We are a DCC primarily HO Scale model railroad. The foot print is in its own 850sqft room. It has over 750ft of PECO track, 4 main lines and 3 levels, with 27 right hand PECO turnouts, and 46 left hand PECO turnouts, 2 WYE turnouts with all being Electrofrog. It also has operating automobiles that travel through out the railroad. This model railroad is privately owned and operated in Palisade Colorado. We model, build, install DCC sound decoders in all our and customer locomotives. We fabricate and landscape our layout to enjoy and entertain ourselves and others..
Thanks for this. I just converted a loco to the DC can motor, and was wondering what decoder was needed for DCC conversion. It seems the Tsunami doesn't have provision for a rotation/chuff sensor, but CV114 adjust chuff rate. Have you played with this -- as someone else commented, the chuff is way too fast.
Thank you for posting this! definitely gonna give it a try. what's the worst thing that can happen (other than electrocution or burning my house down)?😁I am kidding, I understand electric well enough to be safe. I built a static grass machine, and my heart is still working fine, so I think I'll give this a try!
hello I recently saw your res. soldering unit. I purchased what you show on line. power supply 110vac input 12vdc output 30amp, dimmer 12vdc input 12vdc variable output 30a with foot sw. I used 12ga stranded wire. and 10 ga. stranded to work probe and 10ga to ground post. carbon rod etc. I get 12vdc out to dimmer to ft. sw. but I don't seem to get any amp. to solder my brass part. any ideas. again built and used same parts as you are showing. thanks mike
@@cllhmodelrailroad1867 I rechecked everything as far as my connections etc. I also noticed that when I connect my gr. probe and my work probe my power supply cuts out. maybe I can't use cheap parts. any other suggestions. thanks again. I'm thinking of buying new power supply and a new dimmer maybe of better quality.
Hi, it sounds odd that when you connect everything your power supply looses power. Amps are important in welding. Just cause it says the amp rating it doesn't mean it's a continuous amount. The power supply must be strong enough to push the amperage continually. Another thing is the parts your grounding, have they been stripped of any paint or varnish? Sorry your having issues. I know this works, I use it all the time and other modelers have built it and it works for them too. Stay on it, you'll figure out the issue, probably a little step that's causing the issues.
The IPhone 7 is about the best option because of size restrictions. This is probably one of my most used locos. Oh and you might want a better keep alive then the little capacitor That comes with the decoder?
As others have asked how did you handle the splitting on the axel gears I replaced mine with Athearn axle gears. Nice video. I esp likes the frame milling to fit the replacement motor. Hal
thank you for your video, I used your explanation and parts and built my own soldering station. I used a 12v 30 A power supply, same dimmer and instead of soldering Iron i bought 16 gauge wire with alligator clips that directly connect to the output of the dimmer, one is negative and the other clip holds a 4 mm carbon gouging rod (Cut to 3 inches ). works brilliantly so far ! the only difference i have is, i put the foot switch between the mains and the power supply so its never powered on unless activated. everything was bought off amazon for all under $75 in Jan 😀2024
I need to access the motor on mine for Matanince What is the easiest way to get the shell off and get access to the motor without taking the shell apart
There's no way to get to the motor without disassembling the shell. It will come apart in three pieces. Flip the loco upside down and unscrew the screws along the middle of the loco and the shell should come off of the frame.
I've been having some issues sold in g joints that are near previous soldered joint without coming unsoldered or out of alignment. resistance soldering would be my solution then? I have the ability to make this so I'm thinking of giving it a shot. I see some people use transformers specifically and your using a power supply which I guess they are one in the same. what thickness of brass are you able to solder in your experience? thank you for your time
Hi and thanks for your question. So if you were to build a brass locomotive from the start, you would be using a resistance soldering unit for the reasons you discussed. What your doing with this device is your welding the pieces together, not soldering. A little side note here is to use a low heat solder as well.
@@cllhmodelrailroad1867 okay cool good tip I never really pay attention to the melting point of solder but I will definitely look for it next time I'm out to solder. now I want to build myself a resistance soldering unit I know all the components I will need but I'm not sure what size transformer would be good. what are good parameter to stay with in for a transformer? I know 115volt primary but I have seen multiple secondary used anywhere from 6volt to 24volt using a power control kno, and with a power of 50VA to 250VA one forum said. what specs would you recommend in a transformer? thank you for responding back I appreciate the wisdom.
Thanks for sharing this. I built one using an old 650W computer power supply and solder off the 5V output and use it exclusively to solder copper wire rolling ball sculptures. I couldn't have done it without your video so much appreciated. My Machine: ru-vid.commAhxsKRF6-I?si=MpGYPSojyY7Lzsa9 My last rolling ball sculpture: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dAo9GpIjYl8.html
Over here in Wichita Kansas watching you lol . . . great info. The shell is wide enough to put a big round can motor inside which can be found on evil bay with the correct search words. If the can motor you find has a lower rpm level it'll make the locomotive pull harder and will allow the creep speed to be very realistic in the locomotives movements
Enjoyed the update/restoration. Just as a suggestion, get yourself a tripod for your camera and match your colors on the wiring. I do not mean to be nasty, but just a suggestion to improve your presentation. Great job.
FYI Micromark now offers a unit for $200. Problem is, all it states in the ad is "63 watts". It has high and low outputs but doesn't say what the output voltage and current capability is.
I was just ready to plunk down a bunch of Benjamins and jump full into resistance soldering when I came across your video! First, it is the best diy video - you actually show, and list, everything it takes to get the job done. Most other videos are vague - a transformer - ? What the heck kind! There are a million! Now I am ready to break one Benjamin, have some change and melt some solder! My question is this, how is your power supply holding up?? In many different ways I have worked with DC current most of my life and DC is great, but converting AC to DC is always where the issues are. If yours is carrying the load I am ready to jump in! Thank you for your time and your great videos.
Hi and thanks for commenting. A couple of things I want to express from this video. 1st the power supple is working great, some people have purchased a larger power supply but be aware that with allot of power comes heat and for delicate parts they will most likely melt. I would suggest a variable power unit so you can adjust how much output you have. 2nd, this type of soldering isn't designed to heat up the area to be soldered like a conventional unit. But that you use it more like a welder using the arch from the carbon tip to solder the part.
Working on a video now on a complete restoration of a Balboa union pacific brass PA1 and PB2 with 5 brass passenger cars. Paint, re motor, DCC and sound, with interior and lighting in all the passenger units.
Thank you so much for sharing. I'm just a little ways into 2 rail O scale as ho was getting just a lil small to see. Have collected a few CLW brass kits to build and am stoked to get started on them. $600 plus for a RSI was just to much, Then bingo you popped up and well I'm gonna try your design. Thank you so much!....
Just a heads up on the soldering station. Once in operation, practice on various scrap pieces. This type of soldiering will take some practice to make perfect.
Great job! I'm impressed. I just bought a Proto 2000 Heritage 0-6-0, but it didn't come with instructions. I've read that the instructions include info on replacing the lighting, as you have done. I wonder if you would mind sharing how it's supposed to be done. This is the most detailed engine I've ever handled, and I don't want to break anything. I've managed to get the boiler loose, but I can't see how to remove the cab, so I don't know how to correctly remove the boiler to get at the headlight.
Hi there! I am working on one of these locos turning it into an NYC prototype. What backhead did you use for this project? I want to add a backhead to mine but am unsure what will fit. Thanks and great job on the conversion!
Hi, thanks for writing. Actually I used a backhead I had laying in a box. I had to trim it to fit. I suggest looking for a backhead that already has the detail in it. You will want it as flat as possible because the room for it is very limited. No matter what you use I'm sure you will have to trim it to fit. Good luck, have fun
@@cllhmodelrailroad1867 thanks for the response! Do you happen to know who made your backhead? Trimming it wouldn’t be an issue but I certainly am not sure where to get one
Posted question in wrong place first time so hopefully I've got it where it needs to be. Why use the carbon tip on the soldering iron? Why not just use the original tip built on to the iron?
Great informative video . Thank you for sharing I am doing the same job on a early Proton GP 20. I will do do the same as you to isolate the frame. What Epoxy did you use to stick the plate back on to the trucks. What is your thoughts on changing the metal part for plastic like Proton has done on their later model.Also all my axles have cracked what do you think on giving them all a good clean then super gluing the axles on to the plastic gearwheel.. as here in the U.K its hard to get American parts & now expensive to buy from America......Thank you again from a U.K. Modeller Brian
Hi, you gave me a good list to answer. Ok so for the glue I used I would suggest 5 min epoxy on the trucks. I understand about the gears and the cost.. heres what I've done and it works well. What you have to do is get the parts supper clean. I use grease and wax remover from an autobody repair store and quality! Then a small paint brush and clean the parts real well. Let everything dry real well then use an autobody repair epoxy. I use a two part panel adhesive. It's expensive so buy the smallest amount possible. Mix some up.1:1 with a tooth pick and carefully apply. The adhesive to the cracked gears making sure the adhesive is in the crack. Then slide them back onto the axle. Hears an important thing...make sure you get excess adhesive out of the gear channels. Make sure the cracks in the gears are closed together. I use a pair of larger tweezers and clamp snuggly. Make sure they are in the right spot and it looks good, let dry over night. I don't like super glue cause it will fracture under a load. Good luck.this takes time but works great!
I have question for you, I made a similar set up as yours but with a more powerful(50 AMP) power supply, the probe and the ground wires are connected directly to the power supply (I did not connect it to a dimmer), the problem is, when I complete the circuit to solder, the fan stops working until I lift the probe, then it starts again, does the fan in your power supply behave this way? thanks.
No mine stays on..I'm wondering if you disconnected the ground wire from your design and wire it the way I did if your problem would stop. I'm thinking it's shorting out your power supply, or puttingto much load on it..??
@@cllhmodelrailroad1867 someone explained a more reasonable possibility , he says when "I'm soldering, the voltage drops too low for the fan to run," which makes sense, I'll check other possibilities, thank you for taking the time to reply.
@@cllhmodelrailroad1867 Mate Mine did the same thing did you try disconnecting the earth on the power lead as suggested and did it work? If not did you work out a solution? My power supply drops all voltage not just the fan when it sees the short circuit.
@@weepierre101 Hi, I abandoned the idea of using a ready made power supply, but instead I used an old microwave transformer and removed the top wire coil( secondary?) portion and wrapped 3 turns of 4AWG wire, it works perfectly as a low resistance soldering. as you can guess I am a total novice in electrical world but this LRS works better than I had hoped. good luck.
