS audio / MIDI setup up in Appliations/Utilities should let you set clock source, sample rate and bit depth, even with no driver installed. if you don't have a computer handy to plug in, probably nothing unless there is a reset button, and I don't think there is

Many many thanks

input transformers ?

respectfully, I"m not your personal audio tutor. if you'd like to pay me I'd gladly create this for you. I'll need to rent this gear which was gone from my ownership 10 years ago so that might be a challenge. Otherwise this is about as simple a setup as it gets and the video is quite clear how to hook this up. I''m not sure how much more simple than plugging AES out to AES in can be. this method will also work with other more current gear.

my on camera parts a shot with Rok 35, everything else with the 50

yes ! any external setup will work

@@thedp and the increase you said on the 10% is just with changing the small antenna ?

@@ManOfDecay yes a small improvement.

thanks ! yes it would work well for that, but also keep in mind you'll need a decent amount of light to get some DoP too. a 50mm might work slightly better. test and see

@@thedp thank you so much!