Do you have any blind spots from the sails, rigging, mast or boom being in front of the radar? I ask because I am debating whether to do pole mount or mast mount. Mast mount would be easiest for me, but I know I will probably have a 20-degree blind spot straight aft because of mast just behind radar.
Anyone who’s response is to “learn to captain your boat” and similar… your saying this to a person who researched, planned, CUT a giant hole in their hull and successfully installed a bow thruster on their own. Logic dictates this person is HIGHLY unlikely to be lacking in basic seamanship skills…. Do the math. Amazing content, very focused and pleasant delivery, don’t change a thing Sir.
Quick Technical Question: can you recommend a mast rotation sensor / solution? I have a Van Dam 38 with a rotating carbon wing mast and would like to add a sensor that I can integrate into my B&G system. Thank you
Unfortunately I haven’t found one either. Not sure if anyone makes them. I did think about using a rudder sensor, but not sure if the data from that can be used to correct the wind angle data. Other option is to mount the wind sensor on the deck
@jacobkollerup & @ianandrewes You used pipes with an outside diameter of A) 40 mm and B) 30 mm. How thick is the wall thickness? 1 or 2 mm? How much air is needed between the two pipes so that they can slide freely? Is 1 or 2 mm enough? You might have 3 mm and use a sliding ring as well. So 40/36 mm (with 2 mm wall thickness) and 34/30 mm, here we have an air gap of 1 mm! Why do you use the thick pipe at the top and the thin pipe at the bottom? The rig manufacturers do it the other way round! Although I am of the opinion that the same amount of force is exerted at both ends.
Hi, the tubes are 40/37 and 30/27. Please note that the tubes are not touching each other. The machined delrin rings are doing all the sliding action. Reason for having the bigger tube up is to avoid water from seeping in where the two tubes meet. The rod kicker is only under compression, so it makes no difference.
@@jacobkollerup Thank you very much Jacob for your quick reply. As I understand you, the gas pressure spring is only fixed to the lower tube. It is loose at the top. Correct? What is your sailing experience with the rod kicker? Many professional manufacturers have a pulley at the top of the kicker where they distribute the tension from the tackle evenly on both sides. You solved it differently. What are your experiences? Harken has made its boomvang "Vangmaster" pneumatic (presumably from the bicycle front fork) does that offer any advantage? The tensile forces are held by the tackle, so you can probably also make the mounts for the mast and boom in Dellrin? Based on your experience, what would you change or improve the next time you build a kicker? Cheers Chris
Hello. I have a brass propeller that needs some love. What kind of chemical did you use? People yold me to use CLR but i think it eats the brass. And im agraid of unbalancing the prop. Cheers
Hi! Using normal acetic acid 32% (well at least normal household chemical from the supermarket here in Denmark). Perfectly safe for brass, but not for barnacles:)
Hi. Thank you for your videos. So, I noticed that you've changed boats, but I have a question about the equipment on your Oceanis 34. It seems that you have a forced air heater. I saw a vent in the video (at 4min32). I have the same boat and I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out which diesel heater model to use and where to install it. Could you tell me the model of this equipment on the boat and where it was installed? Thanks in advance.
Hi. I believe it was a Webasto 3400 unit (diesel heater). It was installed in the port aft cabin under the stern porthole. You can lift up the shelf there. It’s a good location since it’s fairly close to the diesel tank
Hi, it’s the max power ct 35 with a Ø125 mm tunnel. If you want to see another thruster install, then have a look at my other videos. Did another install a few years ago
Looks great! I recommend that you make the gas strut connection to the lower tube floating or not fixed so the boom can overextend upwards without putting extreme tension on the gas strut itself. Also, it will allow some swiveling action between the two carbon tubes so you do not need the swivel connection at the boom. Good luck
Wot a great install, video Looked a bit like an engineer fit. All I can offer to that perfect install is invest in getting some hole saws. Just less work. Well done 😎👍
Thanks a lot! Yes, I did search all over for a suitable hole saw, but the ones I found basically costs the half of the bow truster! So the old jigsaw came to the rescue🤗
Great video, love your workshop and thanks for sharing, very innovative! I am about to do a design up on CAD to have cut and welded by someone else, sadly I don’t have your great workshop :-( It has been a year now, have you decided with using it in that time if the tilt was a worthwhile thing to include?
Thanks! We actually sold the boat by the end of the season. We have a video explaining why, long story!. Anyway, I still think the tilting is worth having. Since you have to make a lot of other parts, adding the tilt function is not that much extra work . It of course depends of what kind of sailing you do, but if you feel that having a nice radar setup gives you more confidence and safety onboard, go for it:)
@@jacobkollerup thanks so much for your reply and yes I agree, it’s easy enough to include and a worthwhile addition for the benefits. We will be live aboard’s, doing a lot of sailing, great to have this simple addition
Your video gave me the courage to take on the project of installing a new Vetus Pro bow thruster to my new project on a 1995 Nordhavn that really needed the upgrade. I've been stuck in a boatyard in Virginia for almost a year now waiting on them to "get around" to installing the tube for me. After watching your process I dove right in and got it done! It turned out really nice. I have had fiberglass experience and this is my 7th yacth renovation but the first time I actually installed the tube myself. No more waiting and boat yards thanks to you!
@@jacobkollerup I demand perfection. :) But in all seriousness, great job! Fun project. I'm doing a linear actuated helm panel - talk about overkill....
Hi, I just saw your video about installing solar panel on deck, I was wondering if the boom did not cover the solar panel? On a sunny day how much was this single panel charging? Thanks. Bob
It really depends on many factors of how much shade you’ll get. We found that most charging is done when the boat is docked in the marina. When out sailing you’ll probably get shadows from the sails or might be heeled over away from the sun which will decrease the solar input. On a sunny (Scandinavian) day and when docked in the marina we’ll get around 300wh on the batteries. Basically we never really had the boat connected to shore power since installing the panel🔋☀️
Thank you! I ran some FEM analysis on it and with wind up to 50 knots it still had a good safety margin. It’s a quiet light weight build compared to many of the stainless steel versions out there
Thanks! So the reason for going with a starter battery is basically down to the very high current drain for a short period of time. Realistically the thruster is only on for short bursts of 2-5 seconds, so under normal circumstances it never really sees any real discharge. Remember that the diesel is mostly also on meaning that the alternator is also pumping 60A into the battery
After a season or two in the water, did the barnacles stick, or was the polished bronze too slippery? I coated mine with antifoul paint last spring which performed more like barnacle food - totally ineffective. I am debating polishing instead. So, I am interested in how it worked out for you?
Actually there wasn’t much growth at all. However we do sail a lot and the waters we’re in doesn’t normally fuel that much growth anyway. But a polished prop looks good :)
Den er faktisk rigeligt stærk. Jeg regnede på momentet omkring bådens rotationspunkt. Hvis jeg havde valgt en større bovpropel, så ville den større tunneldiameter have flyttet tunnelen tættere på rotationspunktet. Så med en SE40 får jeg ca samme moment som med en SE60, da den lille tunnel kan komme meget længere frem:)
Thanks! So almost all parts are custom made fra raw stock. The tube is a 60mm diameter aluminum tube. All the brackets are from 10mm aluminum plates and some 6mm L-shaped profiles. The actuator is from Amazon, think the brand is called windynation
