I would imagine that most football boots are TR? I have growing boys that go through a lot of football boots, some of them have the beginnings of soul separation. The Colle de Cologne RENIA and the primer for TR I would imagine would work wonders. what is the shelf life of both please, and let me know if I have my thinking wrong, will this combination be the best way to fix football boots. thank you in advance.
Jim I'm 40 years into the industry and I have been useing your videos to refresh my bonding knowledge for years I just want to tell you thank you for making these videos to help me my fellow shoe cobbler out there.
Either my pot is a dud or the glue isn't good on leather. When I try to bond it, even with using a heat gun to further activate it, it can still easily be peeled back. Save you money and get ecostick 116b. Works considerably better. I suggest you take a leaf out of Intercoms book, Renia.
Thank you for your feedback. In our experience, Aquilim 315 works very well on all leather - so it would be interesting to find out what went wrong here. Is your Aquilim 315 still fully liquid? If not, it might have been frozen in transport (like all water-based adhesives, freezing temperatures will destroy it). Also, make sure you apply a very thin layer to both surfaces and let it turn completetly clear for best bonding results. I don't think we have to be afraid of a comparison with the competition in this case.
How do you prep an old pair of your son's soccer shoes? The sole plate came off all the way. They are leather and the sole plate is made of light plastic.
great set of videos, I have been a Renia customer for years and was still confused about the utility of each product. Now, as far as the curing process of 72 hours, what temperature range can they sit at. My shop is not climate controlled unless I am actively working in it. how low or high can the temperature get? thanks
Love your glues! Question, So I've been using your 315 water based contact for my small leather goods (usually wallets) I've noticed that the pockets get hard to separate with a bone folder, would the SG line help me more with that? Also what would you recommend on burnished when it seeps through the sides, how would you remove it best?
Dr Rainer Buchholz, Wouldn’t using thinner to soften the TR used on climbing shoes work better as a primer than Rehagol? In fact, wouldn’t using a heavily thinned (2:1 or more) PU-based adhesive like Syntic-TOTAL as a first thin layer followed 20 min later with un-diluted adhesive (but with cross-linked hardener) allow the best bond to the TR and to itself when the two sides are brought together with force and some heat? Or does the thinner weaken the TR to adhesive to TR bond somehow? Would it be better to apply the adhesive when the thinner is hot and dry and gone, or cool and still wet on the rubber?
I would like to better understand the comparison (good better best) between Syntic-TOTAL and Colle de Cologne products for a few applications. I mainly care about rock climbing rubbers.
thanks for the video information. I have been wondering how it works with climbing rubbers like Vibrum XS Edge and Grip. Should I clean after grinding with acetone nd then allow to fully dry before applying Rehagol (and letting that dry for 15 min, and less than 60 min)? Does it work better with Syntic Total or with Colle de Cologne (stronger bond)?
This was not a negative comment: The product allows creating a more sturdy layer on the shoe upper. For someone with this particular issue, this can be a great help - the shoe upper is not designed to be walked on and can be reinforced this way. A lady came by our factory for years to pick up some QuickSohl for her son's shoes for this very reason, and she was very grateful we offered it. So how is this "not pc"?
Unfortunately, we do not work with any distributor in the Philippines yet - if you have an idea who we could talk to in that regard, we are happy for any input!
I wish i saw this video before i purchased the Brilliant Wax, i was trying for days to get the wax to soften up to apply it to my leather. But once i did, boy did add a nice finish to my projects! I have to try the Hooco Wax next time, hopefully itll be softer and easier to apply.
Dear Sir or Madam, We are sorry to hear that your experience with us was less than you expected. But may I ask in what regard? If you could let us know what your complaint is, we will certainly address it. Please feel free to contact us at info@renia.com.
Dear Sir or Madam, We are sorry to hear that your experience with us was less than you expected. But may I ask in what regard? If you could let us know what your complaint is, we will certainly address it. Please feel free to contact us at info@renia.com.
Hi Jeremy, I am sorry that the product did not work for you in this way. Did you try the one-sided wet application? This only works on leather, and not on all kinds. The classic method of applying adhesive to both sides and letting it dry certainly covers more materials - the water has to go somewhere, after all.
Hi, Im very impressed with Renia products and I have a question about top-fit. I want to line the footbed of some barefoot Huarache sandals with heavy duty canvas. I have a tube of top-fit and wanted to ask if you think it is suitable for my project. The whole sole/canvas construction needs to stay as flexible as possible as Huarache sandals bend with the movement of the foot in all directions. Would you say top-fit will accommodate this level of flexibility? Many thanks in advance.
Hi, thank you for your question. Flexibility should not be an issue - these adhesives are designed for use in footwear, so they need to allow maximum flexibility. Please keep in mind though that Klebfest topfit, which is sold in tubes, is not quite the same as the topfit sold in cans. The former is a formulation adapted for private consumers, which is more geared to household use.
Hi Shane, sorry for the late answer. If the question is still relevant: Yes, that would work just fine. Ortec does a fine job on many rubber types as well, but if your rubber needs to be halogenated, you need either Syntic-TOTAL or Colle de Cologne to work with the required Primer. You can prime the EVA with Ortec and bond with ST, or work the other way around.
Hiya, thank you so much for your help & infinite information! I am trying to restore a pair of 1960's dead stock WILLBOURNE brothel Creepers. After prepping, scraping off old glue (previous epoxy/rubbery glue residue) and wiping with thinner and then acetone I am trying to reattach the sole BLACK RUBBER (TR?) sole. I have purchased your (green can) Renia Colle de Cologne & the Renia Rehagol Primer. After applying Rehagol to the Rubber/TR sole & allowing 15 mins dry time, I am wondering HOW DO I HEAT CURE THE COLE DE COLOGNE (I was recommended to do so)? Apply direct heat on both halves (sole & upper) or sandwich the two together and apply heat on the edge? Thank you so much for your help. Very sincerely, Lizzy B.
Dear Lizzy, it is far easier and also better for the other materials on the shoe to heat the sole and the shoe upper separately. You want to heat the adhesive layer, not the entire shoe. Although a thick rubber sole also benefits from heat - it makes it more pliable, and you bond under less strain. The adhesive itself, Colle de Cologne in this case, does not require heat.
Please excuse the very late response - in case you have not tried it without our advice already: Yes, generally you can sew through our adhesives. If a contact adhesive is still fresh, it might stick to the thread though - the classic option e.g. on shoe uppers would be using a Rubber Cement like our Renia - Gummilösung. Aquilim 315 also allows sewing very easily.
Thank you very much for the great videos. I found that this info directly from you very valuable. just curious, are the "English version" coming out for each product as well?
Ein klasse Format, die Firma und die Klebstoffe vorzustellen. Gefällt mir sehr gut. Der syntic ist ein klasse Klebstoff mit dem man Bomben Verbindungen hin bekommt. Ich persönlich würde mir eine höhere Anfangsklebrigkeit wünschen, da es ab und an mal passiert, dass Sohlen oder Absätze während des Pressvorgangs verrutschen. Wie gesagt passiert eher selten, aber wäre durch eine höhere Anfangsklebrigkeit zu lösen.
Vielen Dank für das Lob! Syntic-TOTAL hat allerdings schon für einen PU-Kleber eine vergleichsweise hohe Anfangsklebrigkeit, und das ohne Aktivieren - die meisten PU-Klebstoffe sind kalt ja völlig stumpf. Die Klebrigkeit steigt durch Wärmeaktivierung deutlich an, erreicht aber nicht die Werte eines Schnellklebers. Da macht nun einmal leider die Chemie nicht mit.
