It is DIY (homemade). Beyma does not make enclosures for sale as far as I know. Thanks for nice words! Here's the building thread: facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.3120659067957930&type=3
Thanks for the information, you are correct! I have changed the text now on all three videos. But it is based on the A-version. The AP version has an amp built in, mine has not. There are no crossovers/filter inside either, I use crown DCI 4/1250N to run them, and the amp has a full DSP to set crossovers and adjustments right. In addition I corrected the horn from 2324 to 2344A (modified).
Never considered AE drivers as for $1260/pair I have to trust in the price only without any data sheet provided. Or they did hide it so good that I was mot able to find it
These speakers are expensive, but worth every penny. I've used them for speakers built for my customers, and also in my own home theater. ;) I found the spec sheet (AE TD 12M8) at once at Google. Here's a link for you: loudspeakerdatabase.com/AE/TD12M-8
@@arvehunsbedt Thank you very much. I found loudspeakerdatabase specs a bit random (compared them with real datasheets and made sure of the uselessness). I wonder have you compared AE drivers with about the same with Faraday's ring? Many other manufacturers use it.
@@sc0or Yes, I have compared the regular version with the apollo version. I did not take measurements of them, unfortunately. But listening carefully, I could not make out any difference. I'm over 60, so maybe my hearing did not pick up the small diffence... I'm told if you can afford the extra cost for the apollo version, go for it. Less distortion and better heat transfer.
@@arvehunsbedt ...and better roll offs as I can hear. Just a natural inductance based LPF without resonances. And that means less high order distortions in an upper freq range which cannot be avoided with XO cause a driver generates them by itself mechanically. It seems to be a good driver. Hm.. PS And thank you for the info about AE vs Faraday's ring comparison. Local stores do not provide a good list of different drivers, so I'll order them online, and it's willing to make a perfect choice from the first attempt )
Hello karlson, thanks! Check my building blog at Hifisentralen, there are some drawings there: www.hifisentralen.no/forumet/threads/diy-j-horn-med-jbl-2220h.105857/
HP is now set at 30Hz, LP at 160Hz. The cabinet is an original JBL 4645. I use a Crown DCI 2/1250N for the the two bass speakers, and they have a very good DSP. I used a lot og time to find the right placement, using REW and Umic2 for measuring and getting good results.
Originally, the first choice was the BMS 4592ND. Since I got hold of the JBL 2446H at a reasonable price, this driver was used. And it works great here in this setup. Then I'll see if there will be a change later sometime. Первоначально первым выбором был BMS 4592ND. Так как мне в руки попал JBL 2446H по приемлемой цене, то и использовался этот драйвер. И это прекрасно работает здесь, в этой настройке. Тогда я посмотрю, будут ли изменения позже когда-нибудь.
CD horns have a unique sound compared to sectoral and multicellular horns, especially if listened to without any add EQ. When I was looking for an appropriate horn for my 288G drivers, I tried a 311-90 and a metal MR94 and wound up with the MR94 because of how it sounded on male and female voices. Now I’m using a 1003b in my new system to see how it sounds across multiple style of music. One 5hing I do believe, the bigger the horn the better the sound quality, using horns that were meant for large venues when used in smaller rooms have lower distortion and sound cleaner to me, of course this is just my opinion. Cool setup
Can I ask please about the crossover design? I've been trying to simulate it in xsim but not going to well at all, 10 dB null where mid meets high. Great build, looking to do very similar.🙂
This coax-driver has a factory-filter I used: en.toutlehautparleur.com/passive-crossover-bms-c8-8-8-ohm-impedance-calibration-2-ways-for-bms-4590-4592-4593-4594-4595-4507-and-4508.html The customer I built this speaker for uses Crown DCI-N amps with built in DSP, and the speaker is set up with that to do minor adjustments over the passive filters.
@@arvehunsbedt Nice, Thankyou.👍🙂 Looking to go passive, no DSP, will keep working at it though. Kind of have it there, just a dip between the mid and tweeter for some reason, tried different variations of polarity etc, but still persists. So the DSP, was that for the 7k peak? Or did you also need to raise the final part of the mid to match the tweeter? I hear it's a very impressive driver, just a tricky one to work with it seems so far. Probably doesn't help I'm using the factory graph's, I always design based on those as a rough guide before committing to a product to see how it Sims. I think those graphs are maybe part of the problem, as they aren't the easiest to work with due to lack of markings, also wondering how accurate they are, as I think they are not showing enough of the roll-off on mid and tweeter which is messing with my mock simulation. I pulled some designs from the internet, and they are horrendous, which leads me to the conclusion that the graphs from BMS are junk for this purpose. Don't suppose you know of any more reliable graph's for this driver?
@@zefrog7482 No peaks and problems around 7K here as far as I know. The speakers has been delevered to the customer and I did not do the final calibration of the system. I've seen the measurements, but since they are not mine I can't publish them here. One thing I can tell you is that there are probably better horns for this driver. For instance, maybe the Beyma TD400N, or JBL 2380A. JBL 2360 is probably one of the best, but it is a large beast... If you are simulating the driver with your own filter design, I got a tip from a friend here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ccqij1DZafs.html
I have building plans on them, yes. These are based on the J-Horns (made in fiberglass), which again are based on a short-version JBL 4550. I have a short building blog on the Norwegian Hifisentralen: www.hifisentralen.no/forumet/threads/diy-j-horn-med-jbl-2220h.105857/ Here is a comparison on hornprofiles between my horns (based on J-horns) and the 4550: www.hifisentralen.no/forumet/threads/diy-j-horn-med-jbl-2220h.105857/post-3690214
Hei Joalin! Thanks for your comment! Yes, you can buy the original J-Horn from Auto-Tech in Poland. It is made of glassfibre, and are pretty expensive! Mine are a slightly larger DIY-copy of them, made of 19mm MDF and BB 18mm plywood. If you want a price estimate on them, please contact me on Messenger: facebook.com/hunsbedttrebygg
Clean build. what do you think of using Coax for the surround/atmos and for the LCR using a woofer of the same brand as the Coax but with a dome mid and a dome tweeter? Is consistency between front and surround speakers so important?
Even if it is the same brand, a regular 3 ways speaker will sound different form a coax. In this case the coax has a compression driver for tweeter. The best is of course going for the same speakers all around. But the most important is to set up everything correctly, distance, timing and levels are important.
@@arvehunsbedt Thank you Arve. I will then go for a 3 Way for the LCR with a Coax for the mid/high, the same as the surround/Atmos. ( I looked at your speaker built on facbebook, very nice job )
Midrange is somewhat nasal, highs sibilant and mid bass is much too exaggerated. I'm sorry but it's what I hear at least from this youtube upload. Maybe in person it's much better. Most people don't hear speaker colorations as keenly as I do. I've been to audio shows where people are raving over some speaker's sound but I will often hear bothersome colorations that they do not pick up on. I'm sorry I don't mean to be overly critical.
I DO NOT have any professional recording equipment. All is done with my Mobile phone, a Huawei P20Pro. The microphone is tiny, and give colorations on the sound recorded, of course. I can assure you, it sounds much better iin real life. ;)
Sounds amazing, but WHY have you done this to me?!?! :p I haven't even received the 4675's I scored off eBay and now I'm introduced to the J-horn. Great work. O_O Where are crossing everything over, if you don't mind my asking?
If I remember correct, it is roughly looking like this: 2241: 30 Hz up to 160Hz, 2220: 150Hz up to 550, 2446: 550Hz up to 18kHz. Fairly steep filters at the crossovers. I use Crown DCI amps with full DSP, that made it easy to set up crossovers and EQfilters in Audio Architect.
Each 20,3 litre sealed encosure has one speaker. Two speakers are stacked on the video, to get one up from the floor for measuring with UMIC1 and REW. In my hometheater four of them are mounted in the ceiling over the seating-area. It is DIY all the way... ;) Here are pictures from the building on my FB-site: facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.5077075528982931&type=3
Really nice! So I looked up the speakers but couldn’t find anything similar to what you have. Did you custom make the horns? Can you tell us more about it, they’re so killer! I’d love to create something similar
Thanks! Yes, the midbass-horns under the 2360 are custom made by me. They are a modified copy of the fibreglass J-horns. Here is a building thread on the Norwegian Hifisentralen-forum: www.hifisentralen.no/forumet/threads/diy-j-horn-med-jbl-2220h.105857/
No, this one was satin black originally. And I'm not shure if they also came in the JBL-blue. But my customer wanted me to redo them with blue baffle plate. And I also like them this way. :)
This speaker has no deep bass at all, it is usable down to about 60Hz. Originally (JBL 4726A) it had at frequency responce from 70-17000Hz. It has a very good midbass from 100-300Hz! My cabinet is a bit larger than the original one, so it goes a bit lower. But you have to have a low end speaker with it, for instance an 18" sub. These are active, with no filter inside the cabinet. I use a Crown DCI 4/1250N amp with them. I think the crossover was set to around 1400Hz between the woofer and horndriver. :)
@@arvehunsbedtThanks. I've got the 2206H and the 2344a but I worry about the midrange performance of the 2206H and wonder if I should insert the 2123H (which I also have) in between them for this reason. This way the 2206H would play midbass only (up to about 200-300Hz) and the horn could be crossed higher to relieve the CD a bit. I've got 2245H for below. Any opinion?
Well, I'm sorry about that! It is recorded with my Huawei P20Pro phone-mic, and that recording really doesn't give any speaker high quality sound. But when listened to through some good earphones, the sound is not too bad, considering the equipment used here.
haha my friend , its impossible to have a real experience of any speaker via youtube , plus his recording , plus youtube compression , plus your speakers
Fantastic. I have a pair of those, but they have a huge JBL logo on their sides and are actually black. However i would like them to look more vintage like yours, with wood veneer and blue fron face.
