The truck rotors requires a larger center bore on the wheels. A machine shop could resize hub or purchase rotors from scarebird. Let me know when you decide and what you end up with
@@realsteelmotorcars2894 Thanks, but I meant can I keep the stock spindle and buy a bracket and use the s10 rotor and calipers. I've read the s10 calipers are really small which would allow my old stock rims.
@8luggarage not at all, temperature 190 after 20 minutes on and off freeway, hot summer weather. I drilled out the block for the water pump bypass 5/16" hole 2 3/16" in the t-stat and a 5/8" bypass hose going to the intake...it might be overkill, but it runs cool.
Have you heard anything about the timing set rubbing the old style timing cover when adding a double roller timing chain set to the vortec? I had to tap on the inside of the cover so it would clear
@8luggarage This was a budget build, The only thing I spent $ On was the ram jet GM Camshaft that being said, I went with a single timing chain. That's good to know, I've heard stories about double timing chains hitting the cover. Maybe it best to go single. BTW, check out the installed video I just uploaded
Replacing the heater core on my 65 Pontiac Catalina. I completely agree with not necessary to remove the engine compartment cover. It’s necessary to remove the 5 nuts that sandwich the interior cover through the firewall with the engine compartment cover. Also agree that the inner wheel well needs to be moved to gain access to the fifth nut, but I have my inner wheel well completely unbolted and cannot seem to get it to drop out like I see yours in the video. What’s the secret?
Definitely drill the holes in the t-stat. Check out my heater hose bypass video That is an external bypass, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_xcXsvimm3Y.htmlsi=MBZfDDIjKtlIy1QR If you are planning on blocking off the The holes going to the heater hoses you can drill about 6 x 3/16 Holes in the t-stat. What is the block going in ? Do you want the heater to work? If so, do you have a heater control valve on your heater hose?
I’m dealing with the coolant bypass problem right now, do you think I could get away with using the old school pump without drilling the bypass hole in the block but instead just drill the holes in the thermostat?
Running strong, no problems with the drivetrain, I don't get to drive it as much as I should do to fuel costs as well as people wanting to test there cars at stop signs, It holds it's own , the rice rockets don't hook up too well so it's real good off the line. Same with Camero's and chargers,
@@realsteelmotorcars2894 I feel like the 1st generation MSD EFI might be the best throttle body efi. Plus its California compliant. Thanks for the reply!
@armygreenfj3924 Noticeable improvement throttle response over 750 edlebrock carb. I also have a 64 chevelle that is almost a daily driver. If I do efi on it, I would make it my daily...
I’ve been doing to same thing after I blew up my 383, just have a junker in there I’m having problems after I rebuilt the carb it lean bogs unless you run pretty rich I’m putting my old 4 barrel intake on this weekend don’t be lazy folks
I ordered it from Amazon. It's actually for column shifter linkage. I made a couple of bends in it to shorten it. It comes with the lever that is mounted on the transmission. The indent on the handle is O.E. The setup is good I know what gear it is in by feel. I did my other project with the cable and I don't like it
this would work on a 70's 350 4 bolt main sbc yeah? or am i wrong? i have a waterpump hose going to the heater core, and one on the intake manifold, i plan on deleting my heater core too so let me know if im wrong
I know I should of replaced the studs prior to making video. That being said, the stud that come with the rotors are 14m x14.5 so you will need to replace them with 1972 c10 disc brake stud. 1/2 threads
thanks for making this video, i just bought a 64 impala, im looking to swap the powerglide for the 200r4. hoping you can educate me. what is the purpose of the lockup switch? besides moving the crossmember back 6-7 inches, was there any other modifications required for the tranny to bolt up to the motor? i got a 327
I ran that exact set up back in about 1987…. 350 4 bolt with a 327 .010/.010 crank. Fully balanced rotating assembly. Standard bore 10:1 JE’s with 1.94/1.50 double hump heads with screw in studs and guide plates and Manley valves. Solid Isky cam z-28 grind with crane roller rockers. It was in a ‘69 chevelle w/turbo 400 and 4:11 12 bolt posi. It was the most fun car I’ve ever owned. Won a lot of beer money street racing SoCal back in the day. 😁
I know some guys teenagers when we were kids, they put a small journal 283 crank into a small journal 327, thinking they're going to make a lot of RPM, but they're short come was no compression. Yes it would wind up standing still but no power. Even when it had the old fashioned power pack head's. 3 inch stroke to 3.25 in stroke eagles Pistons sitting down in the bore about a 1/8 of an inch.
I’m doing a 1969 Chevelle with manual steering box, I have everything pump wise to convert it like resivior pump, engine brackets, pulley and hoses from OPG. All I’m needing is the steering box, joint rag, pitman arm and those power steering pump hose adapter fittings? do you have the part numbers I could get to finish the swap? or any help would be greatly appreciated
The fitting are from summit racing 605SOL Pitman arm Proforged 103-10041 E-Coated Pitman Arm Amazon Rag joint Lares 205 - Steering Coupling Assembly I think. This is the number
The Pitman arm is the right number I got it from Amazon I got the rag joint from eBay. The number I posted is a I think will work based on 80 Suburban Good luck
Cardone 27-7525 Remanufactured Power Steering Gear 1994 jeep grand cherokee used is also a good choice I was able to get a core refund on my 64 But since you don't have a core. Used junk yard part will work
I'm not sure what part number I used The fitting has 1/2 barb, the hose i'm not sure, but you should be able to ask someone at auto zone to let you go in the back and pick out what you need
Great stuff, I'm changing my 67 Camaro and you answered several questions. My wife wants to drive it and the whole shifter issue mismatch could be a problem. Thanks.
I'm sure once you install the 200r4 transmission in your Camero, you will see that the linkage concern is not that difficult to figure out, Keep in mind that the length of the rod in-between levers will be the same as the original. You just need to replace the lever at the transmission. Chevy nova design is close to what you got going, I did see a kit for nova 200r4 swap linkage online, and I would have run with it Good luck 👍
I must of over looked the notification amazon has ok prices Cobra-Tek - CBK-HZ-6195B-PBK - Round Black Steel Air Cleaner 12" Round Flat Base 5 1/8" Carb Neck Fits
