Thank you for the wonderful tip. are you using a white liquid pigment? or very fine antler filings? also are you using clear epoxy? or white epoxy? or hide glue?
@@tombrown879 A drop of cyanoacrylate on the tip of a needle. But before that you need to remove all the black color. If you want white, place a very small drop of water on top of the CA. Liquid CA turns white with water.
@@HARM633 What a great work around. thank you for sharing. Would you do a video on carving a line of triangles sometime. With a look at the tool, you are using and angle deg. of blade. i still struggle with this technique and think that my blade angle is too steep that my triangles would have to be very tiny to work. I will defiantly need to try and make a barrel knife sometime. the ones you have created are amazing. Thank you again for your knowledge.
@@tombrown879 I didn't understand about the line of triangles. I have a cutter like yours, I sharpen it at 10-40 degrees. V - shtikhel (graver?). And a set of chisels from 1 to 4 mm from drill shanks. I do small triangles in 3 movements, not in one.
If you'd like to know more. There is a whole Facebook page dedicated to the Trekkers can a couple other Oddball pop up companies that tried to do pretty much the same thing
I will start practicing on some mild steel before I attempt to do this on a knife! It looks easy but I know better😁 Thanks for sharing this technique Tom!💚🪓❤️
I'm glad you like it. Hope you can use it in the future. At some point I will be posting videos of how to do many different styles of file work that I've done over the years. And of course if you're going to do it on a knife I would recommend you do it while it is annealed. Or if you do a differential temper. It May be soft enough to do it after heat treatment.
Try walnut. Get the green outer shells that encase the walnut, boil and simmer and they reduce to a thick dark brown paste. Useful for lots of dying projects.
So, I saw somthing at the 1:09 mark in the video that boggled my mind. My brain tried to puzzle it out as a modified version of a split cross, but it foesn't explain how ot looks like a 360% style snowflake. What are they? How did you make these?
Yes, it is a snowflake. and yes, they are made in the same way as a split cross but with more cuts. I leared to make them years ago. I learned them from my uncle. but have also seen John Bennet and Mystic Mountain forge make them on RU-vid; but i am sure the pattern is out there. Might be able to fine the pattern on " anvilfire.com
I’m Sámi and very impressed with your work. As long as non-Sámis don’t call their work duodji to sell for profit (only sámi artisans can use this term and many imitators will sell cheap replicas of handicraft, taking money from our communities) I don’t *ever* see a problem with people finding inspiration & learning our techniques. The fact that you care to learn of our history, especially in-depth research on bark pigments, make me very happy. Without teaching and learning outside our own community, our techniques might very well be lost someday. I even showed this video to a friend who was curious how our knife holders are carved because all of this was extremely accurate. Hui buorre! Well done! 🫶🏻
@@armaliteslungsentinal7352 just a note. Don't get hung up on steel when you see rope cutting. As I can do this with a unhardened piece of mild steel. It has more to do with edge geometry and how sharp the edge is also the angle of swing. 1095 will hold this edge well. But there are many other superior steels. Such as W2, 01, D2, and 52100 to name a few. Also lots of newer "super steels" used for blade making. If you get the chance. Check out ""Bladesport cutting competitions "". Great test of steel, heat treat and tempering, edge geometry, sharpness, edge holding ability, and user's accuracy.
First the whining, That music was awful in my taste! Second either the video was way too short or the recording speed was too fast! Thanks to you, I have learned something new, how to playback a video on RU-vid in slow-motion. Many very beautiful pieces. I did like the video but can't subscribe because I did that already on another video I watched before.
Philip. Traditionally the inner bark from a silver birch tree was scraped out and turned into a powder to make pigment it is a reddish orange Hue. It can be used dry but is normally process with either linseed oil or sometimes it is boiled down in water or oil until it becomes a slimy paste. When it dries it will stay in there pretty well. I have had pretty good luck with doing the same thing with find charcoal powder. I have seen folks use acrylic paints which can take up to a week or better to dry but leave a very nice finish and will almost completely fill in the carving marks. A lot of the ones that I do are black or other colored 100% India permanent ink.
Thanks. I have been forging and making knifes for over 40 years. Have always loved the Sami Knifes and carving. have been learning from many great carvers over the last 3-4 years. try getting on The "Art of Sami carving" this sight is " only for carving" on Facebook. Many great folks on there. I still have plans to make sore antler carving vids in the future. just busy .
The temp in ND was 34deg.F in January at the time of filming. Normally it is around minus 18degF at this time of year. Wool socks can also be used as mittens. There is an old saying in ND. If you haven't gotten stuck in the snow.....you will. Thanks for taking a look at my video, Give me a thumbs up if you find you liked it. Also let me know if there is anything you would like to see me make a vid of. Thanks. Tom B.
any tight grained wood will look good. loose grain will soak in pigment and your lines may not seem as clear. this will also go for dark woods. unless you can come up with a light colored pigment. if it is a very hard/brittle wood, maybe such as a brittle ebony, then you may have better luck with the prosses that is normally used on the antler. i will hopefully be making a vid about this soon. but the lines are cut in both directions at an angle to make a " V " groove for each line. hope this helps. good luck.
@@tombrown879 I am going to kolrose a kuksa I have just carved as a christmas present, well I will as soon as my hands recover from carving the damn thing seasoned sugar maple is not the most forgiving to work entirely by hand :)
Hi Tom, Thanks for posting this video. Very informative! In it you mentioned showing how you do it in antler - any chance of seeing that video any time soon? :) I carve in bone as well as wood, and have done scrimshaw, which I assume is very similar to kolrosing in antler, except the pigments are typically india ink and lampblack. As there are lots of colours of india ink, you get some interesting choices available to you.
Hopefully I will be making the antler video soon. Either in August or September. I was hoping to get it done earlier this summer but just did not happen
@@tombrown879 Hey Tom, That would be great! I hope to do a little experimenting with some of my bone carvings, as well as a couple of birch boxes and panels that I have on-hand. I think it will work at least as well as the inks, but because it is just oil holding the pigment in the grooves, and you can't burnish the bone in the same way you can wood to close up the grooves, it may not hold as well (or I need to make deeper grooves?).
