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Sterndrives have got to be one of the most stupid inventions of our time. Complicated, expensive, inefficient and dangerous. Outboards or inboards are the way to go.
Best solution is to hook up a simple system that splits the intake with a T, hose bib, and a shut off valve. When you are done running for the day, close the T with the valve so water cann0t get in the intake, hook up a garden hose. flush for a few minitues and you are done. You can ALSO use this as a crash pump. While the engines are running take that garden hose and stick into a flooded bilge. It will suck any flooded bilge dry in 30 seconds. Yea, its a 300 hp bilge pump.
If maintenance of a transom assembly and stern drive is too much for ya, then just get an inboard, and cut out the drive and midsection altogether! No bellows. No gimbal. No u-joints. Simplicity at its finest.
didnt worth worth a crap on ethanol. tried to clean 2 carbs in that dip that sat with ethanol gas in it. looked like someone melted a blue/green jolly rancher in the fuel bowl and corrosion. i had to practically chisel it out
my soon to be new 2015 searay 260 has a 300hp 350 mag and bravo lll drive. the exhaust seemed loud to me and it was suggested that when it comes time to have the bellows replaced, to have the exhaust boot replaced with a full exhaust bellow. there seems to be some concern about this online depending on engine size. what do you think? im looking for the quietest ride possible.
Love taps on the head of rusty bolts..heat....work it loose and tighten in small increments. It would take about 2789 years give or take for pen oil to crawl down into those threads..
Hi. Great video. One qestion. I am changing bellows on my Sterndrive, but I didn't konw about the metal clip on the back on the below (U-joint) as you show in this video. Are they important, or can I continue without it? What is it good for? Hope you can help. BR John
clips form a contact connection between your new worm gear clamps and the aluminum case of the drive. What they do is bond the clamps making them part of your anti corrosion system. Without the clips, your worm gear clamps will corrode and rust away in a hurry and your bellows May come loose. They are important.
didnt worth worth a crap on ethanol. tried to clean 2 carbs in that dip that sat with ethanol gas in it. looked like someone melted a blue/green jolly rancher in the fuel bowl and corrosion. i had to practically chisel it out
But it rarely stops there. As they go, they will find lots of stuff you need to replace. The midsection is often overlooked, but needs just as much maintenance and money as the drive and the engine. Yes, lots of special tools required, but they have gotten really cheap compared to 20 years ago. They would've been impossible to buy, if you were not a marine dealership. You can find most of them on Ebay nowadays. 😁 And a cherry picker (engine hoist) doesn't hurt to have on hand, for pulling the drive safely. That sucker is heavy. And about $8 per pound. You do not want to drop it.
@@todds5956 did your cost of 800 bucks include an intermediate shift cable and trim pucks? If so you should keep that mechanic cuz he damn near works for free
started off ok , but the info was way too basic. tell the people that you need special tools. How did you hammer in the bearing ? who knows ? I don't know any more now than when your video started , other than you have all the extra tools required . Daaaaaaa what a waste of my time.
Wanky graphics :-) Crucial thing is to put the hose clips in the right place so they can be reached to tighten/loosen once the bell housing is back on (and in the way )
It been years since I did a full tear down on a carb till about 6 months ago. I found my hands on a boat that was sitting for 14 years. I cleaned the carb, made some 2 cycle fuel with ethanol. Just recleaned the carb after 6 months and it looked like the last 6 months with new fuel lines and pump and tank was dirtier than after the last 14 years. I'm worried that I'm seeing corrosion starting to form in the carb. It seems like long term I'll need to get ethanol free fuel which is becoming difficult to find
I'd be careful with these barr brand. The flanges are not machined true and the manifolds will lean in towards the engine . This was on my Volvo penta 5.0 liter. Now my harnesses rub on the elbows which was never an issue with OEM. The boots on the elbows are at an angle now, the exhaust temperature sensors are drilled all the way through as well and there is no drain cock like OEM. Next set will be OEM.
Ethanol is a disgrace,gunks motorcycle carbs in 3 weeks,also destroys the diaphragm in fuel petcocks and is death for mechanical fuel pumps,whoever came with that stupid idea should be shot.
Mark IV Spitfires and P 51 Mustangs used Methanol/Water as an antidetonant for superchargers. Ethanol in large percentages is no problem in engines. It is bad run refinery practice of introducing unprofitable solvents into pump gas. Consumer fuel tanks end up as disposal for waste refinery chemicals. Like the batch of ammonium nitrite I got at a fillup once. They used to just drive a tanker down the road at 3am with open valve to dispose of it. Now modern fuel injection ecu engines, do the deed for them. Truth.
American refineries have been blending low profitable poor quality fuels since micro controlled fuel injection became standard. My own tests of early ecu carburetor systems proved spark knock was apparent in low compression engines. Ethanol was the cheapest solution. Modern vehicles Evap systems will not allow H20 in the fuel tank. It is refineries poor quality control and in ground storage at point of retail sale that is the cause of terrible engine petformance. How many times have you EVER seen a guy changing the filter on a petrol pump? I seen it twice in 40 years. Rust, crud, gunk...mmm?
All internal combustion engines can safely and economically use E15, regardless of age. This is proven by Brazil's decades long use of E15, E25, and now E27. They have the same engines as those available in the U.S. In addition, E15 to E30 was used throughout Great Britain from the 1920's to the 1970's. This is also true of other countries such as France and Germany. My 600+ page book "THE ETHANOL PAPERS" has just been published and it's free to read on TheAutoChannel.com website.
A scam made by big oil that eth gas is bad when it is one of the best fuels when used correctly. Used both and build engines and the higher the eth the better. Add some lubricant to it and if carbed drain the bowl once a month or more to remove moisture build up. Xylene toulene benzene diesel kerosine jet fuel are boosters for eth free and are worse than ethanol especially in carbonization of the head.
Good tip I found from doing my own manifolds to keep the gasket in place. Cut the heads off two of the old manifold bolts. Cut a notch in the end of them with a grinder. That notch is so you can un screw the bolt. Thread the cut off bolts into the outer two ends of the block. Slide your gasket on and then your manifold. Install the two middle bolts and snug them. Remove the two guide bolts from the outer ends and install the new ones. Following this procedure makes it SO much easier when you’re doing the job yourself.
Best solution is to hook up a simple system that splits the water intake with a T, hose bib, and a shut off valve. When you are done running for the day, close the T with the valve so water cann0t get in the intake, hook up a garden hose to the bib on the T, open the water and . flush for a few minutes and you are done. YOu can also suck up some antifreeze for more protection. You can ALSO use this as a crash pump. If you have a flooded bilge, while the engines are running take that garden hose and stick into a flooded bilge. It will suck any flooded bilge dry in 30 seconds. Yea, its a 300 hp bilge pump.
