Attempting to repair before throwing away. Giving stuff a new life hopefully by working out how it works and putting back in order. Far from a professional but always willing to learn. A few Wild camps as and when I can fit in. Greatest respect is to my surroundings in this wonderful country we have pleasure in living in.
This is a great video. Many thanks for taking the time to make it. I’ve just done my Hotpoint WML520 sealed drum. Here are some additional things people may want to consider. 1. Do drill the drum weld first before cutting open. I used a 3mm drill and made holes approx every 75mm (3”) I used this hole size to maximise the sealing width for the adhesive (Because the weld width is very narrow - approx 8 to 10mm.) 2. I decided to use self tapping screws instead of bolts to clamp and hold the drum halves together and I ‘pre-tapped’ each hole with a screw before cutting the drum apart to make assembly easier and quicker. Self tappers are cheap and easy and clamped the halves really well after gluing. (But don’t over tighten) 3.Do use a reciprocating saw. (An air saw may be better though.) Be careful not to damage the steel drum inside. Don’t bother using a multi tool, the blade gets too hot and melts the plastic. (As I discovered!) 4. Use the edge of a Stanley knife or similar to de- burr all of the plastic around the weld surfaces. ( the small burrs could get between the surfaces when gluing together.) 5. I got my bearings and main seal from a local engineering supplier. £15. Quality bearings too. Hotpoint didn’t stock bearings for my machine as it was a sealed drum. (But they sell the drum at around £200 😱) 6. Wash all soap sludge from the drum halves etc with a car pressure washer. (It cleans it really well and is quick.) And properly clean the drum spindle until it shines (use rotary wire brush in a drill for the steel but only wire wool or similar on the brass ferrule at the base of the spindle . The brass bit is important, it must be really clean and undamaged because the main seal runs on this. I used car brake cleaner to give the spindle a final wash before assembly and then a good squirt of silicone spray to help it go together. Turn the drum as you push it in the last bit to help the seal go onto the brass ferrule. 7. DO make sure the back of the bearing sleeve/retainer is supported on a block of wood or similar when banging in the bearings. The sleeve is only held in plastic and therefore could be broken free or seriously damaged. Put a longer bit of wood into the metal drum when knocking in the smaller back bearing too. 8. I ended up using white Evo Stik adhesive to glue the drum together. I’m sure the pu Gorilla glue is great, but the Evo has good reviews, is waterproof and has a temperature range of up to 100 degrees C. 9. When applying the glue, just be careful not to put too much on, because you won’t be able to clean or remove the ‘squidge’ inside the drum when assembled. This could potentially cause problems if the squidge breaks off later on and blocks the pump etc. Obviously you need enough glue though to create a proper seal. 10. It’s probably worth considering investing in a new door seal while the drum is out (£20) Much easier to but on the inner spring! My door seal was quite disgusting when I looked in all the nooks and crannies! 11. Give the drum glue the minimum of 24hrs curing time before using. Be patient! Anyway, mine is all done now and working a dream. A lot of effort I suppose, but it should be good for many years to come. Hope this helps!
I can see why you didn’t show how to replace the belt, my husband spent all day yesterday trying to get the cog back into the housing after attaching the belt and no way would it stretch to drop back into the housing.section. Very disappointing video .
My videos are not the best Pamela I don’t claim them to be Any information gained from watching a video has to be better than what I had before dismantling the grass cutter Thanks for watching
Hello, first of all thank you for your video! Because of the installation of the bearings, I wanted to know whether you absolutely have to install ZZ bearings on washing machines/washer dryers, or whether 2HRS bearings would also work. Which ones are better?
In mine was the Hose pipe of the pressure switch broken and the machine flooded my kitchen. So be sure that the hose of the pressure switch is in a position where it can't be rubbed broken. And / or glide a secondary hose over it, just to be sure it can't break by shaking within the machine at a sharp metal👍
Haha how bizarre 😊 I just put a two track mix on to see if RU-vid would allow it It’s not been taken down so that’s good I will get round to doing a further mix with more tracks when I can Thanks for watching and subscribing 👍
oh cool. i come across you from the mower repair vid. thought i would look at your page. then spotted this. i'm into a mixing too mate. i also make stuff. wow hit man and her. thats going back a bit !
cheers for this pal. mine just burnt out a belt i think. i was doing some grass for someone and it was rather long. i didn't see a beer can in the long grass lol and it got jammed in the blade, i could smell burning rubber. i gave it 10 mins and tried it again. motor seems fine but the blade shaft dont turn. so i'm just striping mine down now. this video came in handy for me. nice one!
@@RichDavey was ok to get apart but there had to be 1 rusty screw head . it was the last one i had to get out! . sods law mate lol. the single 1 on its own underneath. had to drill the head off but then i managed to get the rest out.
Hi any tips on getting the bottom pin out it will not budge will i have to drill a small hole on the outer casing and push it in and the seal the hole i just cant get holed if the pin with any too Thank fot any help
Hi Terry If you are talking about the plastic grommet it is tricky without damaging it Try picking it with a sharp tool I damaged mine getting them out
Anyone out there requiring this trim I have listed this on eBay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276420516472?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sYaGfkPeSPW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=sYaGfkPeSPW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hi rich taken photos in the past but never filmed my work could work on time lapse I'd need to wait for the right project then work something out be great if I can get it together thanks mate ill keep you posted
Wow I really appreciate that comment Paul thank you I think it’s worth having a go at these things I do admire the work lead specialist do Very tricky at times I guess
Thanks for replying large box gutters n parapet walls can be challenging as most require on site lead welding and most panels are above code five very heavy as you can imagine all the best keep up the good work
Brilliant Paul That sounds very technical I often marvel at work that has been carried out on church roofs Skilled workers like yourself are diminishing Have you thought of capturing some of your work on film Be good to see 👍😊
Thanks for this. I've got a similar leak I think. How did you actually get the liners out? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Pete (Queensland Australia). BTW, your Fordson looks MUCH cleaner than mine - nice work :).
Hi Pete Thanks for your comment We used bolts and a piece of steel with holes in to ease the liners out The liners had not been in long so were not too difficult to release
Well done on keeping this going! Had a similar issue with a sealed drum, but gave up and bought a new one. Things should certainly be built to be repairable and not require sawing apart!
Sadly front screens are laminated so the don't shatter and fall to pieces. Only side windows will do that. You can see the problem in the videos. I don't think this device will help you escape through the front screen - which may be your only option.
Hi Tony Once you have extracted the bearing take it to bearing supplier for measurement and purchase. Many of the components in household goods are used in different applications. You shouldn’t have a problem finding one. Regards Rich
Thanks for this video. You have just showed us how to completely recondition this lawnmower I have similar issues with mine I will check on/off switch first. Then follow your instructions Good educational video
Great video, I'm in the process of doing mine, I'm finding it hard to get a replacement bearings other than that I have it took apart and the old bearings out, I'll probably have to watch this video a few more times before I get it all back together 👍
on ne frappe pas sur des roulements avec une planche en bois qui risque de laisser des déchets, on ne met pas la machine sur le coté mais plutôt sur l'arrière , et on sort la cuve avec le moteur et le contre poids avant celui du haut ayant été enlevé avant de coucher la machine et le joint de hublot , c'est plus facile d'enlever ces organes comme cela et les remettres avant de rentrer la cuve .
I tried to light mine the other day and it started clicking but then it just stopped, i thought the battery must be flat so i changed it but it still wont click, any ideas what could be wrong 🤔
@@RichDavey thankyou we have taken it apart as you did and all looks the same, spring all looks ok we have got the key lock barrel bit out but it's not just a barrel has that long flat bit attached and don't seem to be able to find anything like it . Thankyou
Going to attempt this myself, thanks for the video, maybe good idea to check motor brushes at same time. Would instant gasket be good to use instead of glue?
Exact same lock but I have a different problem. My key turns but the barrel doesn't engage with the lever on the other side. This also means that the lock doesn't unlock so that I can use the FAP barrel removal key to replace it. Anyone have any ideas short of drilling it out?
